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ChipNRun

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  1. Related to this topic: What's Your Iron Type?, in September 2020 Golf Digest, pp. 30-32. Mike Stachura has a scratch and a 15-HDCPer test out blades vs. CBs... check out the scatter diagrams! (Article still embargoed online, that's why no link.)
  2. Even during normal times, Ping has a reputation for using "lag sizzle" on custom orders. They want customers to long for the new clubs!
  3. Is there any way you could hit something beside 7-iron shots? That's one thing I miss about demo days and expos.
  4. Two options... 1. Check out the Tour Edge CBX family of hybrids. The TE reps bill these as left-proof, and available used. 2. Get a more helpful shaft for your U45 driving iron. My "driving iron" is the 4i from my CBP set, refitted from KBS Tour to a SteelFiber 780 HLS hybrid shaft (about 18 grams lighter). New shaft helps out on launch, smooths out shots with longer club.
  5. If your cousin has a hard-left swing, you efforts may be for naught. Horrific temper can get in the way of being good amateur. Reminds me of my adventures with Mr. Smoke. Two years ago, I end up in a group with "Mr. Smoke" at a local senior league championship. My cart partner and I get delayed at the turn trying to buy Gatorade, and take about 10 minutes to get to No. 10 tee. Mr. Smoke is ready to go, yells at us, and hooks a drive deep into the treelined hazard. We hit our drives, and Mr. Smoke hooks a second drive deep into the hazard. He hands in the scorecard he is
  6. Tour Edge is top notch for customer service. They have a 30-day money back guarantee if you don't like the product, and a lifetime warranty on the club if if you keep it. TE also pioneered the cup-face technology in modern FWs. As for hybrids, if you want something "hook-proof", look at TE's CBX line. This fall I snapped the shaft on an XRail 7 wood from 2013. I shipped the club to TE ($20 UPS), and TE put in a new shaft and new grip and had it back to me in 10 days.
  7. @MtlJeff The Mav MAX driver promo says it offers either slight draw or MAX draw for trajectory. Can you hit a fade if necessary? The reason I ask: I play a draw, but get it with a slightly closed stance. On my Calla XR16 Pro, I played +1 degree on loft, had N(eutral) lie angle, had the grip adjusted so head lined up about 1* open. This produced a nice, smooth draw. I can also hit a fade (usually) from an open stance. Have you had any experience with the base Mav (slight draw) or the SubZero (neutral)?
  8. Sand choice has become a new influence on bounce for bunker clubs. Many golf courses are going to medium-heavy and heavy sand in their bunkers rather than lighter or powdery sand... heavier sand resists wind scatter better, and is cheaper. Two local pros both say they now use mainly S-grind (Callaway) or similar. One says he still uses a high bounce when he plays certain courses in the area which still have lighter sand. I consider myself to have a rather "middle-middle" divot and downswing angle, but Callaway wedge selector has started recommending S-grind across the b
  9. If I play a par 3 course, I trim down the bag. I'll usually take 5i-9i, PW and SW, putter and my driver . (The long driver shaft serves as a handle so I can balance the bag as I walk.)
  10. Maybe 12 years ago, people who caved in driver heads were usually big hitters swinging XS shafts. The past five years, I have heard of more and more people cracking the heads of drivers and even fairway woods. Most frequent incidents involve TM and Callaway. These incidents involved people who were medium to hard swingers, not just the big hitters. With ever thinner faces, this may have some effect on the durability of the clubheads. And it's not just long clubs. I've seen comments on GolfWRX on iron heads breaking also.
  11. In the Srixon Shaft Replacement charts, the cells are blank for 2009 Z Steel fairway wood hosel and butt diameter. If you have the wood on hand, take it to a golf shop and have them measure the tip with their gauge. Most drivers and woods are .335, but on occasion a company makes a long club with the old 0.350 hosel.
  12. Many of the "try and return" options are determined by the manufacturers. For Callaway... Callaway Pre-Owned has a 90-day buyback policy. It delivers a CPO in-store credit depending on how long you kept the clubs. Thirty days or less is 90%, and so on. New Callaway equipment purchases have full refund for unused equipment, and a store credit with no expiration date for items you use. Tour Edge has a money-back guarantee for 30 days if you don't like the new product. IF a golf course sells a model and carries it as a rental set, sometimes you can arrange with the pro
  13. Similar background. I'm an old caddie from 1960s-70s who first played with a true "mixed bag" of golf clubs. True story: My younger brother got it for us when he traded the trash man our last functioning tricycle for a bag of about a dozen clubs, two irons which had hickory shafts! The bag contents covered a 50-year span of golfing gear. Anyway, my first "new" set was 1971-model MacGregor MT "flat sole" forged blades. Played them from 1974 to 1994. Clubs worked pretty well in years I could play six times a month, not so well in lean years. You needed a well-tuned swing for them to
  14. My iron set came with a 22* 4i. I refitted from KBS Tour 90-R (about 95 grams trimmed) to a SteelFiber HLS 780 hybrid shaft (R, 75 grams). I use this primarily as a driving iron for tight holes where a driver would bypass the landing area. Also good on longish par 3 holes where a hybrid could fly the green. It carries about 170-180, and will run out another 15 yards or so. From the tee, I tee it about 1/4" high and swing it like a driver. If I'm swinging well, I can also hit it from a good fairway lie.
  15. Yes! The correct calculation is: {5i Distance} x 36 = recommended yardage distance. And, good angle from smash: Jack Nicklaus now agrees with you on this. In an interview he said that he used to have up to six tee boxes on courses he designed. Now he usually has just four, because with six boxes people can't tell much difference in yardage and play too far back.
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