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About mvhoffman

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    Old Forge, PA
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  1. I have a very nice digital caliper. I use it for every set. They are as listed.
  2. I don't know what is wrong with me, or if there is something wrong with me, but the golf grips that I go for vary like it is going out of style. I go from regular NDMC grips to MCC+4 midsize to regular taper midsize to 58R standard on 60R shaft... it goes on and on. Now I am all about trying different types of grips and starting a few threads that I have done lately on Amazon budget grips, but I can't seem to consistently find a comfortable size grip. Currently I have a standard .60 grip on my .60 shafts but the grip feels a little thicker. When i pick up a GP TV gripped shaft
  3. seems like you may have some movement here between your hands (working in opposite directions) causing a rub. I had issues with this as well, but realized my movement was from the right hand not covering the left thumb as it should(right handed). Once I straightened the grip size out the grip has gotten better. I cut an old shaft off a few inches below the grip in order for me to have something to get some muscle memory with taking a proper grip
  4. PXG irons do not need collared ferrules. They need CENTERING ferrules. They are deeper than collared ferrules. Golfworks has specific PXG ferrules.
  5. I didn’t wear the recommended arm sleeve
  6. My thoughts as well. The +4 style grips were 75-78g while the iomic style with normal taper were 51-53g. I tried both and had the same results. I tossed a standard 52g 60R lamkin on and it got leaps and bounds better. I swapped back and forth between the two for about an hour and as stated above the midsize I’d miss while the standard would bump where it was supposed to. it was a hard working hour. When I posted above that I did it again this morning to see if it was a fluke, it wasn’t. I even tried the swap thing again this evening and the same results.
  7. I figured this was going to be one of the first responses, however my left hand was never the issue. The fault came from my right hand that is suppose to cover my left thumb essentially coming off of it's position and taking over during the swing. The larger the grip seemed to get, the more it took over. This diagram is a good starting point however there are many of us that can fall into 2 of those categories.
  8. Without this becoming a novel let me start with grip size. I used standard years ago and played my best golf. Was told by a club pro that I had a weaker grip and should switch to midsize. Switched and have been fiddling with grips ever since back and forth between standard plus wraps, midsize, +4, +2, Winn, etc. This has gone on for the past 12 years maybe. I have played good golf, bad golf, great golf and horrible golf. Over the past few years I have played consistent golf with a bad thrown in once in a while but want more good. My struggle has always been taking the club
  9. I think after all these years of playing, I need to take a lesson. For some reason I can not stop taking the club too far on the inside during my takeaway which causes an over the top move. I'm about to search some YouTube help right now but I'm going to be looking for a local teacher to get some lessons. Anyone have any good tips/swing trainers/etc?
  10. The durability is decent. Maybe a little shiny quicker than Golf Pride. I personally didn’t get along with the rubber in the area in the pic below. I actually have their midsize velvet style on my clubs now and they are very nice. They have a great feel to them. More of the softer velvet than hard. The only complaint I can give is the weight. They are 20ish grams above everyone else. The cord area is very close to the surface and unfortunately you can peel the cord after some useage. I personally will not be trying these again. In a pinch, they will work out for a bit. So
  11. How are they holding up? How do you like them? What finish did you get? Rusting on raw? Lets see some pics with responses.... Anything you don't like about them? My blades now are old school blades with a rounded leading edge as the Haywood's appear to have. Actually they really look about the same. They are held in high regards from TXG but I was wondering about some GolfWRX opinions.
  12. I had the CFS shafts originally in my i25 irons before these and they performed good, just not great. I wanted to go from S to X to help with a little lag issue on the irons (simply put I wanted to swing and not feel flex). I looked on ebay and to my surprise I found a set of 4-U AWT X shafts for $60(it was negotiated with OBO) and 2 AWT 2.0 wedge shafts for $10 each. It was meant to be. 2 weeks after switching them I shot my personal best 69 and have been dancing around and on Par since. I have been intrigued to see what a Mizuno shaft optimizer would put me in as a comparison to what i'
  13. I appreciate your reply. I actually had these irons a few years ago and they did not work out because frankly I just didn't have the game for them. The difference build wise with them from before is that I did not use the 6.0 Rifle shafts that came with them, I took them completely apart and built them onto my AWT 2.0 X shafts. Over the past few years I have tried out some different blades when coming across them and hit most of them fairly well but not as good as these. Obviously there are likely factors and attributes that I'm not seeing or not aware of with these compared to others, how
  14. I was talking about heel -> toe camber. My irons will be in the bag for a while. When replacing I will likely go with Haywood MB as they have the same shape. Really no tech advantages in blades so I’m okay playing 15 year old irons
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