Jump to content

cglynn

Members
  • Posts

    48
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

cglynn's Achievements

13

Reputation

  1. I changed drivers this season, going from an older generation Maltby KE4 with a 55g shaft to a TM R9 with a 65g shaft, and couldn't be happier. I am hitting the ball further with more control using theR9 w/ 65g shaft. That said, the flex profiles are most likely different. The 55g shaft was a UST Mamiya UL Gold 55 S flex, and the 65 is the Fujikura Motore, also S flex. The R9 with the Fujikura just feels better to me, and the performance is all there, so no complaints.
  2. So with the blue tape, use some solvent to lubricate then slide the grip over the blue tape? Or does the blue tape require an air compressor/air gun? Thanks CG
  3. Thanks for the advice all. I will try a couple of wraps of tape and then regrip. If I want to forego the adhesive grip tape, and just use blue tape as was suggested how would I go about that? Thanks CG
  4. Hi all. I built some new irons back in January, and the grips on them quickly went downhill. I bought one of those V groove grip remover tools so I could swap the still very nice grips from my old irons onto my new irons. I had no problems removing the grips, and just to be on the safe side, replaced the grip tape on the new irons. Did a standard regrip using the Golfworks solvent. After a few days of sitting, I am noticing some movement of the grip rubber. On the worst clubs, I am able to twist the grip in my hand. It seems like the tape and grip never really bonded. I am really at a loss for why this is the case as I have done plenty of grip work and have never had this issue. The only thing I can think of is that I have always worked with new grips, so they are plug and play. Do reused grips need any special treatment before installation on different clubs? Thanks much CG
  5. I think it depends on your game right now. You say you are playing to 9.8. Tell us about your game. Are you short or inaccurate off the tee? Do you miss a lot of greens on your approach shots? What is your average proximity to the hole after a pitch or chip? Not knowing any of that, and admittedly not going to be online this weekend to see responses, I would offer this: If you are playing to a 9.8, your gear is probably not the issue, or at least I doubt its holding you back too much. I don't see a gear change dropping 5 strokes off your game just like that. I would work on your short game (maybe change out your wedges if the grooves are really worn) as playing to a 9.8, no doubt you are missing greens in reg. Dial in your wedges so that from 100yds in, you can consistently get the ball within 10 feet (6 is better, and 3 is best, but that's tour pro stuff right there) of the hole. From there, learn to NEVER 3 putt.
  6. If you are trimming the shaft for length, you are trimming from the butt end. I don't think butt trimming a shaft has much, if any effect on flex. If you are trimming from the tip, that's a different story. The only issues you may run into are swingweight, though butt trimming will decrease SW points, which might not be bad for a 12 yr old, and depending on the taper and diameter of the shortened shaft, maybe how the grip fits. A little build up tape would solve any issue there.
  7. With all this discussion of swing weight, and whether it matters or not, shouldn't the real conversation be about MOI, because that's the actual scientific principle SW is trying to describe? And, I am not trying to excuse shoddy work (which, being as all the clubs listed by the OP are within 1 point of one another, and all within 1 point of the desired D1 SW....the work seems pretty reasonable to me) but isn't the reality of the situation if the clubs play well, they play well. And if they play well, they should be used?
  8. For what its worth, I trimmed my Score LT's halfway between R and S, and they feel great. Granted those are steel and not graphite, but I fail to see why doing the same wouldn't work for graphite as well. I have also heard of others doing the same with the universal flex parallel tip shafts and they have reported good results. You could always build a test club for your guy to try, and take it from there.
  9. I think the big difference between 90's and now is that modern golfers are straight up athletes. No to say 90's pros were out of shape, but the game was not approached as a true athletic sport. That changed around 2000 when those new to pro golf saw the success of someone who did treat the game like an athletic sport. The now common entourage of pro players: swing coach, life coach, manager, agent, nutritionist, gear rep, etc, was pretty much the norm for all serious athletes in other professional sports. Once golfers figured out that employing those people would help them play better golf, it was only natural that they would do so. So in the modern pro game, you have amazing athletes with incredible levels of talent, who have access to resources players in the 90's could only dream about. The field is deep, and I personally think the level of competition far too equal for one person to run away with the tour like we saw in the early 2000's. Now we are just treated to really good golf every weekend. Unfortunately, all that said, I find that the really good golf is usually pretty boring. Dudes bomb a drive 320+, hit a wedge to under 10 feet, rinse and repeat. They are almost all so good that the hero shots, the ones that make the game really exciting (Tiger on 16 at Augusta in '05, Bubba also at Augusta in the playoff, etc) don't happen often anymore. As an aside, I also wonder if there are players today, as good as they are who have the skill to pull off shots like that, of if they have all gotten so good at "point and shoot" golf, that certain skills and creativity have fallen off.
