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Everything posted by RichieHunt

  1. You've altered your context from your original post that said. I believe dropping the club on a much flatter downswing plane than the backswing plane was criticized when I started playing golf, even though I'm aware that Ben Hogan did such a move. I do remember a "hip slide" with dropping the shoulder as another way to "shallow the club" although it wasn't promoted like this but rather a way to generate power. Without understanding all the methods of "shallowing the club" I have come to the conclusion that it is an unnatural manipulation of the club on the downswing and is only for younger golfers without back and knee problems. I also believe there are easier ways to stop an over the top move w/o contorting the body. I believe the disconnect is that you have not specified what the 'move' is that is being taught that is unnatural and will hurt the body. Thus it comes off like you're against shallowing out the club altogether. Re-reading your original post I get the idea that you're not actually against shallowing the club. But you haven't given an example of what move you're talking about that you disagree with. RH
  2. Shallowing like good players often do is anything but unnatural. Often times not being able to shallow out the club just comes down to poor concepts that the golfer was taught or read in a magazine or watched on video. You can have too much shallowing and that can present ballstriking problems of its own. But I would, far and away, take a swing with too much shallowing than not enough. RH
  3. It's more like 55% - 90%. With 90% being the putter (lowest lofted club in the bag) and 55% closer to being a wedge. But if you block a wedge dead right, you can believe that you face was pointed that way. Also depends on the individual club design. Some designs with a driver can be closer to 85% and others further from 85%. Also, curvature is dependent on the path with relation to the face angle, not with relation to the target. I can have an 'in-to-out' path 3 degrees with relation to the target and still hit a slice if the face angle is 6 degrees out to the right. And then hits that miss the sweet spot (which is the size of a needle point, not a quarter or a nickel or even a dime) by a wider margin throw a monkey wrench into everything because of the gear effect. RH
  4. I've heard this quite a bit a long time ago. Biggest issue is that it can get the wrong wrist action and actually cause you to come OTT. RH
  5. Yeah, you want the cheap less than $1 foot spray powder that you can find at a Dollar General. The good foot spray powder sprays on too thick. RH
  6. I think it's either too much pressure towards your toes in the right foot or too much pressure towards the heel of left foot. More or less, the foot is moving in the right direction, but it shouldn't move backwards and instead should just have the heel come up off the ground. RH
  7. I think it actually helps more with later hand speed. Your max hand speed occurs at around p5.5, when the upper trail arm connects to the trail side of the body (around the rib cage). Then your hand speed slows down into impact. We also know that the longest hitters tend to get peak horizontal force at p5.5, then the use a boatload of sheer force (getting the horizontal force to go the other direction) into impact. I think what happens is that you need that peak horizontal force at p5.5 because the hands will decelerate too much into impact if you don't start using the sheer force at the same time the hands start to decelerate. I was tested on ENSO and have a notorious issue with overfolding the right arm at the top of the swing. Despite that, I have a hair more max hand speed than JB Holmes (I think we ere around 26 mph). The big difference is that my hands slow down to about 18 mph at impact while Holmes' are at 22-23 mph. I think the over-folding of the right arm causes golfers like myself draw the chest towards their hands and not get enough horizontal force at p5.5 and then they can't get enough horizontal braking to not allow the hands to decelerate too much. RH
  8. I'd either check out David Orr www.flatstickacademy.com or Preston Combs www.prestonsputting.com RH
  9. From my experience, the Europeans would greatly miss it. They love the Ryder Cup. Virtually every European player on Tour that I've worked with has talked about one of their goals is to play on the Ryder Cup. And I can't tell you how many times I've seen a group of European amateurs make a golf trip to either Myrtle Beach or Pinehurst or Florida and looking for some Americans to play a 'Ryder Cup' style of event. RH
  10. Usually what happens is the left arm at p5 is jutted out too much. Either the golfer is doing a reverse loop action (arms moving too far inside in the backswing, then looping over too much on the downswing) or the swing is directed too far left, usually due to not enough turn and the hand path is too vertical in the backswing. And if you can still manage to shallow out the shaft a bit on the downswing, you can hit those well struck straight pulls as the face and path are going well left. RH
  11. Some clubs do, a lot don't. With drivers it's not unusual for OEM's to put the CoG more towards the heel to help with the slice. I find that the Ping G425 Max does that and a lot of Callaway drivers have the CoG moved more towards the heel. RH
