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Everything posted by drumdude96

  1. I buy all my music stuff from Sweetwater. Excellent customer service, quick and free shipping. It's not 2-day shipping, but good enough for me. Their financing options are awesome as well. 48 months same-as-cash?! Yes please, and thank you! They are hard to beat. Guitar Center can suck it!
  2. I would also be weary of buying grips on Amazon or Ebay. WAY too many counterfeits on there. Only authorized retailers if you want to make sure what you're actually getting.
  3. As far as a gapping issue, the only problem I see is the lack of a fairway wood between driver and utility iron. I don't see your clubs as a random assortment of stuff. It looks like the bag of a low handicap player. Now whether or not you are a low capper is the question. Do you have the skills to take advantage of your clubs, or do you need to be put into more forgiving options? That is the million dollar question. You say you're improving but have lost a bit of swing speed. Maybe just some new shafts would do the trick, although I doubt PX 5.5 is too much shaft for you. There are so many variable here to address. So yes, get out and play, and take note of what you really like and dislike about what you have. Be REALLY specific, and then we can go from there to figure out what, if anything, needs to change.
  4. Grips may be readily available right now at your local shop, but when they run out, they're gone. It is 100% supply and demand. When Golfworks is out of nearly every Golf Pride grip, that's a very bad sign.
  5. If you really want to stop buying stuff, get off this site. Seriously. Nothing gives you the itch more than reading about all the shiny new stuff and how great it must be. If a crack addict is around a bunch of people smoking crack, guess what's going to happen?!
  6. I'm obviously a drummer, and that ain't cheap either! Neither is bass fishing, at least when you do it like I do. About 24 nice rod and reels and several tackle boxes full of thousands of dollars worth of lures. At least I sold the boat that I wasn't using because I took up golf. A therapist once told me I have an addictive personality. I'd say she was right!
  7. Yeah, BIG difference between 12 feet and 12 yards! It sounds like the 223's will be a great fit then. Do it!!!!!
  8. I have never stopping buying. It is a bit of a sickness. But I realized that for me, the newer irons are no better than older stuff in the forged player's CB category. So I sold all my newer irons and have bought a few sets of older forgings that are still in great condition. My gamers are MP 30's, and I have a nice set of Hogan Edge and a really nice set of Adams a4 forged irons that I just got. Compared to new sets, they might as well have been free. And I know I'll play just as well with them as anything new, maybe even better. I had a set of i210's and frankly, they weren't that great for me. Too much bounce. I bought several older Titleist fairway woods last year in the 904f and 906f lines. They are incredibly good woods. And CHEAP now! I buy wedges when I get good deals on them, because they wear out a lot faster than other clubs. I got a brand new Wilson Staff Model 60 degree for only $60. It's good to be a lefty sometimes. I got a matching 56 degree for only $75 I think, new as well. They are still in the plastic and will get used when my T20's lose their mojo. The newest club in my bag is a SIM2 Max driver that I got for $330. I haven't even got to hit it yet, so hopefully it lives up to the hype. It's fun to be able to change things up in the bag, or just have multiple full sets like I do. It may not be the greatest thing to do as far as being consistent, but it at least keeps me from getting bored with a set. When I want a change, I just grab a different bag and head out the door. I think the Adams bag I'm putting together is going to be REALLY good. Super S driver, Super LS 3 wood and 19 degree hybrid, a12 Pro 23 degree hybrid, a4 forged 5-PW, MB2 50* GW, and MacGregor MT Pro forged 56 and 60 (not really loving any of the Adams specialty wedge offerings for lefties). Gonna be a fun year. Especially because I left the CC and am rejoining the muni where all my friends are. I realized the people you play golf with are more important than the course you play on. Bye-bye snobs!
  9. Yeah, they're completely out of stock. Hence the reason I said you CAN'T get them right now. I'm not saying nobody carries them. Nobody HAS them right now.
  10. That sounds pretty good to me. The spin is maybe a touch high, but not ridiculous. Are you ripping balls back off of greens? And your peak height is very good. Dropping that down to like only 85 feet doesn't sound like a great idea to me. Unless you play in a very windy area with no trees to hit over on occasion. I am a high ball hitter myself and I can tell you, it is an asset. I used to think I hit the ball too high, until they started putting Pro Tracer lines on TV. The pros hit the ball very high as well, unless they are hitting a knock down shot. If you can keep the spin around 7000-7500 AND get the peak height back up around 100 feet or so with the 223's then you have a winner.
  11. Totally agree. Why is it you're looking to change? You have a full bag of player's clubs. If you're a total hack and can't play worth a damn with them, then yes, you should probably get some clubs more suited to your abilities. But if you play well with what you have, we're all kinda scratching our heads as to why you want new stuff. No forged player's CB is going to perform much different from the Bridgestones. You have an awesome driver, and it's doubtful anything on the market will be much of an upgrade as long as it fits you well. Your utility iron is damn good, provided you have the chops to swing it properly. So yeah, you really need to assess what it is you don't like about each club and let us know those reasons as well so that we can get you steered in the right direction. Otherwise, you're probably going to spend tons of cash and get little to no benefit, other than the thrill of "new stuff".
