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  1. I hear you both. Trying to find those shafts that work, but 90% of the effort is going into the swing (whether effort means trying harder or less hard!). Hopefully the improved mechanics will lead to improved results soon. And Howard Jones, thank you again for your post. As my spin axis has tended to be left on my best swings lately, my pro came to a similar conclusion. I did hit flatter clubs lower and straighter when we were experimenting, even though they had lighter, more flexible shafts. I'm going to bend these flatter and see what comes back. My pro guessed 2 degrees, but I'm going to redo your impact analysis to tune that in, as my spin axis has been off by less than 6 degrees. Hopefully that will be the trick.
  2. Hi all, thanks for your responses back in late October. Here's an update: I couldn't find many shaft/head combos I wanted to try at the store, so my club-builder made me 7 irons with an X100 and a ProjectX 7.0 in them. I got them this week, and these actually launch higher than both the S300 my pro lent me, and even an old, off-the-rack driving range club I found at the simulator. They're just as high to even a touch higher than my existing stiff C-Tapers, with what feels like more spin due to a slight ballooning flight. 7-iron launch angles: Pro's S300 and driving range club: 16.5. Stiff C-Taper: 17.5 New X100, ProjectX 7.0: 17.5-18.5 Pros I'm trying to emulate: 14-14.5 (based on Trackman's website) Note that this ignores any variance between TrackMan and my simulator, and grass vs mat. My club-builder's hypothesis is that perhaps TruTemper has softened the shafts to appeal to egotistical consumers that order them too stiff, even if the butt frequency is still the same. His only suggestion is to hard-step them by putting a 8 or 9 iron shaft in the 7 iron, but I worry that it can't make a huge difference. I asked him about DG X7s, which he said he had seen but not worked with, and guessed that if they're softening X100s, then X7s could be the real X100s of old. I trust him, but I also worry that he may be missing a nuance or technique since my speeds are unusual, and hate to continue playing the guessing game over many months. I haven't been able to measure spin axis variance, which at the end of the day is our highest priority, but presume they'll be correlated. Any other ideas I should pursue? Thank you!
  3. Thank you all again for sharing your insight and expertise! Some brief responses/clarifications/questions: Thank you again for all your insight. I'm happy being more knowledgeable, but unfortunately now even less confident that the next fix will definitely be the right one. :)
  4. Thank you so much for the responses so far. Stuart G, thanks for your detailed response - my responses below. One point I think I didn't explain clearly is that it didn't seem like my swing was inconsistent, but the swings wouldn't equate to the results. A typical swing could be something like 1.2 in to out, 0.6 open, 0.6 closed to path, spin axis 4.3 (I think in either direction, but could have been in the direction of the small "miss"). Does clarifying this point change your opinion at all? Thanks again.
  5. I'm a frequent lurker, infrequent poster that would appreciate this board's insight. Current set: Miura CB 501s with KBS C-Taper (120g), frequency matched. Driver is TaylorMade R11S with a Matrix Black Tie shaft. Situation: 32 years old, peaked 5 seasons ago at a +2. My driver swing speed is 124. I'm currently a 4, and was an 8 at my worst. My game deteriorated a few years ago, so I saw a pro for a year that did more damage than good, and I've been working with one of the more renown pros in my area for the 3 years since. Around 3 years ago, I also switched from a mostly-off-the-rack set to this frequency matched, customized set. I had KBS Tour 90s (103g) until they started bending from hard ground impact while my swing was transitioning. We replaced them with the 120g C-Tapers in an attempt to lower my launch. Objectively, my swing is much better. I relied on wrist timing as a +2 and have shot 89 and 69 on consecutive days. Now, divots are shallow, clean, and predictable. Numbers are tight. Despite a swing that my new pro is very pleased with, results haven't followed, so we did a Trackman session: Issue 1, launch angle: My 7 iron launches at 20 degrees. Trackman analysis and pro comps suggest I should be around 12-14. Spin rate is good in the low 5000s. However, due to the height, my distance control is poor, I am very susceptible to any wind, and I can lose 20 yards on a 7 iron. This issue seems to get worse into shorter clubs (distance control has been a big issue PW and below, while my 4 iron and driver launch well). Issue 2, spin axis: On most swings I am within 1.5 degrees on my path angle, face angle, and face-to-path. Despite this, my spin axis can be off 4-5 degrees in either direction. Half-degree misses are suddenly 20-30 yards off-line, past the trap or in the trees. Pro hypothesis: My shafts are too light, recommends at least 130g. He also suspects that CB 501s are not a good match for my swing (not enough perimeter weighting, perhaps? also encourages a higher launch?). I hit a few with a Taylor Made P750 Tour Proto, and although the demo shaft caused spin rates to jump over 7000, the spin axis stayed within 2 degrees on similar misses. He gave me a P750 head to install in my shafts to try out, as well as a TaylorMade M2 driver head "straight off a tour van" head to replace my old R11S, a model he thought never provided much forgiveness. Clubbuilder hypothesis: After describing my symptoms over the phone, he said he has had this problem before, and from experience, thinks switching me to Dynamic Gold S300s will cure all my ills. He doesn't think I'll see much benefit from switching heads (iron or wood). I have an appointment with him for a month from now (he is very popular and far away from me, requiring a weekend trip), where he'll see a few swings and build a club or two to the new specs, but right now is defaulting to S300s with the same frequencies. Since I have a month to wait and am still very uncertain, I wanted to request the expertise of this forum. I find both my "experts" very knowledgeable, but it's hard to be sure when my clubbuilder is so confident in a third set of shafts, and my pro (a TM player) may be biased toward his own brand, even when he doesn't stand to benefit monetarily. If I'm going to spend time and money building new clubs for testing, and potentially replace my bag (again), I want to get all the opinions I can, as I fear something else may still be at play. Thank you so much!