  12. I do more of what Crenshaw and Faxon do...I take my normal backstroke with my head down on the ball. Then on the thrustroke I swivel my head at almost the same rate as the putter going thru. I find this give me the best of both worlds of being able to have awareness of where the ball is so I can make quality contact and being able to get enough turn of the body so I don't block putts. RH
  13. I use AimPoint Express along with the green reading books. The GolfLogix book don't tell you the exact slope, but it gives an accurate range of what the slope % is and I just determine it with my feet. Played in a team tournament back in July and we had this 40-foot eagle putt. It looked like it broke left-to-right and the green book showed that as well. And it did break to the right for most of the putt and then at the very end it basically broke the other way and straightened out. Each of us hit great putts that missed high because of that last break at the end. I was thinking that the green book didn't see that slope. Then a couple of days later I tried that putt again and still was confused by it. After that round I looked at the book more closely and there was 1 arrow that pointed the other direction. That's fascinatingly accurate. RH
  14. I have a green book for my home course that I got thru Golf Logix. I believe that green reading books should be outlawed. But since they're not, I use one. And I've found that they are quite helpful. But first it does help to be able to read greens on your own. It just gives a better feel all around. You do have to practice with it a bit. Just being able to figure out where your ball is located and where the hole is located quickly so you don't slow up play. GolfLogix has a grid over the green that has 5 yard increments, so you better determine where your ball is located and where the hole is located to make more accurate reads. RH
  15. It's not so much about if they turn as it is about the speed at what they turn. Basically the best ballstrikers on Tour get their pelvis turn, shoulder turn, chest turn and arm swing to stop at the top of the swing at the same time according to AMG collected from GEARS. But let's say you have a fairly standard 90* shoulder turn and 45* pelvis turn in your backswing. The shoulders have to 'travel' much further than your pelvis. So you could start turning your pelvis immediately in the takeaway, but that pelvis will need to slow down later in the backswing in order to allow for the shoulder turn and arm swing to 'catch up' and arrive at the final destination at the same time. Personally I try to not turn my pelvis as best as I can into p2. From there I allow my right oblique to turn and that forces my pelvis to turn into p4. RH
  16. General shot pattern for all golfers is to go longer on pull side misses and shorter on push side misses. This is due to the way the irons are constructed and the D-Plane. What's interesting from my research is that higher handicaps (10-25) tend to have a higher distribution of push side misses while the 0-10 handicaps see more of a distribution towards the pull side. Then the sub scratch golfers start to see more of an even distribution of pull vs. push misses, but the better ballstrikers of the sub-scratch group tend to favor more push side misses. And if they miss pull side, it's not enough to where they will miss long by a substantial amount. With that being said, about 5 years ago I did research on Tour players and found that the hole locations that give them the most problems on par-4's and par-3's are front pin locations. This surprised me because I would have thought the back pin locations would be worse because it is effectively making the hole longer. I know Lou Stagner has shown data that there is a sizable dropoff in GIR % on front pin locations vs. back pin locations on Tour from the same distance on the approach shot. My conclusion is that front pin locations are problematic for golfers because golfers tend to miss short of the target distance than long. Combine that with the tendency to have the bigger miss of the 'pushed-and-short', it creates worse short side scenarios. I think front pin locations are deceptive in that if a golfer hits a quality tee shot, they probably won't make many double bogeys or worse with a front pin location. But if they miss the green on a front pin location, I believe the odds of making bogey shoot dramatically up because it's so easy to short side yourself. It's almost like death by a 1000 paper cuts. And that's a problem for Tour players, imagine the rest of the golfing world who don't have nearly their skill level. For very low handicaps, I recommend adding 5 yards (to what the hole is playing) on front pin locations. For example, a short par-3 on my home course has a front pin location that is 148 yards long. But the incline slope adds about 5 yards. And if there's a 1-club wind in my face, now I play the 148 yard hole more like 168 yards to better ensure that I don't short side myself. If I catch one flush and go 5 yards long, then I'm left with a 15-foot putt which is still quite makeable. RH