  12. Less spin and a WAY lower trajectory with the 223's? Sounds like you won't be holding greens too well with that combo. I would hold my horses before ordering that set, or you may be sorely disappointed with your new sticks when you actually get them on the course.
  13. Maybe you could send them in to PING for the Hovland treatment. They ground a s#!t load of bounce off of his i210's to help them get through the turf and get a better trajectory.
  14. This is simply an issue of supply vs demand. Golf Pride grips are in extremely short supply right now. They are on backorder almost everywhere. You CAN'T just go order Tour Velvets and install them yourself. The fact that PXG has any on hand is surprising, and those that want them are going to have to pay a premium to get them. The upcharge isn't ridiculous or stupid, it's simple economics.
  15. Those PING containers that fell off the cargo ship were recovered. A bunch of golf bags were damaged, but the club components were saved.
  16. Hopefully not. I'm tired of the overcrowded golf courses.
  17. I though I read somewhere that the TA 845's were the best selling irons of all time. I can't find any info on the interwebs right now, but I wonder how close it is between the Eye 2 and the 845. I know they both sold tons of sets, and rightfully so.
  18. I bought a Sim2 Max at the end of last year for $330 with a Smoke Green 70. Slightly used, but in good shape. That's still more than I wanted to spend, but hopefully the performance warrants the price.
  19. This. If it's mostly for full swings, go with the set wedge. If using it for shots around the green, get a specialty wedge, as most set gap wedges don't have grinds that facilitate manipulating the face very much.
  20. #1: Yes. A 34 degree 845 will hit the ball just as far as a 34 degree Callaway Apex, as long as they are built with the same shafts to the same length and swingweight. #2: I don't hit that old 7 iron like crap, that's why it's in the bag. The only area that new tech gives you "more" distance is in off-center strikes. And it's not really "more" distance, it's just losing less distance compared to a less-forgiving iron. When hit in the sweet spot, that old 7 is going to hit the ball just as far as that same-lofted new club. It is 100% myth that "new technology" magically makes the ball go farther with irons. The manufactures have strengthened the lofts to make it appear that way, and most people (who are lemmings) have drunk the Kool-Aid. And no, the new tech does not make the ball fly so much higher that they had to strengthen the lofts to counteract it. That is total BS. How high the ball will fly is directly correlated to how much swing speed you have and the delivered loft at impact. They can't move the CG of an iron that much to where it would amount to a hill of beans in terms of trajectory. Sure, they can change it a little, but it's not going to make one iron reach a peak height of 100 feet and another only go to 80 feet. It's not happening. So to sum it up, yes the new tech will help you on mishits. If you hit the ball on the toe a lot, there are irons that will lose less distance when struck out there than some older stuff. But that's about it. A fat shot will still be a fat shot, a shank is still a shank, and when hit on the screws they aren't any better. And one area where they are worse is distance control. That's why you don't see pros playing the "high tech" multi-piece flex face irons, except in the long irons, of course. Most pros are using a one-piece forged iron or a similar cast iron like the i210, which could have easily been forged because it's a pretty plain and simple design. One-piece forgings give you exceptional distance control and workability, which is why the pros use them. And they generally aren't ridiculously strong lofted either. These irons have crept a little stronger over the years, but not by much compared to the "high tech" clubs like P790's and the like. Most true forgings have a PW around 46 degrees, which isn't too bad considering 20 years ago a PW was 47 or 48 degrees. A PW is NOT 43 or 44 degrees, that is a 9 iron that says "PW" on it. Rick Shiels just did a review of the new Stealth irons from TM. They go from 18.5 degree "4" iron to 43 degree "PW". That 4 iron is really a 2 iron and will be unplayable for the vast majority of the target market. Likewise, the ridiculously strong PW will cause people to need 5 wedges at the bottom of the bag, which is insane and can completely throw off the top end of the bag. In summary, it's a stupid practice and the manufacturers who perpetrate it are all doo-doo heads.
  21. The number one determining factor for how far an iron is going to hit a ball is the loft, plain and simple. The reason a new 8 iron hits the ball farther than an old 8 iron is because the new one is really a 7 iron (or in some cases a 6 iron). I've had lots of newer irons with all the technology, and loft for loft there is basically no difference in distance when compared to older clubs. The tech definitely helps with forgiveness, but not really with distance, at least when the clubs are hit in the sweet spot.
  22. I just buy them with a black finish to start with. I have a set of black onyx AMT Tour whites and they were powder coated from True Temper. They do the same thing with the DG Tour Issue onyx wedge shafts. I believe KBS actually plates their black shafts. Not sure if you could powder coat a set of chromed shafts or not. The plating may need to be removed first. Whatever the case, it sounds like way too much time and effort to mess with.
  23. Yep, I have definitely scratched a wedge face or two on accident.
  24. KBS 610 is similar in weight, but definitely quite a bit different in profile. Still a great wedge shaft though in my experience. The Hi Rev should also be close to the same weight.
  25. If you get a sharpener with a carbide blade it will work just fine on cast.
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