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GLF4EVR

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Everything posted by GLF4EVR

  1. Have used the universal graphite extenders from GolfWorks for years. Use sandpaper to size it for the diameter of the shaft I am working on. I am always a little leery of using epoxy on the insert on my own shafts. This is due to I might change it later. Then will use tape if needed on the extension part to build it up to the diameter of the shaft. I have never had an extension fail that I have done. But did have 2 fail that were already extended when I purchased them. I admit I do not know the actual "proper" way to do this....so club-builders feel free to correct me. About 4 years ago I did one right at the 2" maximum for my neighbor. He is 6'5" & around 245-250. This one I did use epoxy on since it was at the maximum length to start with. Think Harold is on the 2nd driver head since that one, but still using the same shaft. Figure I have to be doing something right.
  2. Since no one has touched on this one...my turn. One reason for loss of distance with age is flexibility and Uncle Arthur. There are a ton of things to do for flexibility. Mine is I live in the country so have horses, chickens, barn cats & the dogs that I have to take care of every day. Another favorite of mine is tai chi. As far as Uncle Arthur, if over the counter stuff does not cut it...please visit your physician about it.
  3. Another post to let you know you are not alone. Been playing the 735cm's 3/PW for the last 4-5 seasons. I am currently 63 and my 7 iron can be 170, but it is a rarity to use it for that length. Usually use it for a 160 shot & lay off the swing just slightly (taught the clockface system). Take that distance with a grain of salt....my elevation is 3,448 feet. I could care less what someone else is hitting their specific club a specific distance. The number you put on the card is the only thing that matters. I toy with the idea off & on of looking for a set of 714/716 AP1 or AP2 clubs now & then. That thinking usually creeps in right about this time of the year. MIght be able to get one more round in this weekend before winter finally takes hold. Distance is highly over-rated, accuracy is king.
  4. Not wanting to hijack this thread, but a little different train of thought. At least five years back I came upon the superstroke slim 3.0 for my putter. Before with the everyday average grip on the putter, I was pushing & pulling enough putts to try out the superstroke grips. I could notice a definite improvement with the slim 1.0 & finally settled on the 3.0. Now if I happen to pull or push a putt, it was just due to me not focusing enough on the stroke. I have always thought one of the major reasons for the improvement was the non-taper of the grip. Now that the golf season is over for the year & have time to think about it....debating on trying the non-taper grips with all the other clubs. I don't want to put out the money that the Jumbomax cost. So, I am wondering about the mid-size non-taper Grip One's that are available on GolfWorks for about 3 bucks a grip to experiment with?
  5. If I take my normal stance...nothing changes. If I change my stance, then yes things change. All I did was change the angle of the club at address. Like toe up or down. For the sake of consistency of my swing regardless of where the position of my feet & the ball are, I do not change my body position. Like standing up straighter or leaning over more. If you do that...no problem here. I just am not going to do it cause it will lead to problems. .
  6. I can attest to that from my own work. When I did my dynamic fitting a few years ago I played around with this. I did this with an 8 iron that for me is 2* upright. With the toe up or down at address, it did not matter. I even went to change things around for an uphill lie & a downhill lie. I was in a large heated garage, so used furniture pads & other things to simulate the lie. Still did not matter, the impact line was still perpendicular to the horizon. I did expect it to be, just wanted to prove it to myself. The guy that was the owner of the place, was just as curious about it as I was when I thought of it. Science triumphs!
  7. When you switch from steel to graphite for all your iron shafts...do not try to take a hard swing at the ball.
  8. Thanks Nessism! Having someone of your club building knowledge say that registers with me. I have entertained the idea of any type of analyzer for a couple of years. I always question if it is really necessary or not. Currently I flo my shafts. With your post I now know that is about as far as I ever need to go. Appreciate it!
  9. Nike...some reason I do not get along with either their clubs or balls.
  10. Having most of my rounds this season being either A or B.....B in a heartbeat.
  11. I would have easily blown $20 on lottery tickets. Walking around lucky & actually knowing it!
  12. Did close to a 2" extension for a neighbor years back. Had to use just a little lead tape on the extension to get the SW where he wanted it. Would back up @lefthack statement.....not if done correctly. Last winter I did my set using Tuttleman's MOI equation. Some shafts already had extensions in them. I converted from 1/2" increments to 3/8". Used shaft lengths without the extensions to calculate what the actual shaft weight would be at the desired shaft length so the extensions would not throw off the desired MOI numbers.
  13. It sounds more and more like a scam in the works. Dump everything involved with it to eBay. Your case is getting better by the post....
