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bullrambler

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  1. Quite simply - No the tour courses are longer now then courses were 30 years ago, So they and probably equal to what the length of course were in days gone by...!
  2. 16.5* Mizuno F-50 with steel DG-S-300 shaft, standard length.
  3. Top Flite Tour Midsize irons 1994-97. Easy to hit and control and they were set-up - decently at the factory. I'm either playing these or various classic blades.
  4. I hate to be negative but this year's US Open (and a few others) was lame... Very little excitement and boring to watch. Not the kind of game I enjoy as the overly tough conditions are an example of how the best players in the world can't make Par on a regular basis. I wasn't on the edge of my chair, nor was I in my chair throughout the duration of the tournament. I found myself doing other things while the tournament was on, but I did check in on it. So the US Open is my least favorite major. In comparison, the Players Championship (which is not a major) is way more interesting and fun to watch. The US Open is undeserving of being classified as a national championship that is entertaining. The promoters and decision makers got it wrong and if this is not addressed - then it's popularity will only decrease over the foreseeable future.
  5. Awesome set of irons. Probably not too common and your set is in great shape...!
  6. I"d say Faldo first due to 3 wins. And if they were going to consider older winners then it could be Floyd or Watson.
  7. Jack was part of the game improvement - golf ball thingy when he was affiliated with Maxifli and they came out with a tour ball that stayed round longer then the titleist balata. If my memory is correct it was advertised as a better ball then a titleist. I played it and liked that tour ball. I believe it was also a balata ball that did in fact stay rounder / longer than a titleist.
  8. Admittedly I've played some Northwesterns - more on a trial basis rather then a gamer type of club. They were ok and some of the higher end ones that they made were decent enough, And with a set-up I could have played them as a regular set. Now the sad part about the Northwestern type of club is that there is not much out there that the public can find that might serve the same low cost purpose. And, for old time sake I bought a Northwestern Thunderbird 9 iron out of a bin and it has a Power Kick shaft in it. One sticker says S while another sticker says X. The Power Kick shaft is like a bubble shaft made out of steel. It also has a Thunderbird icon with blue color around the icon.
  9. I had forgotten to share my experience with the irons on the course. I found them decent enough to play and the narrow soles were ok too, but have put them away for another day. I decided to keep them as I received them.
  10. I also recall some players indicating that the PW in the Spalding Tour Edition Custom Crafted set was the chink in the armor of the set. Some players switched out the PW while others played the PW with the rest of the irons. When we consider Mizuno irons as a comparison to the Spalding Tour Editions one has to go back prior to the MP 14 to find something that is more comparable to the Spaldings. In my experience the muscle back irons rain supreme for crisp ball striking. And what I am referring to is penetrating ball flight. I also used Maxfli balata's as they were advertised as good enough for Jack N so they were easily deemed as being good enough for me. They also (in my experience) held a round shape better/longer then the Titleist balata balls. Both were great balls for shaping the trajectory of course, and I'm not sure if one can work the newer balls as well as the older balls, and this may be "offset" by the irons that are in use today.. Naturally I'm talking about being a man of my era.(haha). Now with some thought given to the FCM Rifle 6.5 flex shafts. In my experience I have found that the Rifle shafts feel a tad bit like graphite over the DG shaft. To get the performance out of any shaft one has to load the shaft so that it will propel the ball though the air on a given trajectory. Also in my experience the FCM Rifles tend to hit the ball higher then a DG. But they have to loaded like all shafts have to be loaded. The Rifles are designed to fit a frequency profile rather then a constant weight profile. this may or not work for some of us, but one is never out of sorts for experimenting with the FCM Rifles, as one may find them suitable for reaching one's ball striking objectives. The tricky part is deciding how one might add Swing Weight to a FCM Rifle shaft based on some who perceive these shafts as feeling rather stout... And keep in mind I have seen the 6.5 in a number of iron sets from the era. Like the RAM Lazers and others. But the ideal results will be realized by the way the shaft is loaded and this may make a great deal of difference in the outcome. I used a SW scale on the Spalding S 22 set and found them dreadfully light. I'm talking C-8, C-9 and D-0. Personally I have not played clubs this light in any sets that have been garnered as good enough to play in the rotation. The light weight was somewhat of a surprise and as unconventional as it may be to some... I will likely add some weight down the shaft and settle somewhere between D-2 up to possibly D-4. Off the top of my head I think that D-5 or D-6 might be too much as I expect it would alter the flex and kick profile too much. This is not the way Rifles were designed but if I'm going to hit them they need weight and bigger grips so these two changes may balance out at the end of these modifications. The metal that was used in these irons is not as pliable as the older vintage MacGregor, Wilson and Spalding irons so I don't think that I'll tamper with the lies. I've seen guys crack the hosels on these Spalding irons when trying to bend them more then 2*. By the time (mid to late 1980's) the Spalding Tour Edition Custom Crafted irons were manufactured, the metal composition had changed. I don't believe they made them in Left Handed orientation. But it may very be that someone received a LH set but this is unlikely.
