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Everything posted by ChipNRun

  1. You would need to do a side-by-side to see which works best. Some players prefer higher lofted FWs such as 5 - 7 - 9. Hybrids 3 - 4 - 5 are more popular with some, provided they can hit the 3H. Not everyone can hit a 3H that well. One key point: If you struggle with a 3W, try a 4W or 5W for your distance club. The shorter shafts and greater loft make them easier to hit than a 3W. Many mid-HDCP golfers will go with a single 4W or a 5W, and a couple of hybrids. Or, like me: 4W + 7W + 4H. Other factors... FWs tend to work better with a sweep swing, where
  2. It's a tie between two clubs: Rogue 7W: 21° loft, PX EvenFlow Green 5.5-R / 65 gram shaft. Although shaft is a bit heavier than driver or 4W, it has excellent balance and really jumps through the ball. Great for getting ball out of medium rough, and with fade can hold green on approaches and long par 3 holes. Also can find fairway on certain tight landing areas. Happy mix: mid-high shot that does not balloon. CB Pro Tungsten 7i: 34°, KBS Tour 90 R-flex, about 98 grams, with 3 grams lead tape 2" below grip on underside of shaft. I have lead tape on 7, 8 and 9i to make s
  3. Another downside of loft-jacking. GolfWorks founder and club designer Ralph Maltby discussed a related point on shift in demo irons to easier-to-hit lofts, which have now elevated to 7 irons:
  4. IF the ZX7 PW gaps well for distance for 50* and 54*, I'd say keep it as is. A "good deal" isn't that good if it doesn't directly fix a problem.
  5. If you can't hit a strong 3W off the deck, join the crowd. And a normal 3W of 15* is problematic. Multiple studies show that most golfers can hit a 4W more reliably - and sometimes just as long - as a 3W. Extra loft helps launch and a shorter shaft helps control. I confess I'm partial. I'm entering my eleventh season of some combo of 4W + 7W. (For you, a 4w + Heavenwood might be... well... heaven!) I do have some overlap. The 4H goes about 10 yards longer and launches higher than my 4i... 4H quite good for approaches into elevated green. The 4i is refitted with a hybri
  6. ZX7 irons have the beveled Tour VT sole. The sole has higher bounce on leading edge and lesser trailing edge bounce. Basically, moderate anti-dig. So, the set PW would be anti-dig in its turf interaction. Vokey SM8 46*/10 is an F grind with a medium amount of bounce. Since you also use PW as a 10-iron for full shots, consider keeping set PW unless it just doesn't work on bump-and-run. What brand/model/loft are your G, S and L wedges?
  7. Callaway, Ping, TaylorMade, Titleist, Mizuno, Srixon... all the bigger volume OEMs offer driving irons, crossovers, etc. PXG has loyal users, but niche market presence at best... Parsons and crew probably figured it wasn't worth the hWord not allowedle of trying to chip DI market share from biggies. Of all the subdivisions of golf clubs, I'd say the driving iron/crossover creates the lowest volume of excitement. Well, at least among people who have to buy their own clubs. Too many people are learning they can take a GI 3i or 4i from last cycle and reshaft it for DI use.
  8. Many people struggle with driver, but not everyone. Here are observations on why some people - everyday golfers - have trouble with the driver. Shaft is too long. The longer-shafted drivers of the early 2000s promised more distance due to more leverage. But, there's a tradeoff between shaft length and accuracy. The GolfWorks Academy recommends this test for people who are spraying their driver shots: Put an impact decal on your driver face. Hit 10 shots. If the impact points are all over the face, chances are the shaft is too long. Loft is too low. Some players assume t
  9. One approach to hitting wedge shots is called engage the bounce. Here is an excerpt from an April thread post I made on the topic: For full discussion thread, see:
  10. I would suggest you're talking in part about differences in human physique. Factors such as joint structure and wrist mobility influence how the swing plays out best for each individual. As a child I played baseball for five years before I ever touched a golf club. As a result, I ended up with very fast hands on the forward swing. Thus, I need to lead with a solid hip turn so my hands don't get out ahead and deliver Jordan Spieth-style super pulls. Hip turn gives me best timing and ensures decent lower body power comes into play. For my swing, I described the traditi
  11. Spinal tilt, arm length, and swing plane dictate what lie you need. That's why dynamic lie checks are important (you hit balls rather than stand still for some wrist to whatever measure) The old wrist-to-floor measure is a good place to start for iron fittings, but you don't want to bend lie angles or buy clubs based on this alone. Again, hit some balls to find the best solution.