  14. band aids, pocket knife, a 20 & 22 guage needle..great for digging out slivers, ibuprofen, a couple of hydrocode & muscle relaxers used to have super glue for split skin on the finger tips, but tube was usually shot when I went to use it (should just get a cheap tube from the dollar store at some point)
  15. With the refusal to send a picture of the "dispute", should give you a good advantage. Would think it should come out in your favor. As a buyer & seller on eBay for 20 some years, you never really know just how it will come out. Only lost one over the years. I was the buyer in that one. The vast majority have been someone just trying to milk the system to take advantage of it.
  16. Another one to say that it looks good to me. For many years I played my irons at a progressive SW point very similar to what you have. @mcounci2 suggestion of 4g of lead tape on the PW would be perfect to bring it up to a D3. Or if you want to be experiment, 3g would give you 2.5. Then try the other gram of lead tape to see if it was any better. Some people the .5 might no make any difference. Others it will. You could even try to adjust the SW on the 4i by adding some lead tape just under the grip. I cannot recall how much is needed in this area, but could get this info. in the club builder forum. I am guessing it a 5 grams for 1 SW point. Remember that shortening the wedges will decrease the SW points. Would suggest to choke down on the grips first to see how it works for you before cutting the shafts down. Also, if you did want them shorter...you can add lead tape again after they are shortened if needed to get back to a SW that works better for ya. Last season I completely overhauled my set. The irons 3-PW were converted to MOI. I used my 8 iron as the base & changed the length progressions to 3/8". Took me awhile to get used to putting the exact same swing on the 3 iron as I would with the PW. Wedges are 52 & 58 were also adjusted & really happy with the results. Towards the end of the season, it seems like I finally stumbled onto the right setting for the driver, 3 & 5 wood. Lead tape is your friend. I have not placed any of these clubs on my SW scale & do not even want to.....out of sight, out of mind.
  17. Since it already in a PW, you should not have to think about tip trimming. It should strictly be the grip (butt), end. As others have stated, need to use the right equipment to trim it. Chop saw with an abrasive disk, angle grinder with an abrasive disk, dremel with an abrasive disk...kind of see the pattern here. If it is not much to trim, can use a bench top grinder even.
  18. Middle school was 6th thru 9th grade. By 8th grade you could go out for high school golf. This was 1972...it's still the same today.
  19. Our range is sandwiched in between the first & ninth fairways. This happens quite often. I would just hit along with the range balls. Emptied out my bag & locker this weekend of found Pro V's out on the course. At home I now have a 5 gallon bucket over half full of Pro V X's & another around 3/4"s full of Pro V's. Needless to say......I don't really need to bag one from the range balls.
  20. TaylorMade R580 Have tried 4 different 3 woods & the R580 stays in. Season is about over, but just shafted up a Sim 3 wood to take a shot at the title next season.
  21. Question....don't the ones in Scotland have less density to them? Would think having these mowed around a 6" height might be more appropriate. Could even be shorter if the grass is very dense.
  22. Used old Vokey oil can wedges for years with a 52/8 & 58/8. Late last season went to new SM8's with an M grind 52/12 & F grind 58/12. I have really liked this new set. Find it easier to pick a ball from a tight lie, hardpan & our packed sand traps than the old Vokeys. Plus, I can square the face out of a trap with little effort to get the ball out. About the only negative I have noticed is if I have a wet lie, I can take enough turf to make a blue plate special if I don't pay attention. I would give that about a .5 on the 1 to 10 scale on negative scores.
  23. When I take a practice swing(s), it is usually just to get the right feel for my tempo. I try not to think of it being the exact swing I need to make when over the ball. If it is a rare time that I am trying to shape a shot, this may be the time that I try to focus more on the repeating swing. Otherwise, just like @lefthack stated.....square up, picture the shot & hit it.
  24. Hoping to squeeze a few more rounds in before the ground gets hard. During the winter is when I tend to tinker with my clubs, however this winter will be different. Winter of 2019/2020 was changing from steel to graphite in the 3-PW irons & a "new" driver. My hands were the most appreciative of the switch to graphite. I built the irons to match the SW of the previous set. Noticed a big improvement in accuracy, but distance was usually short with the occasional long ball. Last winter I did an MOI conversion with the irons using my 8 iron as my base club. From there I changed the lengths to a 3/8" increment from the 1/2" that they used to be at. This season I came close 3 times to tying my best ever score by one stroke. By biggest learning curve this year was to try and loose the caveman mentality with hitting an iron shot. If I tried to put too much into the shot it was not a pretty sight to behold (unless you were the opposition). Just a nice controlled tempo swing is the trick. Plus, the distance was back to what I had with steel shafts. Being 63, don't know how much longer it will last (but not going to look the gift horse in the mouth either). About the only thing this winter has is changing grips. The current ones have gone about 4 seasons. Shows how much I am able to get out.
  25. Too much math & science on my end. I have always looked at the swing as an act of centrifugal force.
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