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BST Revoked
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Everything posted by joelco

  1. I have the same issue regularly. I also sometimes get a little bit on the other side of the ferrule where the ferrule and the shaft meet. My OCD is bothered by this as well, but I have just come to the conclusion that I should clean it up as much as possible when the epoxy is still wet and then accept the results with the understanding that clubmaking is not about perfection. Maybe the imperfection just creates a little character. (shoulder shrug)
  2. This is pure insanity! What is this? Ben Hogan's modern driver? Also, I love it.
  3. In my experience, I have found that the stiffer and lower torque in the shaft, the more the ball wants to go left? I have always had an easier time hitting slices with a lighter flex shaft. Am I wrong about something here because that's just what I've noticed?
  4. Maybe I'm just clueless, but can you tell me what you mean by "hit them with the rust juice"?
  5. What would be the purpose of hickory dowels in your 962 irons? And where exactly might you acquire such dowels?
  6. Now that we are firmly planted in an era with no spikes on golf shoes, it occurs to me to ask why we still have shoes that are specific for golf? It seems that any shoe with a grippy bottom that is comfortable for walking should work well for golf. After purchasing golf shoes for years, I recently decided to zag and got some Nike Waffle-soled sneakers. I like the style and price better than any other golf shoes I could find. Does anyone else use non-golf shoes for golf? Why/why not?
  7. I agree that swing speed vanity seems to be fueling this trend to a point. However, shaft flex is almost always a trade-off between distance and control. If you are more concerned with distance, go softer. And if you are more concerned with control, go stiffer. I also agree that shaft manufacturer's flex profiles could be shifting the same way that clothes sizes have changed throughout the years to accomodate the modern person's vanity. I've always heard women say that a size 0, 2, or 4 is not the same as it once was and I somehow still wear the same size 32 waist at age 41 that I did when I was in high school. And I can guarantee that my waist is not the same size as it was in high school!
  8. Styles always change ... coming and going and then coming back around ... I was born in '80. We wore crew length socks with shorts like all the cool kids when I was a teenager, but in college the style changed to no-shows. Now I'm seeing all the cool kids wearing crew length again. Soon enough the style will change again. To each his own.
  9. That's not good luck. That's great luck! Gotta stay on your toes to find a deal like that! Well done
  10. Where did you find a deal like that?!?!?
  11. Undoubtedly you probably know someone who dabbles in clubmaking. I would just give them away to that person. They probably can use them for a regrip or reshaft job eventually. They may also offer to do some future work for you in exchange. Just my 2 cents.
  12. If the club is stock swingweight at D4, you can cut 1/2" and only go down to D1. That is still within standard swingweights for men's clubs (which generally range from D0 to D5). Women's clubs usually swingweight down to around C7 off the rack, so you could cut an inch and it still feel decent enough. I think it's important for the OP to know the details of what is happening with his modifications. But unless the OP is very sensitive in his feel for these changes, it's likely he can make minor modifications to meet his preferences and the club will retain it's playability.
  13. Removing length from the butt end of the shaft alone will reduce the swingweight by three points for every 1/2" removed. Butt trimming alone will also cause the shaft to play stiffer than what you have now. But, you can add lead tape to the head (you need two grams of lead tape to add 1 swing weight) to restore the original swing weight. This is simple enough and very common practice among novice clubmakers. Here's the big HOWEVER: By adding weight back to the head and restoring the original swingweight, you have now made the shaft play at a lighter flex. This may be okay with you, but it may not. If you want to retain the current shaft stiffness, you must remove the head and trim the shaft from the tip end. Then when you add enough weight back to the head to retain the original swingweight, you will also be retaining the original shaft stiffness as well. Hope this helps you understand what is happening. Joel
  14. You can always take out offset by bending the irons weak. That's what I do with my 712s.
  15. Hey I got a 12-pack of .335 ferrules from golfworks and I have had several that were too tight to slide on the shaft during installation. They would barely get started on the shaft and then get stuck before I could get the clubhead started to set them. Can anyone offer insight here? I'm not an old veteran clubmaker, but I've installed a bunch of shafts and never experienced anything like this. Could it be a bad batch?
  16. I took my 712 mb irons and bent them 2* weak. 1. Reduced offset 2. Added bounce 3. Added height to traj I think they call that the holy trinity.
  17. I have some old wilson irons that I have been trying to remove the heads from. I got 2-4 but cannot get the 5 iron head off. I've heated it enough to break the epoxy and I can get the head to twist about a 1/4 inch, but it's stuck other than that. Can you tell me what method uses a wood block?
  18. My input doesn't mean $#!+, but you should not replace that bag with a moonlite. This old one has way more character and only cost you $10. Stick with IT!
  19. Hey Everyone - Question for discussion here: I have recently acquired some steel iron shafts that were left in the weather for a while and have developed some rust. They are high quality shafts (Rifle Precision 6.5, Dynamic Gold s-300s and x100s, and Hogan Apex 5) and I would like to use them in the future. I cleaned them up but they had some pitting on the chrome. Also it's clear they are rusted on the inside of the shaft, but it's hard to determine how much. Does anyone have any input on how much rust is too much rust when it comes to a steel shaft. Aside from the cosmetics, how much risk is there of compromise in the shaft going forward? Follow up question, what can be done to prevent the rust from further decaying the steel moving forward? I know keeping them clean and dry, but what about the inside of the shaft? Would it make sense to oil a cloth and pull it through the shaft as a rust remover/preventer? Or would the oil potentially compromise the epoxy used to install the club head? Would love to have a discussion with you guys about these shafts?
  20. Oh man! That's a good one! I came for the pictures and I was not disappointed.
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