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Everything posted by BenHoganSlam1953

  1. Not at all ... once you put together a bag that works, I wouldn't change it unless a club breaks or the grooves are gone. I've gone back to using steel shafts in all of my clubs, except my driver, which uses a heavier fairway shaft instead of the common lighter shafts ... and all of my clubs have heaps of lead tape on the tops, backs, and hosels in order for me to dial them in just right.
  2. My original post appears to have been deleted so I don't have to correct it. Myself, I went to mid-sized grips so that I could then add more lead tape to the heads to increase my static weight. I might reverse that next year. I've used both the tour locks and lead plugs for the butt of the club. I like that I can move the tour locks down the shaft to finese the feel.
  3. My 58 (medium bounce) goes about 80 yards when I make an easy full swing. If I open it a bit (making it a 60 degree) it will go about 70 yards. Around the green I use it about 50% of the time in combination with my 54 (high bounce).
  4. I've tried MOI and swingweight ... for myself, swingweight works better and the results are more consistent; though in theory MOI should have worked better.
  5. I've played blades, MB, CB, and G series type of irons. Was able to play low rounds with all of them. The G series type of iron were deadly straight and always went the same distance. In fact, that is why I moved away from them ... they couldn't be finessed, but boy where they precise. They also had the older grooves and so I couldn't use them in competition. My current irons happen to work the best for me. If I'm a bit fat they cut through the turf like a hot blade. Toe shots go dead straight with little loss of yardage if I hit the ball cleanly. Plus, I can finesse them to my heart's content.
  6. I have three SM5s: 50/12 (F grind), 54/14 (F grind), and 58/8 (M grind) ... my 54 is when there is lots of soft sand, as well as, soft or fluffly lies - whereas my 58 is for less sand (or when the conditions of the bunker are iffy) and hardpan conditions.
  7. 54, 2 hybrids - G10 21 and 24 degree with steel shafts. Never could get one not to hook with graphite shafts. I could put my 4 iron in play, but these hybrids go so straight and are more conistent with yardages.
  8. 10.4 - G10 hybrids (steel shafts) for 3,4 and MP-32s for 5-9 ... I cannot see me changing my bag going forward unless my clubs are stolen or break beyond repair.
  9. Quite a bit a trial and error, but a lot depends on whether you like to manufacture shots around the green or just hit the ball square. If you open and close the face then grind will be very important. Most courses I play have lots of baked fairways, as well as very soft conditions, so I have my 54 for the soft, fluffy lies and my 58 for the tighter lies and firm conditions. I use my 50 for a lot of chips as most greens require me to fly the ball a bit before letting it roll.
  10. I'll be playing my 32s until they just do not work ... which will likely be long after I'm not able to play golf. Go try out various options, you'll find one just as good or better. My favorite set of irons that I regret not buying was Nike's VR Pro blades - best I ever felt - and they were on sale at the time.
  11. I was looking for hybrids with a metal shaft and ended up with some G10's. I find both (21 and 24 degrees) easy to hit and control, with no tenancy to hook. The ball launches high, but seems to be unaffected by the wind.
  12. I believe a lot depends on one's gapping more so than any general concepts of proper loft gapping. Last season I pulled my PW (47) and put in a (50) to better match my 54/58. I played all season like this and although there is a gap now between my 9i and 50, it never came into play during my rounds. I now find myself less often in-between yardages with my 9i (43) / 50 / 54 versus my 9i (43), PW (47) and 54.
  13. My best drives are when I setup to "feel" like I'm hitting down on the ball … when I set up to feel like I am hitting even slightly up on the ball - I have no control of it, and I cannot align at all. Applies to all of my clubs.
  14. I picked up three Ping G10's with the standard metal shafts (about 105 grams) … the 21 and 24 degree versions play no different than my irons when played at the factory lengths. As straight or curved as I desire - but do they land high and soft. The 18 degree version though is too long at the standard length and unfortunately needs to be cut to the same length as my 21 degree (if I do not want to hit left all day), thus why I play my 5 wood instead.
  15. Absolutely nothing wrong at all! I have MP-32s from 2004 (legal for the 2010 rules). They were mint when I picked them up 10 years ago; and although I've tried quite a few other irons, these ones remain in the bag. I only pulled the PW last year for a Vokey wedge in order to match my other wedges.
