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Ger21

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Everything posted by Ger21

  1. My current ferrules are from Cell Parts.
  2. Last night I watched Brooks Koepka hit a 9 iron to a 177 yard par 3. This is what's driving the loft jacking. Amateurs wanting to hit the ball as far as pros.
  3. There were a chain of them around the country, but I now see that they went out of business 4 years ago. So no longer an option. Your best bet would be to somehow find a machine shop owner with a love of golf that would work with you on a project.
  4. I don't think anyone will rent you time on their CNC. Unless you have a $100K(or more) machine, it's going to take a long time to mill a set of heads. Your best bet would probably be to join a techshop that has a suitable machine. You can find 1018 at a lot of places. 1020 might be a lot harder to find. The places you can get it easily are going to be quite expensive. Your best bet might be to find a small machine shop that can order it for you. Without your own machine, I think this will be a very difficult and expensive journey.
  5. Those charts have been around 30 years. They may have been applicable with the shafts available back then, but not any more. Today, you can get graphite shafts that are both heavier and stiffer than steel shafts, so there's no reason they should be longer just because they are graphite.
  6. My OnOff Kuro forged (2015) have 2.5° gaps from 3-4-5, then 3° for 5-6-7, then 4° from 7-8, and 5° from 8-9-P. Just got the shafts for them today, so I'll find out in about 2 weeks how these gaps work out.
  7. One has .370 diameter straight (parallel) tip, and one has a tapered tip that's .355 diameter. Also, parallel tip shafts come in one length, and are tip trimmed incremental amounts for each iron. Taper tip shafts come in discreet lengths for each iron. Both are butt trimmed to final length. You need the correct ones to fit your heads, although you can shim .355 shafts to fit in a 370 bore hosel. The vast majority of OEM irons are taper tip. Most component manufacturers use parallel bore hosels. There are exceptions to each of these, though.
  8. My last two rounds with Q Star Tours would prove that to be false.
  9. Was planning on going with a simple BB&F, but they sold out before I was ready to purchase. Went with Cell Parts instead.
  10. Old persimmons from my dad's old set An old Yamaha solid composite Kevlar head from around 1990. Various Golfsmith heads over the years. Couple of early Wishon drivers. Nike SQ Machspeed Nike VR Pro LE Bridgestone XD-7 Back to Nike VR Pro LE
  11. Used to go 47 - 56 - 60, but just switched to 47 - 52 - 58. I can hit the 58 almost as far as the 56 if I need to, and the 52 fills the big gap that I had between 47 and 56.
  12. Finally got over a bad back and was able to hit the 7 iron I put together. I'm using new heads (2015 OnOff Kuro Forged), so the only thing in common with my VR Pro's was identical head weight. As several other here mentioned, it seemed to go very straight. Seemed a club longer, and slightly lower flight, but the loft is a little stronger. Nice boring trajectory on a windy day. Had no issue at all with the lighter weight. Playing it 0.75" long, same as my VR Pro. I like it a lot. So today I went to Ebay to order the rest, and found a set of pulls for $135, and ju
  13. Nothing short of a complete refinish is going to get those scratches and dents out. To remove a scratch in steel, you basically need to sand away the surrounding steel until you get to the bottom of the scratches. This will look worse than the scratches, unless you sand the entire head.
  14. My first thought as well. Much, much older than the Secret III's I played 30 years ago.
  15. Ger21

    Q Star Tour

    Played them all last summer and loved them.
  16. I just built a 7 iron to test a 95g Fujikura Pro Iron in Tour S. My normal clubs have S300 AMT Tour White, which in the 7 iron is about 120g. While the Fujikura is lighter, it's not a huge leap, and I really liked the feel and ball flight.
  17. I just built a 7 iron to test a Fujikura Pro Iron 95g shaft. The head weight is the same as my standard 7 iron with an AMT Tour White shaft. I do have some tip weights, so there may be a ±5 gram difference, and I don't have the specs handy right now. The iron with the 95g shaft is about 35 grams lighter in total weight, but the swingweight "feels" heavier. unfortunately, I don't have a swingweight scale to get actual numbers. They both have the same grips, and are the same length.
  18. Once the bond is broken, the epoxy basically turns to dust, and does not need to be heated again. But if you don't get the shaft out almost immediately, the shaft will be damaged.
  19. After finally using the last of the awesome Golfsmith black epoxy, I chose the Brampton Pro Fix 20/20 Long Cure. Worked great on the first set of irons I built, then put it in the drawer for a year. This is a heated and air conditioned garage, that never gets really hot or cold. When I pulled it out to build a club the other day, the resin had turned to gel. Filled a glass with hot water from the tap, and dropped it in for 5 minutes. Another 5 minutes with fresh hot water, and back to normal. Assembled the club, and the next morning, the leftover was fully cured. No problem. You do want
  20. I've tried this a handful of times, and destroyed the shaft EVERY SINGLE TIME. Graphite is NOT durable when heat is involved.
  21. I've cut graphite shafts with my table saw or miter saw for over 25 years. Use a sharp crosscut blade, and wrap a few layers of masking tape around the shaft first, and cut it through the tape. This will keep it from splintering.
  22. You can drill the bottom of the hosel to remove weight from the head. Some OEM's use lighter weight heads for over length builds.
  23. It's going to depend on the specific shaft, but a lot of shafts are designed to swingweight to roughly the same SW, regardless of shaft weight. I'm about to build a 7i with a 95g Fujikura Pro iron shaft, and am hoping it swingweights the same as the ~125g AMT White I'm currently using. I'm 5-11, and play +3/4", and the additional swingweight doesn't bother me at all. I actually prefer it. (Not sure what it actually is, never checked it)
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