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  1. Close enough where you can buy based on which looks better to your eye at address, or has the better shaft, etc. In a blind test of a 100 golfers, I think the SIM might win 51-49.
  2. That's awesome. Such a unique looking iron, that worked really well.
  3. TourStage X-Blade 705 Type S. 5-PW. Standard L,L,L. Brand new KBS C Taper Lite 110 shafts. (These shafts were $245.70 professionally installed) New Golf Pride Tour Velvet grips. (These were $42.00 installed) These are one of Endo's best forgings. Similar to the Bridgestone J40 CB, but with a little deeper cavity in the long irons for ease of use. These are about as good as it gets if you are looking for a soft forged iron, that still delivers distance and forgiveness.I added a touch of lead tape to get them to D3 ... This tape removes easily. I can do it prior to shipping if you woul
  4. Tiger made the PW to 56 transition work pretty well.
  5. bullie76 - you can play these in a combo set for sure. Maybe go PTx in 5-7 and Icon in 8-PW. Throw some Mitsubishi OT or Fujikura MCI shafts in there while you're at it. Golf is a fun hobby, play what you want.
  6. I may in fact be a little OCD, but I played with the same set of irons for a long time at D2. I now find that I am the most consistent if my irons are all at D2. I feel like if you have grooved your swing for a significant time to a specific SW ... it probably matters. Probably matters less for golfers who have moved back and forth between some different swingweights, or aren't even aware of the term 'swingweight'. lol ...
  7. With the right shaft, I'm betting on the CG16 Tour to win that battle. Highly underrated club.
  8. The Rogue SZ is a great head. Several people I play with have hit it long and straight for multiple seasons. Clearly the shaft change is playing the largest role in your mis-hits. It's shorter, lighter overall weight, and lighter flex. I'm guessing the swingweight is lower as well, yes? You mention that you have a "flatter" swing. From my experience, golfers with flatter swings take even longer to adapt to shaft changes, because timing is even more critical the flatter the swing. A drop in spin is rarely beneficial for accuracy, so I agree with others that this is also potentially part
  9. I'm waiting for their Jablome models to hit the shelves.
  10. Lofts and lies can be jacked around on a 10 year old set of forged clubs. Very likely they were hit off of mats at some point in their lives ... so you'll want to have those checked out. Grooves can be worn on forged scoring clubs, especially if someone hit a lot of balls on a sandy range. Grips may need to be replaced. I've also seen more than a few iron shafts that were not straight after 10 years. There isn't a major difference. But be aware there is potential someone has done something to alter the club in a negative way over the years of smashing them into the ground and/or mat
  11. I would probably replace the wedges first, if the grooves are worn. Might as well stick with Cleveland ... RTX4's are nice. Some of the new drivers are more forgiving, like Ping G400 Max, and even more so when played closer to 44.5". Your irons are solid. Probably no rush to change those. Could be fun to add a 20 degree hybrid in there. All companies make a good one ... the Cobra F8/F9 are pretty nice out of the longer grass. Good luck.
  12. M5's are bombers, but I would think the Pings are probably a little more rewarding to play, yes? I200's do a lot of things well. It really depends on your game and what you are looking for in an iron. They will both get the job done for sure.
  13. Do you play a 330cc driver, rather than the bigger, more forgiving 460cc? There are tradeoffs to GI clubs … less workable, don't look as good to the eye, etc.. But, a Ping G410 iron is just plain going to be easier to hit for a beginner golfer than the smaller BluePrint.
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