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  1. Is this still for sale? Please message me if so.
  2. Something similar happened to my G400 LST. It was more than a year old. Ping wouldn't do anything, citing "abuse". That shot went about 240 dead straight that broke it, real abuse. This was sending it back through my country club.
  3. Yes, I've had some 46+ drivers that were up in the low E's. It's sort of like swinging the hammer to ring the bell. It's so much easier to swing something lighter and generate clubhead speed. Just get it heavy enough to still feel it. On the irons, I'm not trying to swing fast/hard, and you're often trying to really feel the club and manage speed and tempo, so the heavy weight works great there.
  4. This is possibly the stupidest comment in the history of the internet. Hey, tall guy, remove some vertebrae. That's my idea. Stretch your arm bones a few inches. That's my other idea. If that doesn't work, get on your knees when you swing. Fit your body to one-size-fits-all standard club length is what I demand! Listen to me.
  5. I have found my clubhead speed with my Ping drivers and woods to be understated. Conversely, I've found long iron speed to be overstated. I think it has to do with the different materials compositions and shapes of the heads. I can swing with the woods and struggle to display more than 102 clubhead speed, but then show ball speed in the 150's. Maybe the driver will show 105, with ballspeed around 160. But then switch to my 2 iron and clubhead speed is up in the 104-108 range, but ball speed always in the 140's. FWIW, I think my real driver swing speed is 110-113, fairways 105-108, and 2 ir
  6. I have a Modus3 105X in my U85 2-iron and love it. Years ago, I also had the first Ping Crossover with a steel fiber i110cw in it and that shaft was very solid. I also have a U65 3 iron with a Kuro Kage 100TX Hybrid shaft and while I might get a bit more club speed with it on a few swings where I really crack the whip right, both of the others above are more consistent directionally.
  7. Longer clubs, heavier shafts and stand closer to the ball. That's from a fellow tall golfer going through the same odyssey of ball striking. Stick with the heavy shaft. You're plenty strong enough to swing it all day long, and if you're not now, you will be in six months. It'll mitigate the lefts. A club like Ping G series will be the most forgiving thing you can play, saving you strokes, especially with those toe hits. I still regularly have misses that are only halfway on the grooves out on the toe and barely lose a club length and are only 10 yards right. The forgiveness is worth the o
  8. Get Ping G425's. Loft them strong (power spec lofts). Ping can make them over length and keep swing weight manageable too. You'll have to deal with some pretty visible offset in the long irons. I'm 6'5", 49, started "back" like you about 7-8 years ago, and have gone from a low 20 to a high single digit. I started with Ping, i20's, then dumped them for more forgiving G30's and now have G410's.
  9. I could see doing that with my 60. I'd need to ignore the 14 club rule though. One wide sole with lots of bounce. One thin sole with lots of grind.
  10. I'd say one degree based upon those labels. But as a tall guy who someone like Ping would try to fit into something absurd like +3 or +4º lie angle, I'm a firm believer that no one should ever be fit more than 1-2º from standard. Change length, not lie in that case. That's hard because of swing weight. Which is odd because now Ping is most capable of adjusting swing weights of any manufucturer. But at the end of the day the longer club with a heavier swing weight is being swung by a bigger taller stronger golfer most of the time so it's a non issue, and the shorter club with a
  11. First off, I have mine turned down to 16.5 loft (G400 with Fujikura Tour Pro Spec 2.0 93X Shaft) I use mine to putt through 5-10 yards of fringe/fairway more than anything else. I originally got it to take the place of my hybrid that I am prone to hooking badly. I sometimes like to think of it is a "250 off the tee" club (like when going 260 puts in you in a hazard/sand trap). But I rarely hit it off the tee since more often than not it is windy, and I also hit a 2 iron off the tee all of the time with more confidence. Into the wind, the 2 iron is every bi
  12. Does anyone have MOI numbers for these two? It seems no one talks about that except in the non-LST range.
  13. I may be a 9, but my wedge game is way better than that so long as the lie isn't awful or my back/body isn't worn out. At 6'5" and 49 years old, I play 37.25" lob, 37.625" sand-wedge. If my back is tense/tired, I feel like 38" would be the better choice, as thin blades can creep in. Next go round of wedges I might just go 38" for the shortest of everything. I can always choke up a half inch or inch if comfortable to do so. I have the mindset that my clubs should help me. They should help me when my back is tense or tired. They should help me when the ball is below my feet. A
  14. Our club has these better billy bunkers with firm sand that don't wash out when it rains as easily. Playing anything other than a lob wedge is basically impossible out of them. I learned to play with a traditional sand wedge with bounce and an open face, and it worked back then. But now, I'm nearly always hitting a square faced 60, maybe a tad open if the sand isn't too firm. There's just no other way. Average bunker shot is probably about 10 yards to the hole too (got tight pins???), so that low out I'm so often given is really no good anyhow since you usually need 15-20 yards for that sh
  15. E0 at +1.5" is the same as D3 at standard length. It should be no problem. I'm 6'5", 240+ and play clubs about as long, but even longer in the short end of the bag (⅜" gaps, going out to +2.25" in the sand wedge/lob wedge). I have a progressive swing weight to approximate MOI matching and it works good. Wedges range from E0, pitching, E1 gap, E4 sand, E3 lob. Then irons drop from D8 (9 iron) to D6 (5 iron, "only" +1.75"), and a lighter shafted driving iron at D5. Woods range around D4-D5 at standard length (no need to sacrifice accuracy for length since those clubs are already long). I wou
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