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  1. I’ve hit my TS3 probably 200 times with no weight cartridge in place and it’s had no ill effect on the head. I’m not fast by some Wrxers standard, but I can get clubhead speed into the low-mid 120s so I’m no slouch either. Sound without the cartridge seemed a bit tinny-er, but wasn’t terrible. This is might not be relevant to you, but at least with my TS3 the screw has a hole clear through it, rendering it illegal for competition per usga rules. A small piece of lead tape covering that hole would theoretically make it legal again I believe if your planning to compete in a major am
  2. Depending on how light you are talking about, Mizuno and, I think, Titleist, have lighter “B weight” heads for over length builds. You could possibly get a set of those mounted to standard length light-weight shafts and get what you’re looking for. Obvious not a massive difference, but grams matter.
  3. For anyone following this thread, definitely defer to @Stuart_G as he’s one of the masters on this forum. But my experience was that removing a bunch of weight from the head to get the swing weight back down to where I’ve played it previously resulted in a less stable club. I found my best results by trying to get the total weight of the club roughly the same as what I was used too rather than trying to chase a swing weight value. Again, this is just my personal anecdote not a universal rule. I will stick by my statement that if you’re trying something radically different
  4. I’d focus more on the total weight than the swing weight for an over length build. At 48” unless you have a wicked light (or very counter-balanced) shaft and head, the swing weight is going to be high, that’s just part of the territory. But if you can keep the overall weight relatively sane you’ll have an easier time, at least that’s the advice I got from my go to club guy. For reference my driver is clocking in at D9.8 these days whereas my decade-long gamer, a 910D3 with a shorter heavier shaft, came in at D6.5. The overall weight stayed roughly the same though ~335g. Long story
  5. Can we get a NSFW tag on this or something? Man I want this, old school Cameron mid-slants are my cuppa tea.
  6. I just went through this exact process you are describing. I had been playing my driver at 44.5" for a decade and have a reasonably sound swing that allows me to find the center fo the club face almost all of the time. My misses are primarily due to face angle rather than impact location. I took the exact setup I was using and bought a raw uncut version of the same shaft and put it into play (just short of 48") with the intent of working my way towards a shorter length to see what I could control. I don't have a physics model to answer some of your questions about head-weight, ene
  7. Not trying to be snarky, I promise, but have you tried just choking down a touch on a driver and making a 75% swing? Driver heads these days are seemingly all low-spin and forgiving, just to various degrees. I’ve always found a bunt driver to be a more reliable fairway finder than a 3 wood. Even as a higher-speed/spin player I never find myself wishing I had less spin on a fairway wood as then they’d be less versatile out of the fairway/rough or off the tee when I have a narrow distance target.
  8. Whichever one makes you want to practice when you see it. Get something that you like looking at so much you can’t stand the idea of walking past without rolling a few. All the good putters I know love putting and love their stick.
  9. I assume you know this, but the red-saw spin milled are non-conforming clubs. If you aren't playing in serious tournaments, who really cares, but just an FYI. That general sole shape is representative of the T/L/M/V (least to most bounce) family from Vokey - all featuring aggressive trailing edge and heel/toe relief. The old spin milled predates labeled grinds, so it is hard to say for sure, but 8* of bounce (the .08 in 58.08) lines up with the M grind offerings which typically have, you guessed it, 8* of bounce. For someone with a relatively shallow angle of attack b
  10. Mizuno MP68s bent weak (my PW sits at 50*). I like having a little bit of extra bounce on the Mizuno soles and the reduced offset suits my eye.
  11. 37.5* loft, 168 carry, KBS Tour 130x
  12. There just aren't many people our there making golf equipment other than the big names. Those that do exist usually place themselves in the super-premium category, so I'd just set your expectations that going local for golf equipment is going to be expensive. Most of the small-shops seem to focus on putters and accessories (grips, head covers, etc.), probably because the manufacturing is relatively straightforward compared to irons and especially woods. Here are the ones I know of based in Texas: Ben Hogan - Basically a big brand. While they have a HQ in Fort Worth and assem
  13. I've owned both but kept the ZF. They are both great shafts made with excellent materials and I don't think one is inherently higher launch, lower spin, more forgiving, etc. than the other - I think it really just comes down to what feel you prefer and how that feel influences the dynamics of your swing. For me, the Ventus Black felt more linear and less active. It is by no means a boardy piece of rebar, it feels great, but I didn't sense really a definite load/unload of the shaft. The Diamana ZF on the other hand has a much more pronounced kick. I've always skewed towards a mid-be
  14. The ProV1/x have been the best I've found. Seems like the times I get scuffs on those these days is if I hit the cart path. I've even drilled a few into trees and had the cover come out discolored but unscathed. A ball will still look a little rough around the edges by the end of the round, but it is a long way from urethane balls of years past or some competitors where having groove marks after a single full wedge shot wasn't uncommon.
  15. I've owned a blue and black. Undeniably they are really, really good products, but I don't think they are inherently superior to the other super-premium offerings out there.
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