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Everything posted by EmperorPenguin

  1. Maybe an idea to use in match play, to use red or blue ball to get into your opponent's head. However, it may backfire and get into yours!
  2. I had a set of the 990B's, but I sold them because to me they were not as sexy as my 962's, nor were my shots better than from the 962's. The 962 was simply a superior club.
  3. I don't have 962B's, but I did try them from a buddy's set. They feel much more like blades than the standard 962's. Here is the 1 iron at address. You can see the minimal--or lack of, I would say--offset. I say that the offset is negligible. Grab a set and go hit a few with 'em! You will not be disappointed.
  4. The 962B's are basically blades. The cavity is much shallower and the heads are smaller. You might as well consider musclebacks if you will look into the 962B's. The 962's set up beautifully, with no offset and toplines a touch wider than true blades. If you address the ball with a 962 2 iron and do a waggle you will get the idea immediately. I think you will fall in love with those clubs and will never let them go.
  5. He was longer than that. Elementary physics at play with a 60" driver. Their driving distances were not as impressive as in 1982, maybe because it was raining that day at Shoal. Wedgy, ha! He must have gotten that name after too many kids pulled up his pants from behind.
  6. I am your man. I am an equipment junkie obsessed with irons from the last millennium. I have twenty sets of golf clubs, and none of them are from the past two decades. The lofts are all weaker, with the pitching wedge at 48 degrees. Judging by your original post, and looking at my club rack, these are the clubs I highly recommend. Daiwa DG-1 (very rare) Golden Ram Tour Grind Vibration Matched Hogan Apex 1973 Hogan EDGE GCD Tour Forged (rare) King Cobra Norman Oversized Maxfli Tour Ltd. Forged Mizuno T-Zoid Pro II Titleist 962 Titleist DCI
  7. I just came across this video randomly. Amazing how far they hit the ball back then, and with steel shafts and persimmon heads. It is good to see young Freddie, Fuzzy, Lonnie, Payne, and other guys I grew up watching.
  8. Red is indeed a mystery. Even a bright red ball is hard to see when the ball is in flight. Conceptually, you think that because it is a bright color you should be able to see it fly, but on a golf course it is very difficult for us to see the flight of the ball. Maybe a lot of us have red-green color blindness? Blue I can easily understand: the sky is blue, so the blue ball blends with the sky and you lose the ball's initial vector, so your eyes cannot anticipate where it is headed to before they focus on the next region. I think that the colors that are hard to spot
  9. I have seen many golf ball colors, and some are harder to watch the flight than other. To me, the best color is white, as I have the best lucking finding that one as it flies. Yellow is not bad, but some other colors I cannot see fly. Of course, dark green would be the hardest to find, but who makes them anyway? Just today I was playing with a lady who used purple balls, and they were hard to spot. Bright red I also have trouble seeing, and I also saw a glossed black ball from Ping. Which color ball is the worst for you?
  10. A quick update on my Langert set. I did not like the Hogan Apex Plus irons (2-6) because of the horrid offset on the 2 and 3 irons, so I sold them off and now I bought some Wilson Staff RM Tour irons (2-6) to replace them. The irons have no offset, and now I am happy with this partial Langert set. They're great clubs.
  11. I don't fully understand you. I have eighteen sets of golf clubs on my club rack, all of which are from the last millennium. The newest, "modern" iron I have is a Cleveland TA2 3 iron I just have lying around. I addressed a ball and looked down on the face, and with a square face it does appear that my hands are ahead of the ball, as they are supposed to. However, when I set my hands equal to or behind the ball, the leading edge is still square, but the hosel does appear bent or awkward. I think that the key is to look at the hosel itself and not the shaft?
  12. Why is the 1973 Apex classified along with the 1972 model? The 1972 is unlike the 73-78.
  13. This is perplexing. I was out on the golf course and checked out some sand wedges in my buddies' bags. I usually like to check the bounce of the sand wedge, but for the two sand wedges I saw today, they bring up the issue of how bounce is measured in the first place. One sand wedge is a Titleist Bob Vokey with 56 degrees of loft and 10 degrees of bounce. The bounce looked much like what I would expect from ten degrees of bounce. The next sand wedge is a Cleveland with 56 degrees of loft and 11 degrees of bounce. However, when looking at the bounce, it looked huge! To me it looks like at
  14. I have not been having much luck recently with the last few sets of ferrules I have ordered. The very first set of ferrules I ordered was very tight, and tight enough that I had to use a ferrule block to install them. Another set were on loosely that they moved up and down the shaft with ease. The last set I ordered were somewhere in between: they moved up and down the shaft with a little pressure. I am sure I ordered the correct size ferrule: .355" inner diameter for a .355" taper tip. For the loose-fitting ones I resorted to coating the insides with shafting epoxy to keep them there. D
  15. I use a club measurement rack, which I bought from Golf Works. The toughest part of determining length is the precise starting point, which is very difficult to determine with a radiused sole. I measure from that point to the top corner of the grip.
