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Bobalu

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  1. I purchased a new set of Nippon NS Pro Tour 120 Stiff Taper Tip (.355) that were "Tour Issue" and obtained from a Tour Van. They are purportedly a custom "Frequency Matched" set intended for Pros. Is this possible to do with Taper Tip shafts, given a large pool of shafts to test, or do you think these were likely just "weight sorted" with a much tighter tolerance than the usual OEM shaft sets? What do you think?
  2. It's easy to remove corks to tweak SW. I found a standard length alignment stick that had a hollow core. I cut off the tip of a small diameter sheet rock type screw with a bolt cutter, and then twisted the screw tip into the hollow core at one end using pliers and epoxy on the screw base. To remove a cork in the shaft, place this extractor rod all the way down the shaft until the cork is felt. Then twist the screw into the cork, and pull it out. I use the smaller corks that Mitchell golf sells for my steel shafts and they have always worked great. The small corks are much easier to place all the way down with the steel ramrod and are easier to remove later if needed. The cork is extracted without fragmenting into pieces. I then add or remove a measured amount of tungsten powder and re-cork. You can also probe the depth of the epoxied shaft with the screw/stick to see exactly where the Mitchell powder will end up. I've tweaked the way I build over the years to be more precise. I use air to install grips, so they are very easy to remove. This is handy because I build an iron with the exact wraps I want, blow on the grip, and measure the exact baseline swing weight. I then place a measured weight of lead tape (typically 2 grams for 1 swingweight) on the outside of the hosel where i know that the tungsten powder will end up. Then check the revised swing weight. I usually take the club off the swingweight scale at this point and hold it near address position to verify that the new swingweight feels right. If everything feels good, I blow the grip off, pull off the tape to access the shaft butt, and pour in the desired weight of tungsten + cork. Then quickly redo the grip tape and blow on the grip. It helps to originally build an iron about .5 to 1 swingweight less than desired using brass tip weights. If the original swingweight of the iron is too high, you obviously would have to rebuild the iron to get the swingweight where you want it.
  3. As a point of builder's pride, I really focus on getting the ferrule flush with the top of the hosel with as tight a gap as possible. I preset every ferrule using the actual iron head while using a brass tip weight if needed in the shaft tip. Using special Golfworks clamps while the epoxy cures helps a lot and keeps the shafts, ferrules, & hosels centered. https://www.golfworks.com/golf-mechanix-head-to-shaft-drying-clip/p/gm1035/
  4. I learned a great tip from GolfWRX's Nessism about quickly prepping the inside of tight ferrules (Thanks!). Use a single pass with a Golfworks .370 hand reamer through the ferrule. You can do a second pass if needed, but keep the ferrule fit fairly tight on the shaft. Collared ferrules generally stay in place well from the epoxy build. Works perfectly and just takes seconds to prep a ferrule with rubber pad inserts in a golf-specific vise.
  5. Use collared ferrules, as they really help center the shafts. Hosel insertion depth to the inner hosel ridge where the shaft tip stops is 1.25” on both the standard Apex Pro 19 irons as well as the Apex Pro Dots. The external hosel lengths are slightly different by design. I have built both of these. No differences on build.
  6. Callaway Apex Pro 19 irons can have a similar drilled out area in the bottom of the hosel below the shaft tip insert shelf. You can add weight with tungsten putty if you also use a brass tip weight to keep the shaft tip free of tungsten putty. The putty is commonly sold online or at hobby/toy stores (Hobby Lobby) for "weighting" those Boy Scouts mini wood racer cars. Just roll the putty into a small ball, weigh and adjust, then drop it into hosel bore. Gently use a pushrod or stick to pack it a little in the lower bore after dry fitting. Easy to remove- stays semi soft. Dry fit then finish build. The epoxy will fill the remaining space. You can still use cork and tungsten powder to fine tune SW, but it is not hard to get it right. The tungsten putty/epoxy is very easy to drill out if needed later (cobalt bits always seem to work best). IMO, If you did nothing with the hollow cavity at the bottom of the hosel, it wouldn't make any difference. Tom Wishon built small "weight" cavities in the bottom of his iron bores. There was no difference in performance or feel if the cavity was filled with a Wishon weight, or left empty.
  7. Anyone catch which iron Tiger used to hit that super high shot from the 10th fairway bunker? Yardage?
  8. I've just seen this post and can do it tomorrow for you when I get to work. Should hopefully have an answer for you in 12-14 hours time �� You're going to measure with grips installed?
  9. Blue Painter's Tape Thickness Chart- Courtesy of Swing Wait- GolfWRX 2016
  10. https://www.golfchan...ip-their-clubs/ Nike Tour Van - Tiger's Preferences
  11. All these threads and concerns, and not one Callaway rep comment- indirectly or directly. I would love to hear what Callaway insiders have to say about this apparent carbon crown-titanium face seam. It would be nice if more golf company reps would just post in our forums rather than keeping us in the dark.
  12. Reaming a forged hosel from .355 to .370- even without a vise- is seriously easy using a hand reamer.
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