Ger21

Try a KBS CT Tour, and you'll save yourself a few hundred $$.

What about an Atmos Tour Spec 6X?

Not much more than premium steel shafts these days, which are in the $35-$40 range. These are $45.

If you are a decent ballstriker, VR Pro blades are not hard to hit, imo. Before the VR Pro's, I played golfsmith Pro Forged blades for about 10 years, and the VR Pro's are much easier to hit. I play weekly with a guy with i500's, and he hits my VR Pro blades better than the i500's.

They pointed out on the broadcast yesterday how much swing speeds have increased in the last few years. It has nothing to do with the ball, everyone is just swinging much faster. 98% of "regular" golfers wish they could hit it farther, and people want to dial the ball back??

Looks like it might be through a few layers of paint, with the center being raw shaft? If that's the case, the paint is pretty thick. But if the shaft itself was worn, You'd probably see some fibers, or it would be a lot rougher. No mention of it in the Ebay listing? What a tool...

56° has always been my 100y full swing club, and I'd use it all the way to the green, unless I was short sided, where I'd use a 60°. This year I'm adding a gap wedge and going 58° instead of 56 & 60, so 58° will be my 100 and in club going forward. Maybe the occasional knockdown 52°.

Unfortunately, of all those dealers, only Peoples lists the Pro Iron, and he's charging $75 each, while every other online store is charging $45

I'm hoping the price drops on the 2019 balls when supplies get low. If that happens, I'll stock up.

I've managed to build a lot of clubs over the years, without a ferrule turning belt, just using rags and acetone. Once you get the hang of it, it's pretty easy, and only takes about 2 minutes/club. You really want to get all the epoxy off before it cures, so you don't have to grind it off and risk scrathcing the clubhead or ruining the ferrule. I tear paper towels into small 2" squares. After inserting the shaft, use one square to remove most of the squeeze out. Follow with another to get whatever's left. Then a quick wipe with a rag and acetone to get it squeaky clean. When it cures,

Good epoxy does not go bad in a year. I've probably bought epoxy for clubbuilding 3 times in the last 25 years, and built a few hundred clubs with it. In a cool environment, with the bottles sealed, it should easily last 5 years or more, possibly even longer. If you feel more comfortable buying new every year, then go for it. But it's not necessary at all. If you mix a batch up, and it hardens, it's still good. Simple as that.

Just to follow up, the weights I bought are actually Golfworks GW01076, and are .29" long. Longer than I was expecting.

Are you saying all the ones on Amazon listed as in stock are not actually available? Or Billy Bobs, which also appears to have them? https://store.billybobsgolf.com/product/fujikura-pro-irons/

You'll likely know just by looking at it. It's next to impossible to pull a graphite shaft without a shaft puller without ruining it. If you twist the shaft at all it'll basically unravel With a shaft puller, it should break free at the lowest possible temperature, preventing damage.

The Onyx might be a few grams heavier from the finish, but is basically the same as x100.