  17. I'd work chronologically. I think the big thing I see is that you have a reverse loop OTT move. Working chronologically to the cause of that. - Pelvis turns too much too early in the swing - This causes the hands to suck inward too much with too muc left tilt and too much forward bend (towards the ball). - The hands go too far inward, then they go upward and the right arm overfolds to cause the reverse looping OTT action. I'd personally work on the takeaway action Get the left scapula to protract into p2 while the hips stay relatively square. This will get the handpath moving more diagonally instead of in, up and over. The right arm won't overfold as much and you won't get as steep. RH
  18. I find this to happen a bit on greens where there are large hills/mounds surrounding the hole. This is often talked about with mountain courses, but I've seen this happen in Florida, typically with courses that have moguls designed around the hole. Something about the hills throws everything off. I also keep in mind that if I have some doubt, read from the other side of the hole. I use AimPoint and it's great, but sometimes you can be thrown off. Lastly, if you play the same course almost all of the time and have the money, get a GolfLogix green book. Personally I think they should be outlawed, but they're not and once I got one for my home course my green reading on that course improved immensely (that's why I think they should be outlawed). RH
  19. Just got the information on The Reserve membership initiation and monthly dues. Both The Reserve and Grande Dunes Members Club are run by McConnell Golf and they offer very reasonable pricing. The temptation is still with Grande Dunes because you get access to Grande Dunes Ocean Club with it (although you could join The Ocean Club separately). I have not heard back from TPC Myrtle Beach which I know is not private, but a course of interest nonetheless. RH
  20. Guy on the first tee hits a toe shank which hits the tee marker and goes over the cart barn into the parking lot. It looked liked this. This happened during league night with just about the entire league watching. RH
  21. Interesting. I have the S+ $ tapers. I first had them in a set of Honma's and now have them in a set of New Level 902 Forged irons. I never had the 'heavy head feeling.' I don't SW match my clubs. I MOI match them and had to add quite a bit of lead tape to get the clubs at 2,725. Typically I'll get 1 or 2 clubs that I don't need to add weight to the head at all to get them to that 2,725 mark. RH
  22. Thanks. I heard back from Grande Dunes Members Club and they are running a discount on initiation and members dues. It's very enticing, particularly since you gain full access to the Ocean Club. I just don't know if the course and the membership will be to my liking. That's part of what I'm looking for...the membership or at least with the public courses some members that I can consistently get a game with. Back in the day you didn't have that because the main private clubs (Dunes, Surf Club, Reserve) had small memberships that didn't log in many rounds at all, particularly on the weekdays. And the public courses were practically a no-go, even if you were a single, for about 6 months out of the year. Calendonia used to be straight up book solid, both tees from 7am-9:32am and then again from noon-2:32pm (8 minute intervals). Thanks again for the info. RH
  23. I am strongly considering moving to the Myrtle Beach area permanently next year. I lived in the area in the 90's for 5 years as I went to college at CCU. However, I haven't been back there in 15 years. Back when I lived there, they really didn't have memberships (even on the public courses) and may have had only 2 or 3 private clubs (Surf Club, Dunes Club, The Reserve). I've seen now that things have dramatically changed. I would prefer to look at private clubs, but I am willing to go the public course with a membership route. I also want a range membership (doesn't have to be a Tour level range, but it must be a quality range). I'm looking for the following: - Initiation < $10K (I could go to $15K if I can pay it out of 3-5 years). - Golf course & Range membership monthly dues < $500 - Course must be at least 6,600+ yards long I looked at Wachesaw Plantation, but they are on the outer limits of what I'd be willing to spend. The Grande Dunes Members Club had very affordable membership options, but I've never seen the course. I inquired at the Reserve Club, but never heard back. I'm guessing that the Dunes Club and Surf Club (both require member invitation) are out of my range. I have not heard what the membership packages are from TPC Myrtle Beach. The Caledonia and True Blue membership packages sounds enticing, but I question tee time availability. Curious to see if anybody else has some input. Thanks in advance. RH
  24. Really a fantastic video. The avatars that show what's going on without swinging the club create a much clearer picture. I've been working on the protraction of the lead scapula for a while now. I thought I had it pretty good, then about a month ago everything fell apart and when I looked at my swing on video for the first time in 4 months, it was a dumpster fire. I went back to working on the left shoulder protraction, but focused more on the right arm (particularly the right elbow and wrist). But this video clarified a lot of things I couldn't quite picture and therefore, couldn't understand. RH
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