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EmperorPenguin

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  1. I would like to juxtapose the Burner 4 wood with the Cleek. The Burner is 18 degrees and the Cleek 19. They are both great clubs and I have hit great shots with both of them, but when it comes to cosmetics, the Cleek is prettier. The crown on the Burner is flatter, while that of the Cleek is bulkier and domed. The Burner sets up like an orange slice and the Cleek sets up more like an real man's club. The Cleek has that extra degree of loft that will give me that little extra help when playing out of the rough, though I cannot attest if the rails at the bottom help; maybe they do, maybe no
  2. I forgot to post here pictures of what I consider one of the best 3 woods in the 1990's. As stated earlier, my favorite TaylorMade woods were the Burner 3 wood 15 and the Tour Spoon. For Titleist, they released their version of those popular woods, and for the more discerning player they offered some with bore-thru hosels. If you happen to see one for sale with the shaft you like, jump on it! Titleist's imitation of the Burner 3 wood was so good you are tempted to say it is better, but out of respect for TaylorMade you would be silent about it. Quite honestly, I love them both equally.
  3. Glad you picked one up. I personally guarantee you will fall in love with this club like I did. When you get it, come back to this thread and post your initial impressions of it. I cannot explain why, but the shape of the club intuitively clicks with the mind when you set up to the ball and when you swing it it feels so damn good. This club was way ahead of its time. When I play golf with it, whenever kids ask me what kind of hybrid it is, I invariably answer, "Hybrid?! No, buddy, this is the the original Tour Cleek from way before you were born." I usually offer kids with good swings a
  4. Here are pictures of my Tour Cleek 19. Through the years I polished away the gray finish on the crown. However, this will best illustrate how the club sets up. I prefer much more this club than the standard Burner 4 wood. Tour Cleek was also available in 24 degrees, if memory serves me right, but I never bought it because the 19-degree cleek was all I needed. Cleek is indeed the correct name. Traditionally, the cleek's specs make it a 4 wood. It is so hard to explain in words. Go out there and pick one up for yourself. You will fall in love with how it sets up.
  5. I gave it a shot and it worked! The epoxy base loosened up and squeezed through like new. However, I wonder if this will compromise the bond. I will not be able to tell you in the near future because the club I just reshafted is a putter.
  6. I declare myself the authority on this subject because I started playing golf in 1990 when persimmon was starting to lose market share to metalwoods and graphite shafts with stainless-steel heads were the hype. I am looking at my club rack and I see many metalwoods--please, don't call them "metals"--in that time. I will give you my answers on what I consider the best. Gary Adams was a marketing genius who made Taylor Made the leader in woods. People think they were the first metalwoods, but Pinseeker was around before them, but Gary simply marketed them better. For a long time in
  7. If you are a low-handicapper take a cart because you will likely hit the fairway off the tee and will have a general idea of which clubs to bring out to the fairway, usually no more than four. Hit the shot to the green and drive up; if you miss the green bring a couple wedges and a putter and you're set. If you are a hacker you will want all your clubs with you, since you will be hitting twenty yards at a time, and pull/push carts can be a burden on slopes, so I recommend a lightweight stand bag and play it like a real man.
  8. Thanks for the info guys. I'll shop around for some epoxy base. The activator is still good, but I guess it is only good with the same make epoxy base? I am using Brampton Pro Fix 20/20 epoxy.
  9. Yes, I love the original Golf Pride Tour Wraps! The last time I bought Tour Wrap grips was about 2004 (glossy finish), so I do not know how today's Tour Wraps compare. A lot of guys wish the Tour Wrap cords were still around. Because my hands have calluses in all the right places, coupled with having a textbook neutral grip, I can play with most any grip. I like fresh grips from Winn, but they don't last long and they rip very easily. Nowadays, I just play cheap Karma grips I can buy on eBay for about a buck a grip; they are much like Tour Velvets and I'm fine with that. In my
  10. I do not shaft clubs often, but I have noticed recently that the epoxy base is hardening over time. I suppose the base is the clear white gel and the activator is the colored syrup. It has gotten to the point that I am squeezing the bottle so hard nothing is coming out of it, and I have to unscrew the nozzle and scoop out the epoxy base. Is this normal? I store both parts at room temperature. Aside from buying new epoxy, would it help to soften the base with a little heat?
  11. I used to have a RAM staff bag which I bought from a discount store closing sale for $40, but later sold it for what I bought it. I do not have seller's remorse because the bag was huge (12" top) and today I have no room for it. My bias toward Ram dates back to the first seventeen years of my golfing life when I luckily picked up a full set (1-SW) of Golden Ram Tour Grind Vibration Matched irons for only $120 at the local Nevada Bob's on consignment. I was lucky that they were the coveted Vibration Matched irons because later on I was in the golf industry and I met a lot of touri
  12. I had a similar experience at the local muni a few years ago. I do not own an 8802, but I do have a Sportsman George Low Wizard 600. It is usually a practice putter, but I decided to put it in play that day. I had nothing out of the ordinary, about the usual 30 putts for the day. I did not three-putt that day.
  13. I absolutely agree with you. For me, my putter must be 33.5", though I can putt well with 33" also. I need an Anser-style head with the old-school weight (330 grams?). All my putters are like that and I can putt well with any of them.
  14. Of course, when you talk about players who practice and play every day when they are not traveling between tournaments. There is no substitute for long hours of practice, and I would trade the most expensive putter in the world for the touch of a man who earned his stroke through countless hours on a practice putting green. Jim Jamieson tied for second at the 1972 Masters with as miscellaneous a grab bag of sticks you'll ever see--including a dime-store putter. The putting stroke must be earned through hard work, regardless of equipment, and it certainly does not discriminate against price.
  15. I want to add here that the reason why I have my reservations is that I do not use any of the new stuff. I have twenty sets of golf clubs, all from the past millennium ranging from the 1973 Hogan Apex irons (oldest) and I think my newest irons are my Titleist 962's (circa 1997). I like the weaker lofts and lengths, preferring the 5 iron at 37.5" because I am stuck on those lengths and lofts because I played my first seventeen years with Golden Ram Tour Grind Vibration Matched Irons (1982). Looking at my rack, the newest driver I see is, I think, my 2007 Taylor Made Burner TP. Nothing is ne
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