  11. Now just a few comments based on what some have asked about the S-22 Spalding Tour Edition Custom Crafted irons... Some of the Tour Edition Custom Crafted irons varied in head size. I remember a club champion from one of the courses I was a member of - back in the 1980's. His set had a larger head and he played them with DGR-300 and mine had a smaller head with DGS-300 shafts. He was a young tall man that had more then enough strength to play the DGS-300 but he said that he preferred to play a slightly softer shaft so he could work the ball both ways... He had a spot the size of dime on the faces of his irons and was a good shot-maker. At the time of examining his set I do not recall noticing any significance difference in offset. But there may have been some offset difference - I just don't recall noticing any. My set had very little offset if any at all. Hence my more recent occupation of refurbishing of older clubs like Macgregors, Wilsons, Spaldings and other brands. Mostly in Stiffs but occasionally in Regulars. A lot of them have little or no offset. I can say that when I wore a younger man's cloths, I could have (and did) hit DGX-100 shafts but they were not as prominent on sets as they may be on more newer sets of irons. They were more of a special order back then. So most guys bought off the shelf and used S-300, S-400 or R-300 or R-400. The DG shafts were available in R-100,200,300,400 and 500. And the DG in S-100,200,300,400,500. I seem to recall that the DG X flex was available in X-100, 200 and 300. I'm not sure if they were available in an X-400, or 500. The difference is that these shafts were weight sorted to match a given profile. Also rather then tip the shafts it was suggested by the manufacturer to set-up the shaft of stiffer flex in 1/4 inch difference to a softer shaft of the same Flex. We are talking about 1-2 MPH per weighted shaft. This would result in a heavier sorted shaft playing stiffer as the shaft transcended from S-100 to 200, 300, 400 and 500. That was what was suggested and this system would transcend into the next Flex. In my view this meant that one could really dial in a custom flex with the appropriate feel of a given shaft. Back then I was getting interested in the variables of DG shafts so my comments are what I recall from exploring the options and there may be some additional considerations - but this was what custom fitting was about back then. Also - there was swing weighting and now it seems like the trend is about establishing a frequency matching order from one iron to the next - which seems more prominent. The DG shaft can be one this way and a 370 tip is easier to establish a frequency profile due to tip trimming. Both the Rifle and DG shafts will work and it's about what kind of feel one wants from iron to iron throughout a set that matters most. I played the Spalding Registered Tour Edition Custom Crafted irons because Greg Norman was reported to have played them. We know that he was a great ball striker in his day and thankfully those irons worked well for me too. The ball flight was penetrating and went through the wind like a "hot knife in butter".(lol). In comparison, the Mizuno MP 14 irons (which I played later on), I found that the Spalding Tours were better. Why...? I'm not sure...? Maybe Grandfather time was beginning to wave his cane my way or maybe there was some other small detail that i didn't pick up on. I'm guessing it was a marginal difference in the offset.
  12. I guess we are still adding to this thread so I have something to show that I picked up yesterday in a hockey shop. These are SPALDING REGISTERED TOUR EDITION Custom Crafted S 22 forged irons (Circa 1992), They are not exactly what I played in my younger days - but this model is close enough... They were dirty and had some epoxy on the shafts but I could tell that they were close to new shape. Perhaps someone had the heads kicking around and added shafts to the heads. The grooves still have paint in them so they have been hit only a few times. Unfortunately, no PW though - and you will see that they were re-shafted with FCM Rifle 6.5 flex. This choice of shaft may have been one that was available during that era. Also they have ROYAL Slot Cord grips. I like cord grips but I have found that the Royal Grips always seem a bit on the small side. I took the pics outside but there is still some glare and they are very very good for the era. I may re-grip them and check the overall weight. These would be in good enough shape to place in a display case. I'd like to hit them but that will be a tough decision to make.
  13. I picked up a set of the TV irons as they were cheap as cabbage at the time of the purchase. I believe they had a lightweight steel shaft and they felt a bit dead to me so they moved out of the rotation and eventually I parted with them without hesitation. There was another model that appeared to have somewhat of a figure 8 carved out of the back of the muscle. They looked good - and they had the DGS in the set. I've never hit them though. And... I remember the metal woods having had decent representation on the course...
  14. The most consistent achievement that I could hit on demand from my set was a 4 iron. And this was with my Spalding TOUR EDITION Custom Crafted iron set. The 3 iron was iffy and if I missed it I would loose distance. So my recourse was to stick with the 4 iron or hit a 5 wood. And I know from watching a lot of golfers hit balls over the years they would start running into trouble at the 6 iron. I suspect that the reason was that they did not engage in sufficient practice to hit the lower lofted and long irons in their set. At some point we all need some advice and lessons to get the most out of what we bring to the course and that means practice. And here is two pieces of advice that helped to keep my scores as low as I could do on a given round. One was: "The smoother you swing the club the faster the club moves"... The second piece of advice was: Never try and hit a shot in a competitive round that you haven't practiced - and mastered".. Those two lessons have served me well over the years. On another note - I learned early on a competitive round can be built on achieving a reliable level of competency through chipping and pitching. I learned to love chipping and pitching as a form of "score savers"... So i obtained some birdies and pars based on taking on chipping and pitching as ball striking weapons in my arsenal of shots. I also hit the driver less and the 3 wood more. These choices kept my scores near par; under par and rarely more then a 2 or 3 strokes over par.
  15. If you are going to refinish them I would suggest a light refinishing job. It would be near impossible to replace the decals so a light sanding is in order. One has to decide if the soles should be removed but the screws and face plates appear to be fairly solid so I would not remove them. A light sanding and a finish of your own choosing. These woods are laminates and the value would be somewhat limited. Fun to hit though.
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