  12. Do a side-by-side with your driver and 7i vs. newer equipment. What do the numbers say? Another factor is your chronological age. If you built the irons at age 30, and you're over 50 now, a fitting would tell you if the shafts are still best for you. I played stiff shafts of S300 genre until I was almost 60, and started having major falloff in yardage. I shifted to newer irons with lighter shafts, and it really stabilized my average distance and iron play. One thing definitely to check out: Your wedges... fresh grooves will help out your short game, deliver
  13. Is rolling right hand over different from rolling the forearms? One pro talked about rolling forearms open, and rolling closed on downswing. As you say, rolling hand "requires a great deal of timing." I get good right hand action if I "work the right side under," as the golf tips say. If the left hand/arm doesn't lead from top, a heavy right hand can cause problems: a Jordan Spieth spin-out pull, or a downward chop an inch behind the ball. (The chop often moves dirt farther than the ball!) ------------------ Side note: It's been a wild spring here for area teaching pros,
  14. The Tour Edge CBX and CBX.119 were touted by reps as being left-proof. Solid selection of shafts, CBX has PX HZRDU Black and Kuro Kage Silver // in CBX.119 EvenFlow replaces Kuro Kage. Both models have bonded heads (non-adjustable) in 1-degree loft increments, 16* to 22* (no 21*).
  15. A decade ago, I was working with a pro that was big on proper hand loading. I was starting to get some results from the sessions. Later that season, I had a fitting with another pro at a local golf shop. He straightened out my fairway woods and found me a hybrid I could hit. But, he questioned how handsy my swing was. He switched me over to a more hip turn, quiet-hands swing which he said would improve my consistency. The first season I was playing a lot and it worked fairly well. But in the next couple play was spotty, and I went into a slump. This coincided with hip a
  16. I would suggest that Tour pros and average golfers have different reasons for short-pin problems. Tour pros hit the ball in with quite a bit of backspin, and may spin back off if the green has a false front of any kind. And, at the Palmetto the players were dumping shots into the front bunker on a par 3 with a short pin. Too many of the pros are afraid to hit a stiff-wristed draw that would hit the front fringe and release forward 10 yards onto the green. For average golfers, I would agree more club is needed. Overestimating how far a normal (not dead-solid-perfect) 7i shot goes is
  17. GolfWRXers: If your driver play is hot and cold, or just not quite there, consider getting a tune-up session for your current driver. From the launch data, you may find that raising or lowering loft a degree, or choking down a half inch to flatten lie, may noticeably improve your driver performance. Half the time when I had tee shot problems, the solution has been better settings - not a new driver.
  18. If you regularly break 80 and putt well, it's likely not an issue of course management. It's probably a soft iron game. The way to get more GIR is to improve your approach shots. Good putting can help prevent scoring poorly... But to play scratch golf you need to drop quite a few approaches inside 10 yards each round. How to improve approach shots: work some on good set-up and mechanics on the range. Then, on slow afternoons, go out on the course and work on a couple of holes for a half-hour each. Hit a few from the light rough about 170 yards out, a few from
  19. That's a pretty tall order. Are you implying that the Moe Norman method is a hoax? One local pro and clubsmith is also is a high school coach with generally successful teams. He understands a number of different swing philosophies, and can help players develop to their tendencies. He's not a "one best way" instructor. Among the philosophies, he understands the Norman/Natural Golf philosophy and swing. He says that several golfers have come up with a Normanesque tendencies on their own, and he has helped them to refine the approach. Also, I have com
  20. Reminds me of 2016 when I struck it lucky and got to attend PGA Merchandise Show as a correspondent for another golf blog. On Tuesday, I arrived pre-lunch at the Ben Hogan test site. No one was there except for me and two Hogan reps! This was when Hogan had resurrected, and was offering to build an iron set with one-degree loft increment from 20° to ~4°. After hitting a couple of iron models, I came up with this conceptual plan for me: build a set with 22° - 27° - 32°... and then 4° loft increments up through LW. With 5° longer-iron loft increments, I could squeeze out
  21. Best performing for whom? If this was true, why are so many PGA Tour player not playing PXGs? Does it matter if you get fitted for a PXG model, or does any shaft work in these models? Has a golfer using TaylorMade or Callaway irons ever beaten a golfer playing PXG irons?
  22. I have been playing the BIONIC StableGrip for several years. These are thicker than normal, have padding on fingers and a stitched slot in the palm to lay the grip across. Good anchor for clubs. These cost about $26 each, and are very durable. Two of these will last me a season of something golfish twice a week. I wash them a couple of times with saddle soap during season to keep soft and tacky. These remind me of handball gloves which some of used down in Oklahoma years ago. A local sports shop was going out of business, and a co-worker bought a box of 12 left-handed h
  23. You have my sympathy... I only have angle of attack issues... --------------- Seriously, a person who can benefit most from low-spin has high clubhead speed. Thus, they will probably want a more aggressive head to be able to work ball. But they still want to avoid the hard-to-hit driver. Past threads on the TM SLDR driver address this. Some people found this club to be the ultimate rocket off the tee - on days they could control it. Others dumped SLDR for lack of reliability. (P.S. SLDR irons were great... they're in my backup bag.)
  24. Yes. G400 Max costs $229 new, ~ $180 used. The G425 Max costs $299. (Note: No Max option in G400).
  25. Part of it depends on how you use your wedges. If you mainly hit square-face wedge shots, grind will matter less. In a sense, it's error control. Most of all, you want to avoid grinds you just can't hit. In the previous century, I played MacGregor MT flatsole blades. The set contained a 10i instead of a PW. The 10i was great for shots off the fairway and out of light rough. but it didn't always work well for touch shots around the green. The sharp, iron-like leading edge would bite too much and often come up short. It didn't have much bounce. I found I did better close-
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