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  1. Thank you all for the tips. Is one enamal paint better than the other?
  2. I did use acetone which works but I think there are other products that you can leave on for awhile to dissolve the paint. I used Testors Enamel which seemed to work well.
  3. I know this has been mentioned on another discussion but I cannot find it. I need to know the product used to remove the old paint on the club head numbers. I would think the Navel Jelly would do the trick but I know that wasn't one of the products mentioned. Any advise would be appreciated.
  4. I just purchased a set of Cobra King Forged Tec One irons today 4-Gap. My other set are Titleist C-16's. The one length seems to work for me but the PW and Gap wedge does take some getting used to. I need to dial in the distances a little more. I do like the confidence I get when swinging the 4 and 5 iron. My first real test came on the second hole which is a par 3. It was playing 185 slight helping wind. I hit a 4 iron about ten yards too long. I do notice a lower ball flight as compared to my C16's which I tend to ballon the ball a little. I got the Project X Catalyst 5.5 reg flex in my Cobr
  5. Although your problem was solved, I can offer general advise. I've been to many club fittings and Demo days. I'm actually friends with a Titleist rep. The fitting reps make salary. I don't think they make the money on sales because it goes through the club sponsoring the fitting. If you were fitted at a club you are a member of, I would be giving them the business. At the club where I belong, they have discount member pricing. Along with that, they offer an additional 5% discount on prices if the clubs are purchased at a demo day event. It never hurts to give your business to the club where yo
  6. My Callaway range finder finally died. Any suggestions of which one to buy? Slope would be nice but I dependability and magnification are most important. Thank you!
  7. I went to a Cobra Golf Demo/fitting day Friday to satisfy my curiosity about the one length irons. They had a set made up with their King forged Tec One head. They had a KBS lite steel shaft, regular flex. As most of you know, the length is based on a seven iron. Obviously you will notice the biggest difference in the the PW and longer irons. There is a strange sort of confidence in both the short irons and longer irons in the following sense; although the shaft length of the pitching wedge seems long, you have the confidence that you can easily hit the yardage that you need without swinging
  8. Just went on the PXG website. The clubs you are looking at are on sale for $99/ club! The set you are looking at would be $800 new!
  9. I am contimplating building a set of same length irons. Because this is a very experimental build, I have a set of Aldila Rouge 65 gram graphite shafts , regular flex that were pulled out of a set of Tour edge irons. If anyone has the trim length specs for these shafts, I would appreciate it. I am also open to the thoughts of club builders on this forum on doing this project concerning the performance of a set of same length shaft irons. I am planning on using the 7 iron length. I will be using the shafts in a set of Callaway Apex irons (original model). Any comments or input is appreciated.
  10. I'm only an amateur at club repair but except for cosmetic looks, this type of damage should not (never say never) hurt the performance of the shaft and should not worsen over time. I remember re-gripping a Callaway Great big Bertha driver. The shaft was ultra light weight and when tightening the rubber shaft grip clamp in the vise, (I had the grip too close to the butt end where the shaft is very thin) I heard a slight cracking, splintering sound only to notice I superficially fractured the shaft in a lengthwise direction. It did not have any effect on the shaft for years afterword. Any cut i
  11. It's like the sign my shop teacher posted in shop class: "If you don't have the time to do it right, when are you going to find the time to do it over"
  12. You are right! I just looked. My stupidity!!!
  13. For some stupid reason and partially because GolfWorks did not include trim instructions for KBS shafts, I butt trimmed only the shaft to length not realizing I needed to tip trim initially. It only occurred to me that something was wrong when I put my sliced grip on to adjust the swing weight that I saw the grip extend down to the shaft label. After I realized I messed up, I epoxied the cut Butt end back using a cut down shaft extender. Being at the butt end, the minimal weight added was minimal. I then correctly tip trimmed to specs. I left it 1/4" longer at the suggestion of a member beca
  14. I ordered and received a KBS TFI 70 graphite shaft from GolfWorks. I wanted to try one shaft before buying a set. I am putting it in a Titleist C16 7 iron. I ordered a parallel shaft and will have to taper it to fit the C16 tapered hosel. The shaft did not come with trimming instructions so I am reaching out to a club maker member on this forum for advise. I know I have to trim the tip a certain amount of inches to obtain a regular flex and then do a butt trim to final length. Does anyone know the amount of tip trimming I must do? Again, I want to have a REGULAR shaft flex as the end result.
  15. I am doing some graphite shaft replacements on a set of Titleist irons. I am going to use rubber tungsten tip weights to dial in the proper swing weight. The weights have a stem that is inserted into thevtip of the shaft and the flange or tip extends around 1/4" past the butt end of the shaft. According to questions that were asked and answerd on Golfworks, it was recommended to slightly tip trim the shaft to compensate for the added length the weight is adding. Would this advise be correct? If so, I might need to slightly sand the tip of the weight to match the tapper of the hosel. Anot
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