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  1. Throw in a modus 130X or 125X and that would likely not happen. Keep in mind the shaft you play is fighting against your overspin and not helping it. with that being said, I am a super high spin player and instead of worrying about it I work super hard on trajectory/spin control (shaft and lofts are optimized). There are days and conditions where that spin will be the envy of everyone else and lead to way more close approaches. fairways/greens brotha man!
  2. I actually just had a NOS Tour S Rustique built by ping with a modus 130 and Half Moon grind. Near perfection.
  3. I have gamed for about 4 years (now second set) iblades and can say my prior i20 are only lesser acoustically (both with modus 130X). The sound and feel of the i210/iblade is I think a lot better but performance wise I could easily game my i20s. From a distance control aspect they’re as good as any CB.
  4. I bounce between my Custom WRX-made Vault Anser 2 (w/ Soundslot) and Starshot 1966 Anser 2 (Depending on the time of year & weather). Both set to 35-340, D3 SW, and black dot 70* lie angle.
  5. I210 for sure if you ask me. They are cast and more durable but honestly feel softer than many forged clubs. Plus I don’t think you will find a more consistent cavity for distance control. Coming from forged Titleist/Mizuno models most recently I can say it’s no step back.
  6. Go Giants! As a huge ping guy they should be able to work on these as long as you are OK with the swingweight coming back a tad lower. Usually with older models with raw stainless the reason they will not refinish is a lack of weights/badges to reassemble the sticks. Good luck! I have refinished 5-6 ping eye2 gorge wedges which turned out more than flawless.
  7. Man I was going to post this exact same thread because I experienced the same thing - my 910D3 with (legit not ‘made for’) 70X kai’li has been in the bag without change For 8 years now! It’s the best club I’ve ever owned as far as distance and consistency, which is crazy considering it’s the first with an adjustable hosel and was rushed into retail after the 909D. All things considered I’m a 1.2 index and have hit everything at my country club with similar set up and nothing can compare. When you find a set up that works, just keep it going. I also have a near mint 910D3 head with exact sa
  8. I got to do a quick sample of golf with the new AVX ball a couple weeks ago. Just as a TLDR since this post is long... im a 2 handicap (could be scratch if I didn’t work so dang much) this is the one tour ball I just don’t think I can game due to inconsistent and sometimes lacking short game spin. After playing 36 with the AVX here’s a more in-depth description of my experience. First, the short shot (150 and in) performance was remarkably inconsistent. I carried a couple 54 degree wedges 125 yards when it’s almost always around 114-118 depending on time of year/heat. I am actually a pretty
  9. I’m a 2 handicap and play 716 TMB 3-pw with Nippon Modus 130x. They’re (de)lofted the same as the 716 AP2 set and I’ve never had a problem with spin or nuclear short clubs... I’ve played both and found that if you’re stricking the ball purely and consistently the only real difference is the ball flight. TMBs fly a little higher with a little less spin. I have a lower-penetrating ball flight and tend to struggle more with overspin than underspin. I don’t know that they’re for everyone but they are definitely not inconsistent by any stretch.
  10. I game a PP Newport 2 in pretty much mint condition and a studio stainless as well. Both are 35/330 and play with the stock studio design grip. They're unbelievable with feel, but durability wise the studio stainless is much butter (oil cloths go a long way even with durable pro platinum). If you can snag a new looking PP Newport 2 with a somewhat lighter grip that doesn't throw off swing weight, it might be as close to a tour Carbon Newport 2 as you can get without paying $1,500+... as long as you're okay with the weight!
  11. Try the nippon 120 TX stiff if youre trying to exhaust all methods of lowering ball flight simply by changing equipment. Theyre around 125 grams and launch super low for me. Played them in MP54's for a while and loved the results as I am a high ball hitter too. But to solve this youre better off working on making a swing change as opposed to tweaking equipment. Equipment might lower stock shots slightly but playing into the wind your weaknesses can still be exposed. Maybe approaching a teaching pro for advice on lowering ball flight or learning a knock down shot would prove to be a better inve
  12. I play a 50.8F, 54.14F, and 58.11 + play to a 3.8 index with a strong short game. The high bounce wedge helps a lot of shots in the rough and it soggy/wet conditions. Also still fine when you open the face. Bounce is definitely your friend if you are looking for versatility.
  13. All I am going to say is JEALOUS! That 009M is a dream putter for me! But let me get to judging a little in this bag. So I notice that you play Xstiff shafts in your shorter clubs but not necessarily in the longer ones, whicht means you are a guy with a pretty smooth tempo and high ball flight, but need your irons to fly a little bit lower in those high launch T-MB and Muira heads. With that being said, I would say you're somewhere in the 3-8 handicap range... You also like the flashy look of expensive shafts, but you are practical enough to get the ones that suit your game best; which to m
  14. This thread looks like a lot of fun, so why dont I throw my bag in the mix! Bag: 2012 Adidas Lightweight 6 way stand bag Driver: 910D3 w/ real Diamana Kai'li 70x 3 Wood: 915f w/ Diamana S+ 80x Irons: Mizuno MP54 w/ PX 6.5 Wedges: Vokey SM5 w/ DG S400 (50F, 54F, 58K) Putter: Scotty Cameron Studio Stainless Newport 2 35/330 Ball: Srixon Zstar XV *5 Wood: 913f w/ Diamana D+ 80x rotates with 3 iron in winter months or very long courses*
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