  16. Mizuno MP-32s with a couple of ping G10 hybrids on the long end ... nice to find hybrids that play the same as my irons.
  17. Never had success with hybrids until I found my wonderful Ping G10's (21, 24) with 108 gram metal shafts (before I only used 80-85 gram graphite shafts) - added lead tape to the heads to get the swing weight I prefer. The transition from my wedges/irons to my hybrids and woods is finally smooth ... having 3 and 4 hybrids that I can hit confidently into greens was a game changer for me.
  18. If he dislikes the stuffy country club atmosphere then he should quit the tours. Where does he think he plays most of his professional golf? It is not the local muni with damaged greens and almost empty bunkers. I play where I like, the cheapest golf membership I can find on an interesting track ... he should just start playing where he prefers.
  19. > @NRJyzr said: > > @pingnewbie said: > > Confused here - why would blades offer more consistent yardages when misses on the face aren't as forgiving? > > > The answer can be found in this excerpt from a blog piece by Terry Koehler. Not going to post the entire thing, but it can be found with a google search... > > ***** > As I've spent 50 years playing this crazy game, and 25+ years in the equipment industry, I've had a number of eye-opening "epiphanies" (the dictionary defines "epiphany" as "a sudden, intuitive perception of or insight into the reality or essential meaning of something."). > > One of those came in the mid-1990's as I was reviewing some Iron Byron results we were doing at Hogan. > > Let me set this up by saying that I've always played blades - I like the shot control, trajectory and feel of them, not to mention the clean compact appearance behind the ball. > > But for a few years prior to this time, I was playing Hogan Edge cavity back forgings. They felt OK, and my handicap stayed about scratch, but my game seemed different. There certainly was no question that they were forgiving. > > Back to the research. I was looking at a chart of shot patterns of different irons we were testing, and was particularly struck by something I saw. > > With Iron Byron set to swing a 6-iron with about 165 yards of distance, the cavity back irons we were testing were producing a pattern on dead center hits that was about 8' wide and about 15-17' long ! > > These are duplicate swings, dead center impact, and these shots are coming out 3-4' right or left of the target line, and as much as 8-9' short or long ! > > Not just with one model of iron, but with nearly every cavity back we tested. Now, realize that as we moved the impact further from the center of the face, the forgiveness factor was excellent, but I was puzzled by that "dead center" pattern. > > Then I looked at the chart for the new Apex blade we were developing. On heel misses, it was slightly worse than the cavity back models. > > On toe misses, the Apex was significantly worse (blades have very little mass out on the toe). > > But on dead center hits - our shot pattern was about 1/4 the size of the cavity back pattern !In other words, the perfect shots were much better! > ***** That's the thing ... I may be left if I pull, or I may drift right of my target, but I know what my average and what my max yardages will be so I can eliminate any hazards; and whether 10 feet or 30 feet, I am putting for birdie more often than not ... as I am quite often pin high
  20. They happen to fit my current bag well and I prefer the turf interaction, plus I find them better for chipping. In addition, I can get more than enough height to hold a green from even tricky lies on the fairway. However, the main reason is that they are an early warning indicator when I am getting lazy with my setup and swing, thus helping me to avoid the big misses with my long clubs. I found with my more forgiving irons that I was struggling more with my driver and woods.
  21. I've played MBs / CBs and G type irons (Apex FTX, Hogan Edge CFT, MP-32, MP-53) ... played similar with all. Currently, my lowest iron is a 6i so there would be little difference anyways. I can shoot in the 70's or 90's with any of them since location off the tee is a bigger factor in my scores than the type of iron I play.
  22. I've recently stopped focusing on my backswing and now just rotate my shoulders - it is quite the improvement. When I was trying to make my usual backswing I was WAY over swinging and straining my neck ... actually gave myself whiplash a couple of weeks ago ... had to forgo a tournament I already paid for and enjoyed a week of sharp neck pain. No choice but to change my method of swinging if I wanted to continue playing golf.
  23. Apparently, removing all clubs that are too long for me has allowed my body and eyes to figure out alignment without me fighting myself constantly ... a pleasant surprise as I have struggled with alignment for years.
  24. I have a Vokey 62 (T) and it is constantly used for approach, pitching, flops, chipping and bunkers ... my most reliable club
  25. Mine will likely be staying until I can no longer golf :)
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