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  1. One complicating factor: Are you talking traditional hybrids - yes, we're there - or iron-replacement (IR) hybrids? Traditional hybrids fall between fairway woods and numbered long irons in lofts and shaft length. Example: The Cobra FlyZ hybrids: 3H = 19* loft and 40.5" shaft. Comparable FlyZ+ Forged 3i had 20* loft and 39" shaft. So, you would have to test out the traditional hybrids to find where the natural replacement/gapping would fall. On the other hand, the recent Mizuno FLI-HI hybrids are iron-replacement design. The FLI-HIs often match up well with the JPX iron models of t
  2. The head teaching pro at a local golf club explained one benefit of adjustable long clubs: Golf shops need to carry less inventory. If a player gets fitted for a driver, she can often take the loft up or down a degree or swap out shafts to get the golfer the best numbers. (This assumes average - not scratch - golfers). So, point-of-purchase tweaks are where a lot of the adjustments get made. As for adjustable irons, remember that driver weights can cost anywhere from $10 to $30 each. How much would weight sets cost for seven or eight irons?
  3. I carry a 4H, and swing it like a medium iron (hit down slightly). If I tee it up 1/8", I get a lower, hotter shot (usually for tight par 4). If I tee it up 1/4", I get a higher, softer shot (for par 3 tee shots).
  4. GolfWorks has bread crumbs. https://www.golfworks.com/paderson/c/10298/ But, /10298/ image does does not link to specific product info.
  5. Last season I started re-doing my long clubs. This is what I had in play before re-do: 4W - 205 yards 7W - 190 yards \ 3H - 185 yards / 4H - 175 yards The 7W-3H was the cross-over point. 7W launched higher, and blew ball out of medium rough with gusto. 3H launched lower - helpful in winter winds - and came out of lighter winter rough OK. The two clubs split time depending on the season. You need to do a side-by-side to see what gapping works best. And, you need a gapping mix you as a unique golfer can actually hit. The 3W + 3H pair gets you m
  6. Eight-year-olds are kids. They have to learn bogies with the birdies. Is the kid into tournaments as much as your are?
  7. I'm not a long-ball hitter, and get ~98 yards from my 48° wedge. (48 replaces 46° PW and 50° GW.) I can get a couple extra yards if I play 48° an inch back (deloft). 54° SW full good for 85 yards. // 58° LW good for 50 yards on 3/4 swing... old 60* too inconsistent for more than half swing.
  8. You propose to your fiancèe, and she asks for an engagement ring. You tell her, "Go get fitted!"
  9. Strike consistency? You might try this before you spend a lot of $$. Put an impact decal on the face of your 3W. Hit 10 shots and see where the impacts fall. If impact points are all over the face, possibly the shaft is too long. (This is a basic check suggested by the GolfWorks schools.)
  10. You're right. They reversed the nines, so old No. 3 is now No. 12 // Old No. 14 is now 5. Landing area has an uphill slope, and can kick ball left or right sometimes into shabby rough. Your plan would work in summer, but right now we're facing quartering tail wind that makes judgment iffy.
  11. A couple of years back, I played with a young assistant pro from another course. Our course was hosting the Player Ability Test for PGA certification later that month. He carried a 2H and a 4H, and no fairway wood. On two of our shorter par 5 holes, he had more than enough distance with the hybrids to get home in two. He said fairway woods had always been a problem for him, and he didn't feel he lost anything by not carrying one. As for you, you don't have nearly the distance of that assistant pro. As far as a fairway wood off the deck, you might try a 4W. A little extr
  12. Yes, everything is a trade off. Case in point is former small-college golfers I have met. During intercollegiate competition, they played bladish irons at scratch HDCP. But after graduation to a wife, kids, and a full-time job, they found their HDCPs starting to rise with the blades. The reason: they don't have time to keep their swings blade-ready. They switched to Players D or GI irons, and their HDCPs and scores started to fall. @bladehunter, you made solid arguments on iron heads based on performance. Further, you acknowledged that everything is a trade-off. The GolfWorks Acade
  13. Decision factor: where does the ball go when you hit it with Model X irons? I will replace my irons this season, or next season if the supply chain doesn't loosen up. In rough fittings, I did a side-by-side test with the Callaway Mavrik (basic) and Mavrik Max irons. Base Mavrik has a smaller head, but rather strong lofts. Mav 7i = 27*, Max 7i = 30*. But, I hit the ball a club longer and noticeably higher with the Max than the base Mav. And both clubs had the Catalyst 65 (R) shaft. And, in an odd shakeout, the suggested Mav family combo iron set has Mav Pros
  14. As far as chipping goes, learn how execute a chip and run. Take a 7i or maybe a PW, and learn how to drop the ball onto the green and get it rolling. A lot more reliable than a high-lofted wedge shot. One thing that worries me about my fellow American golfers is that too many are addicted to the LW. It is a difficult club to master, and once mastered it is still not the best club for all shots. I saw this on the women's side in the 2014 Curtis Cup. I served as a crowd marshal for these matches between the American and UK/Irish amateurs. Several times the Americans would
  15. It goes in phases. If you're shooting in the 90s, you need to learn to put your tee shots in the fairway, and avoid short-game errors. But, research shows that short game is overrated for non-beginners. Basically, a poor short game can cause you to score badly. But, to really score well and get into the 70s you need to work on your approach shots. If you're finally getting into the fairway off the tee, you need to increase GIR to really take the next step. If you increase your GIR, you're having more birdie putts or mid-length putts to salvage par. Also, more of your mi
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