  6. Thanks again for the suggestions. Quicksilver was booked with outings and tournaments all weekend, so I ended up playing Lindenwood Sunday morning. It ended up working out for the best, since there were heavy thunderstorms that hit most of the area but somehow missed Lindenwood. I found the course solid. Good conditions, greens deceptively difficult. I had to play Gold/Blue, so it was a little short, but certainly a place I'd return. I preferred Blue to Gold, so I'd probably aim to do Blue/Red as you suggested if I return. One frustrating thing was that they refused to make any reservations for singles; I had to show up and take my chances with there being an open spot. It ended up working out fine (especially given the threatening forecast), but it was a bit of a turnoff that even the afternoon before they were unwilling to slot me into an opening or give me any guarantees. I understand if you don't want to book a single into an open foursome, especially far in advance, but it seems a bit restrictive as is.
  7. Thanks for the suggestions, guys! I'm happy to drive a half hour, even 40 minutes if it means the quality of golf is much better, I'm just trying to avoid the hour drive each way that a lot of courses that I look up seem to be. Hey, looks like Oakmont is 28 minutes away, maybe I'll see if they have some last minute tee times
  8. Some unexpected family duties are taking me to Pittsburgh this weekend (my girlfriend's mother was admitted to the hospital, so we're driving out there from NYC to take her back home and spend a couple days getting her set up). I'm hoping to squeeze in a round Saturday afternoon between shopping trips and chores to allow them some mother/daughter time. I see a lot of public courses on GolfNow and other sites with openings, so I need some direction. I played Totterridge last time out there and enjoyed it, but as I'm staying SW of downtown in Beechview, that's an hour drive and a little far to return to. I'm hoping to get a quick afternoon round in without the course being too crowded. Any recommendations? Thanks.
  9. If you're willing to take a slightly longer drive, head up to Mesquite and play Wolf Creek. One of the most fun courses I've ever played, and I've probably played it 10-15 times over the past 10 years. There are actually a few very good courses out there (Oasis, Falcon Ridge, Conestoga). Coyote Springs is also in that direction (in the absolute middle of nowhere--they intended to build a community around it and then housing crashed), but I found it similar but inferior to Paiute Wolf. Also, if you play Wolf Creek, the best dinner in town is Gregory's at Eureka. Fine dining in an otherwise shoddy locals casino, which means $100/pp cuisine for $30/pp.
  10. Thanks for the responses, everyone! Sounds like sand/debris on the clubface + ball impact will wear out the grooves much more than just ball impact. Good to know! I will make sure the clubs and ball are especially clean before I start a practice session, not that I wouldn't do that anyway! [quote name='autisticlove' timestamp='1400174284' post='9301931'] I usually alternate between thin, heavy and middle contact shots. In my experience this prevents wear 3x longer, but your mileage my vary. [/quote] Great idea! I've already been practicing this! [quote name='dplasters' timestamp='1400174873' post='9302051'] I'm trying to come into this as open minded as possible... What's the mindset here? You want to minimize any damage because of resale? Because you're OCD? You paid a lot for them and you hate to see them damaged? They are golf clubs. They get scratched. I can promise your car will always be in perfect shape as long as you don't actually drive it. So isn't a lot of the advice here going to basically be - "Don't actually play golf. Stay inside on plastic mats." Oh god and bunkers.. [/quote] Not really. After 3 seasons, would I rather they look and play like I've been using them for 4 years, or just 2? I'm not going to *not* use them ever out of fear of wear, but if there are simple things I can do to make them last longer, why not? [quote name='dmbgolfer' timestamp='1400175723' post='9302211'] Why do you beat balls into a net without caring about the precise results? What is the point of that, other than to ingrain bad habits? [/quote] I say "precise" as in, if some tape slightly modifies the spin rate and distance the simulator says I hit the ball, I really dont care. No simulator I've used has gotten my distances accurate anyway, so if I'm practicing I'm just worried about making pure contact, straight, with the desired trajectory.
  11. Hi all, tonight I pick up my first set of truly custom-built clubs. As I live in a city, most of my practice is indoors on a simulator. Since these clubs aren't cheap and I want them to last, I'm looking for a way to reduce the wear on my clubs as I pound balls indoors, where I don't care about precise results in that environment. Any tips or tricks to increase the longevity of my clubs and keep them looking newer for longer? E.g., will putting tape on the face help the grooves last longer? Thanks!
  12. My golf swing needs help because duck-hooking every high-pressure drive is taking years off my life!
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