  10. Thanks for the tips and links. I will check out Brad Clayton and see if there is anything we can gain from him. Also, and for what its worth, usually when mom and I play golf together, we are out on the course, enjoying a round. I try not to give her on the course tips, because that can turn into a tish show in a hurry. As such, I haven't really watched her actually play a lot. We got to practicing the other day and I noticed that she was set up with the ball really far forward in her stance, and really close to the ball. I offered her an alternative setup and low and behold, she isn't topping the ball anymore, nor flat out missing the ball and whiffing. Slow motion video showed her swing is pretty much on plane and that she is closing the club at impact. So she's doing the things that need to be done. We just really need to work on her setup and alignment, and I am willing to bet she plays her best golf since she started playing in '96.
  11. Thanks for the replies all. I scored an R9 on the 'bay for basically the price of the shaft. Despite it being old, I am going to test at the range against my current driver and see how it performs. If better, I am gaming it. If not, I am going to try the Fujikura shaft on a different head. Thanks CG
  12. Hi all. Short story long: I currently play a Maltby KE4 driver with UST Mamiya UL Gold 55 shaft, S Flex. I haven't really been super happy with it since I built it 7-8 years ago, but its what I had. I tried Howard's self fitting and got to where I am hitting the club solidly, and repeatedly in the center, but still not getting the distance I want. My driver is carrying about the same as my 4 wood, which is an old TM R9 with the Fujikura Motore 70, S flex, that I absolutely love. Can any of you recommend a modern shaft that will play similar to the Motore that might be appropriate for a new driver build, which would be the latest gen KE4 from Maltby, unless there is another component head you think I should look at? Or other option, R9 drivers with the Motore shaft show up on the 'bay fairly often. Would it be better to go with one of those, despite that fact that they are pushing 12 years old? Any and all advice is much appreciated. CG
  13. Quick update. I used the techniques in shown in the DIY tuneup and started to pay attention to impact point on the club face. Found I was toeing a lot of shots, and my swing just didn't feel great. I filmed my swing, and path etc looked okay. I did some looking online and read from many sources that toe hits can be caused by weight placement (amongst other things...). Back to my swing video, and sure enough before a take the club back, I was shifting my weight so that it was all on my heels, not the balls of my feet. Back to the hitting net, foot spray on the irons, weight closer to my toes, and wouldn't know, impact is right where it should be. Also, with weight on the balls of the feet, I found it easier to turn my hips through the entire swing, and pretty much everything feels better. I also found that maybe my driver is too long. Going to try gripping down half inch and see how it goes. To be honest, it never ceases to amazing me at just how involved a golf swing really is, and if any of the elements are out of whack, its going to be a bad time. Thanks for all the help and advice. You guys saved me from going down a shaft rabbit hole and your advice led me to a swing diagnosis. I am playing for the first time this season tomorrow (when its supposed to be just over freezing....) so we'll see how it goes. CG
  14. Thanks again Stuart. Lots to digest there. I have been reading Howard's posts for a while now, and he appears to really know his stuff. Between you, Howard, and T. Wishon. there is a huge wealth of fitting info in this forum. CG
  15. Thank you again, Stuart. That Wishon article is great (as is pretty much everything else he has written...I would be smart to read his books...) So it looks like there is no substitute for time and hard work when it comes to shaft selection. Of course after I posted all this I went to the range and hit balls. Once I got warmed up and starting hitting the ball really well, I noticed something. My best shots were made with a different tempo than my worst shots. When I rushed the tempo and transitioned immediately into the downswing it was a pooch screw. All sorts of bad things happened...casting, hitting it fat, hitting it thin, hitting it on the toe, etc. But when I slowed the transition so it felt like there was a noticeable pause at the top, I was striking the ball very well. Contact was right in the middle of the club face, shots went further, and felt better. Good swings are a great place to start. I am going to start consciously trying to groove that pause (I can't tell you if I actually pause at the top, or if its just a feel) and hopefully not turn into Charles Barkley. Once I get that dialed in, then I will revisit the shaft idea. It may turn out that I don't require one.
×
×
  • Create New...