  16. I admit that I am very picky about my equipment, especially when it comes to lengths. I am proud to say that all my sets have perfect half-inch progressions. Not only have I extended 1/8", I have also trimmed and extended 1/16" for several clubs. How do I trim off 1/16"? That is another story. My demand for this exact precision stems from the years of buying used sets online. More often than not, the sets come in with horrid deviations from proper specs. I often wonder, did chimpanzees measure and trim these clubs? One set in came in so bad that every club needed to be trimm
  17. I am about to extend a 7 iron 1/8" and I am wondering about the extension. About 2" of the extension goes into the shaft before I measure and cut. After cutting, would that 2" create a problem because the weight of the extension would change the dynamics of the club?
  18. Today I will prep the shaft tips and start putting on the shims, and before applying them I will clip off the shims halfway--or maybe a third of the way? If this hack works, why are the shims so long in the first place?
  19. I just removed those plugs from the hosels. It took a lot of elbow grease, butane torch, an awl and a shaft reamer tool to get those damn plugs out. I basically heated them up with my butane microtorch, broke up the plastic plugs with my awl, and in some cases had to manually scrape out the plastic just like my dental hygenist does when scraping the tartar off my teeth. The next step before shafting with the shims is to clean out the hosels with acetone. This is off topic, but what is the best way to clean out the hosel with acetone? I know I cannot pour the acetone into the ho
  20. Here is a recent development. As I was cleaning out my hosels I noticed a plug at the bottom. The plugs look like they are made of plastic. I cannot tell if they were either bonded in there, or if the manufacturer placed them there. Should I try to bore them out? I think these little rods may get in the way of the shim, and the shaft will not go in all the way. However, the shims I bought all have a small hole in the center, so maybe I can force the shaft in there with the shim so the plug forces through the shim? Also, here is a dumb question. The brass shim has two sides,
  21. I will install the shafts starting with the AP2 4 iron shaft on the Daiwa 3 iron, and I will trim them down 1/2" to the old standard. How will that half inch affect the dynamics of the shaft?
  22. Yes, I have always thought that a shaft is a shaft, and stiff is stiff. I did not know that there is such a complex science to building a club. That's why I am the amateur and you are the pro. You are right that I was more interested in saving the grips because the shaft lengths would be so perfect if I would start with the AP2 5 iron shaft in the Daiwa 3 iron head, but I suppose it would be wiser to insert the AP2 4 iron shaft into the Daiwa 3 iron head and trim down. I am just being lazy to keep the grips. However, I do have a grip remover to remove the grips before I start t
  23. Yes, the shafts are all shaft pulls from a set of Titleist AP2's, 4-SW. The longest (the 4 iron shaft) measures 10.5" from the first step to the tip of the shaft. The one I like, the second longest, was originally for an AP2 5 iron, and that one measures at 10" from the first step to the tip, and if I put that one in the 3 iron head the club's total length would be the 38.5" I am looking for. Would that be too stiff? The Daiwa heads come from the old-school era, with the weaker lofts, so maybe the AP2 4-iron shaft would be suitable for the 3 iron head?
  24. Forgive me, guys, if this question seems too basic. I am not a professional clubmaker, so I definitely appreciate all the help you guys have given me in the past. Here is my situation. I bought a set of Daiwa heads (3-SW with gap wedge) from Japan, and the heads require a .370" tip. However, I could not find any used, cheap .370" shafts online, and the only thing I can find are a set of ten pulled .355" True Temper Dynamic Gold S300's at a great price. I bought a dozen brass shims along with the set so I think installation should be no problem. The shafts arrived yesterday, mo
  25. Sliding up hot ferrules sounds like a good idea, but wouldn't that apply only to unitized shafts? For a tapered shaft won't the ferrule set firmly to as hard as you slam down the club? How about this idea? After installing the ferrule using my ferrule block, instead of slamming the butt end on the floor with the head on, tap on the floor firmly to try to set the ferrule most of the way, apply the shim then the epoxy, and then slam hard the butt end to close forcefully that gap?
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