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Everything posted by drumdude96

  1. To hell with it! I'm just going to order a set of Recoil 110 F5s and go straight in with them. I could always soft step them later on if need be. Thanks for all the help guys!
  2. Sounds like maybe soft stepping the F5 might be the ticket then.
  3. Hmm. What about the Recoil 110 F5? Closer to S300, or is it just too different a profile?
  4. One more question: how does the Recoil 110 in F4 flex compare to Dynamic Gold S300? I've always had great success with S300, even though my iron distances would put me in X100. I just prefer the feel and ball flight of S300 over X100.
  5. Good info. I still like DG, but Tour V is really good. And the fact that I can get the regular Recoils from Golfworks is a big plus. And I could always go with Steelfibers if I wanted something that played like DG.
  6. I currently have 3H, 4H, 5H, and 6H in the bag, all PING G25. The 3H has the stock graphite shaft, the 4, 5, and 6 all have Tour V 110. My irons have the Tour V 120, so I used the 110 in the hybrids just to reduce weight a bit. I find the hybrids are quite a bit easier to hit than the longer irons, and that is saying something considering the irons are G25s. That 6H is freaking fun to hit, let me tell ya. I did try a set of the Cleveland Launcher HB Turbo irons, but they weren't for me. I had them from 4 iron all the way through GW, and found I just hit the G25s better. I prefer a traditional hybrid head shape, and it was just weird looking down at the Clevelands. I also hit the Cleveland long irons lower than the G25 hybids, which I did not like. I am in the group that has plenty of swing speed to hit the longer irons, but I just prefer the ease of use and confidence from hitting hybrids.
  7. I'm looking at the regular Recoils. They don't stock the protos on Golfworks. I guess before I make a $400+ mistake I should buy one or two in F4 and F5 to make sure which flex I like better. There's not a place around me where I can test them out, so experimentation is the only way for me to try them.
  8. There is a very good reason: the $80 a shaft price. Recoils are $45 each, which is much easier to stomach. Nowhere are the TGi $50 that I can find.
  9. I hit the Tour V 120 just fine, but I ain't getting any younger, either. I could easily play the Tour V in the 110 stiff and not have any problems with them. Maybe I would turn the ball over a bit more than I do now, but right now it's not a whole lot anyway. The G25s tend to fly pretty straight. So the Recoil 110s would probably be a better fit then. I think I'll still try them in F4 instead of F5. I want something I can keep in the bag for at least a few years, and I don't see me needing extra stiff for a whole lot longer, since a neck surgery may not be all that far off, unfortunately. I'll put that off for as long as I possibly can, believe me. I think I'll just go ahead and order a set of the 110 Recoils then while they are still in stock. It's not exactly a cheap experiment, but it's still a helluva lot cheaper than buying a new set of irons. About the only thing I'm interested in is the i210 anyway. All the super-jacked lofts in most other sets makes me want to puke. Seriously, a 24* 6 iron and a 42* PW?! WTF?!
  10. Hey guys. I've been playing and building clubs for over 20 years, but I have only built one set of irons for myself with graphite shafts, and they were too dang stiff. My current irons are G25s with KBS Tour V 120 X straight in. I like the Tour V shafts, but I have been getting the usual aches and pains for a guy in his early 40's and I want to jump on the graphite bandwagon. I really want to try the Recoil 95 in stiff, but I'm worried that might be too big a reduction in weight. What do you guys think?
  11. Yes, by volume. In my experience, Part A and Part B can have different weights per volume, so measuring by weight isn't advisable IMO. Not saying this is true for ALL 2-part epoxies, but several that I have used. I use epoxy from the 4oz or 8oz bottles and put each part in a 20mL syringe for accurate dispensing. For one or two clubs, I'll dispense 1mL of each and that is plenty. But I always get accurate measurements from the syringes. Sure beats the eye ball method. I also use the medicine measuring cups sometimes if I'm doing a set of irons and a larger volume is needed. Never had a problem measuring that way either.
  12. I broke a G25 a few years ago that was way out of warranty. They still gave me $100 off on a G400 Max. They are top-notch.
  13. With Rahm out this telecast is beyond boring. I'd rather watch flies procreate than this snoozer of a tournament.
  14. Two degrees should be no problem to bend, especially if Callaway is doing it. I imagine getting them reshafted will save you quite a bit of money over buying a new set. And with the new shafts and correct lie angles, they will still be like a new set to you. Give Callaway a call tomorrow and see what they can do for you.
  15. Glad to get the updates. Looks like I'll either reshaft my G25s or order a set of i210 with Recoil 95s. Thanks guys.
  16. Maybe, but I figure TT would just jack up the prices and pass the cost on to the customer like they have in the past. DG were only $10 each 20 years ago. Now they are about $24, not to mention the TI pricing. But that is still in line with any other premium steel shaft.
  17. Not sure about the whole bore depth issue, but if the hosel is open to the inside of the head, you definitely need a hosel bore plug so that epoxy doesn't get inside the head and cause a rattle. Without seeing it in person, I'm not sure what to do about the short insertion depth.
  18. Looking at pics of the Epic Speed woods, they don't appear to have a short hosel. I don't see why they would make the hosel bore shorter than normal.
  19. Is there an opening at the bottom of the bore that goes into the inside of the head?
  20. I reshafted a Rogue 7 wood recently and though the fit was a smidge loose, it was a standard depth bore. Have they made them shallower since the Rogue?
  21. Callaway: Epic Flash, Rogue, BBA 816 DBD, GBB 2015, BBA 815, X460 Tour, Diablo, Big Bertha 2004, Steelhead III, Steelhead Plus, ERC II, Steelhead TaylorMade: R11s, R11, R9 Superdeep TP, R7 Quad TP, R580, Ti Bubble 2 Cobra: SS 427, SZ 440, Speed Pro X S, F7, F7+ Titleist: 905T, 905R, 983K Nike: SUMO2, SUMO Adams: BUL, Fast 12 LS, Super S, Super LS Cleveland: Classic Tour 310, SL 290 PING: G15, G25, G400 Max Bang: CryoForged (I think that's what it was called) Wishon: 919THI Snake Eyes: Viper XT, Viper Ti4, Viper Ti 460, Viper MS, Fire Forged, Fire Forged Compressor, 600T AST steel-shafted driver, AST graphite shafted driver Northwestern POS Palmer POS Wilson Laminate wooden driver Spalding Wooden Driver Hagen Wooden Driver Probably several I've missed, but this is definitely the bulk of them
  22. Can you post a pic? I have no idea what we're dealing with without seeing it.
  23. This is a valid point, except that True Temper manufactures DG shafts in the USA, so there is no waiting on shipping from overseas. They are made from American steel in an American factory by American workers.
  24. That shelf is the counterbore to accept the collared ferrule. Have you prepped the shaft tip yet? Sounds like it is actually a pretty tight fit if it won't go beyond the counterbore.
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