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  1. I reshafted an old Hogan BHB5-SS putter and put a ~10g tip weight in the shaft. Same situation as yours that the head weight was about 330g. I have not noticed any issues with balance or stroke. I got a 9g tungsten weight to use which is quite a bit smaller in size than a lead tip weight.
  2. These are the old '02 Edge Pro irons - I bought them off ebay - you are correct, I don't think they are selling new individual irons.
  3. I also went the route of buying individual irons - Hogan Edge Pro 6(30)/8(38)/E(46) - then added a Maltby Ke4 23 deg, a driver, 5W (17), Hogan SW (54), and putter. Not very scientific but I've got clubs to cover a lot of situations.
  4. Not sure if this is helpful but I found these Prolite shafts in my parts closet. The Prolite R one has the '35+' mark on the opposite side. The 35R one does not have the text on the opposite side. All of these are .335 to .340 or so tip dia for about 3 inches. The ones you are showing are from a later time and I don't think they are a bore-through variant. To the question on tip trim, I'd go with no tip trim. Golfworks advises no tip trim for driver or fairway installation with the Prolites they are offering.
  5. Golfworks still sells a Prolite shaft and they show a 2 inch parallel tip but that does seem kinda small. I would not tip trim. I recall some discussion on here from Howard Jones about the 35 and 3.5 versions possibly with the newer 3.5 versions being a little stiffer. Titleist put a lot of the burgundy 35 ones in 975D drivers. The graphics in the picture you are showing came after this period. The successor to this shaft is the Prolaunch Red. It's an older shaft but still very playable - I have a black 35 Prolite in a backup driver and have the FW version in a ba
  6. I reshafted a 2010 BB1 a little while ago and am fairly certain (not 100%) that it was 0.355.
  7. This list is a good one. I use a tape measure for raw shaft lenghts and a clinometer app (digital protractor) on my phone. I like the one from Plaincode and use it quite a bit for Anser style putter lofts and lies.
  8. I think you have two options - either ream out the hosel or sand down the shaft tip. I have reshafted Redwood Ansers and also noticed the shaft tip is less than .355. I used a drill followed by a dremel to enlarge the hosel diameter - this is not a recommended way to do it, use a reamer if you have one. I have also sanded the tip gently on a .355 shaft with a belt sander to get it to fit. I think Ping actually does it this way. The shaft diameter right above the smaller tip is about .355.
  9. And I'm stopping here. The shape looks good but it is not quite as blunt as I would like. I'll hit a few balls with it to see how it works. Later on, I may try a 14 inch radius to take a little more off and make it more blunt.
  10. That's nice work @Howard_Jones- I unfortunately do not have that level of a skilled eye and hand to do it that way! I go at it very slowly with a much smaller belt sander.
  11. I've been working on an old Hogan K-grind wedge. I usually like to straighten and blunt the leading edge on wedges and in the past have done this by eye with a belt sander. This time I decided to make a guide to help with the shape. I drew up a 12 inch radius curve on Visio, added a couple of guide lines, and printed it on a clear overhead projector sheet. The guide lines help get it centered and square. The photo shows it taped on the head and you can clearly see where to take a little off. I just did a little more shaping on it and will smooth it out with some sandpaper. This works mu
  12. My memory suggests that the older ones are somewhat stiffer per flex and the Apex 4 was intended to be a lighter version of a Dynamic S shaft. I never liked the Apex 4 but in recent years, the Apex 3 worked well for me.
  13. I ended up using a 9mm drill followed by enlarging slightly with a dremel tool to get a 0355 to fit. You can also take a little off the diameter of the shaft going the other direction. Not too hard to do.
  14. I have reshafted a couple of Redwood Ansers and neither had a ball bearing. Fairly easy to heat a little and pull the shaft. It has been a while but I think the tip diameters were slightly less than .355 - maybe .350 or close to that. My understanding is that Ping hasn't used the ball bearing for many years. With better epoxies these days, the bearing is not needed.
  15. I would also suggest that a blunt leading edge is helpful for the digger too.
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