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  1. Those charts have been around 30 years. They may have been applicable with the shafts available back then, but not any more. Today, you can get graphite shafts that are both heavier and stiffer than steel shafts, so there's no reason they should be longer just because they are graphite.
  2. My OnOff Kuro forged (2015) have 2.5° gaps from 3-4-5, then 3° for 5-6-7, then 4° from 7-8, and 5° from 8-9-P. Just got the shafts for them today, so I'll find out in about 2 weeks how these gaps work out.
  3. One has .370 diameter straight (parallel) tip, and one has a tapered tip that's .355 diameter. Also, parallel tip shafts come in one length, and are tip trimmed incremental amounts for each iron. Taper tip shafts come in discreet lengths for each iron. Both are butt trimmed to final length. You need the correct ones to fit your heads, although you can shim .355 shafts to fit in a 370 bore hosel. The vast majority of OEM irons are taper tip. Most component manufacturers use parallel bore hosels. There are exceptions to each of these, though.
  4. Was planning on going with a simple BB&F, but they sold out before I was ready to purchase. Went with Cell Parts instead.
  5. Old persimmons from my dad's old set An old Yamaha solid composite Kevlar head from around 1990. Various Golfsmith heads over the years. Couple of early Wishon drivers. Nike SQ Machspeed Nike VR Pro LE Bridgestone XD-7 Back to Nike VR Pro LE
  6. Used to go 47 - 56 - 60, but just switched to 47 - 52 - 58. I can hit the 58 almost as far as the 56 if I need to, and the 52 fills the big gap that I had between 47 and 56.
  7. Finally got over a bad back and was able to hit the 7 iron I put together. I'm using new heads (2015 OnOff Kuro Forged), so the only thing in common with my VR Pro's was identical head weight. As several other here mentioned, it seemed to go very straight. Seemed a club longer, and slightly lower flight, but the loft is a little stronger. Nice boring trajectory on a windy day. Had no issue at all with the lighter weight. Playing it 0.75" long, same as my VR Pro. I like it a lot. So today I went to Ebay to order the rest, and found a set of pulls for $135, and ju
  8. Nothing short of a complete refinish is going to get those scratches and dents out. To remove a scratch in steel, you basically need to sand away the surrounding steel until you get to the bottom of the scratches. This will look worse than the scratches, unless you sand the entire head.
  9. My first thought as well. Much, much older than the Secret III's I played 30 years ago.
  10. Ger21

    Q Star Tour

    Played them all last summer and loved them.
  11. I just built a 7 iron to test a 95g Fujikura Pro Iron in Tour S. My normal clubs have S300 AMT Tour White, which in the 7 iron is about 120g. While the Fujikura is lighter, it's not a huge leap, and I really liked the feel and ball flight.
  12. I just built a 7 iron to test a Fujikura Pro Iron 95g shaft. The head weight is the same as my standard 7 iron with an AMT Tour White shaft. I do have some tip weights, so there may be a ±5 gram difference, and I don't have the specs handy right now. The iron with the 95g shaft is about 35 grams lighter in total weight, but the swingweight "feels" heavier. unfortunately, I don't have a swingweight scale to get actual numbers. They both have the same grips, and are the same length.
  13. Once the bond is broken, the epoxy basically turns to dust, and does not need to be heated again. But if you don't get the shaft out almost immediately, the shaft will be damaged.
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