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driveandputtmachine

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About driveandputtmachine

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  1. Poor Mans MOI, as I like to call it, is easily obtainable with a kitchen scale and a ruler. I use those plus a SW scale and do a poor man MOI match. I did not want to by an auditor or one of the super expensive MOI matching tools. Luckily @Howard_Jones has posted numerous times on how to achieve close to a MOI match using just the scale, ruler, and SW scale. I used his ideas as a starting point. I weighed all of my heads, measured final playing length and got started based off of my 7 iron (which is the club I had centered contact face orientation I liked the most often). From there with my lengths I went up and down in minute SW increments throughout the set based on my head weights. Once I had them "matched" I went to the range with a dry erase marker(to get my lie angles correct) adjusted them, then remeasured the SW after adjusting. Did a few tweaks, then went to the range with a roll of lead tape and foot powder spray. My set no longer exactly matches the MOI match numbers, but where they are currently I hit the center of the face more often with the desired path and face orientation. This is the best I have ever hit my irons in my life. My GIR have gone way up, my average distance to the hole on all approaches has dropped by 30% overall and on average distance to hole on approaches where I hit the GIR is has gone down by 40%. This is why I invested in Arccos to see exactly how much better any part of my game was, and it really helps.
  2. A. Cleveland Zipcore, 46, 50, 54, 60 B. KInda, I play Srixon irons C. 46, 50, 54, 60 D. Zipcore mid in all. I tried the full and low in the 54 and 60, 46 and 50 only come in mid. E. Same as my irons, Recoil 110 F5
  3. MOI matching for dummies is what I called it. I had an idea of where I wanted to start based off of my last set, so it was easier for me. Starting from scratch as is said above by @mogc60. Find your favorite iron and build from that. Also remember that you should leave room for tweaking. Just because your 7 and 8 iron are theoretically Poor Man MOI matched doesn't mean they are. This is why some of my clubs are a bit off of the supposed MOI using the table and exactly what it says it should be. Feel and ability to find the sweet spot as much as possible overrides any exact numbers matching.
  4. 1. Atlanta, GA2. 33. Srixon ZX74. Right5. To see if they are as good as I have heard. I think they may be a bit longer than my current irons.6. Absolutely
  5. Whether or not you agree with capitalism, that is our country. Forget inflation and everything else, yes those cause price increases but that is not the final straw. Something is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Bottom line. If a manufacturer wants to make 20, 40, 70, 80% margin, someone has to be willing to buy it for that price, if not they lower profits or if their business model will not support it they go out of business. See Nike, yes they made money, but they were used to a model where they paid $0.50 for something and selling it for $30.00 and a lot of it, to a product they paid $100 for that sold for $250(These numbers aren't actual numbers, but gives the ballpark idea). Their business model didn't like the 150% profit on so few items, and they couldn't adapt their company values from so long of a huge profit margin. Vis a vis they quit equipment. Don't like it? Don't buy it. The fact of the matter is once the other manufacturers see it they will end up doing it at some point, because no one likes to make less money. I do not know actual numbers but if you averaged 40% markup across your product line and now it is 30%(These are not actual numbers) then somewhere someone doesn't like this lower profit and will try and figure out how to fix it. Price increases to the consumer are normally the last line, going after manufacturers and shipping to lower cost is always first. Whether it is your shareholders, BOD, owners, it doesn't matter they want to make money and making less is not acceptable. They will ride the fine line of how much can I increase, and still get what I want(money) while not pissing off too many buyers so that when things stabilize they won't hold my price increases against me? It is amazing how many people do not understand economics or capitalism
  6. He can pull weight off of it no problem he said, he could pull it from the brass in multiple places. He said he could also tap the aluminum and you can use available weights in it. I do not like heavy putters for normal lengths, but I do for split handed.
  7. Just heard back, as it sits it is 374 grams. I love the idea of the brass face/sole plate. I am used to a really deep milling and play a slightly harder ball, so I prefer softer feeling faces. I would love the ability to put a short slant neck hosel in and epoxied, or be able to pull and go double bend. I prefer the hosel or shaft back like that, but go back and forth on which I prefer.
  8. Everyone is different. I play 7 iron at a length(little longer than most "standards") I go down in 1/4" increments to the PW and then all wedges are the same length. I go up from the 7 iron in 3/8" increments. Howard had a spreadsheet I used to build. I used .5 SWP for my 3/8" clubs and .33 SWP for my 1/4" clubs. Since my scale is not digital, and therefore you don't have everything marked perfectly, I also used a kitchen scale for my heads, dry fit and tested before gluing to eyeball the SW specs as close as possible. I do not believe in including grips in my MOI matching, but I am not a guru. I built everything up without grips and matched to my desired head weights and SW gaps to try and achieve MOI match without my grips, then just used all of the same grips on my clubs(which should be fine) and I used the same grips on everything.
  9. I played Project X and project flighted for years. When I went to graphite(steep and wrist issues) I tried quite a few, and even tried the KBS Tour V with foam heads and shaft inserts. Graphite is the way to go. I tell you this because. I loved the Tour V, I loved the project X. I need the graphite though. I tried every graphite shaft on the market, shoot I even try new releases even though I love what I have. It can always be better, right? I thought the Recoil Protos played more like the True Temper X100, and the regular Recoil played more like the Project X. The TourV is a more valid comparison in my mind, however, I may be completely wrong. My choices are the Project X Catalyst and Recoil (standard) to come the closest to matching the Project X, however I have not played the LV version so they may be a lot different. I have tried Accra, MMT, KBS, NV, NVS, SF, and SF CW, and a few others I cannot remember right now. The only ones I ever pursued were the Catalyst and standard Recoil. I have two sets of standard Recoils and a set of Catalyst 100's.
  10. I am trying to find out. I believe the rest is aluminum, but there might be some heft in this thing.
  11. I have been toying around with mallets for some time. I reached out to LaMont when I first saw this mallet prototype. This one is done with a brass plate and face and I am in love.
  12. It was strictly on the course. Everything off the mat indoors was very close according to the trackman.
  13. When you change iron heads or shafts you cannot compare anywhere but off of grass. I went in to a check up fitting a few years back. I knew my current irons at the time Bridgestone J40 CB produced the perfect spin and descent angle on the course. I wanted to go to graphite(wrist injury) and some with a little more forgiveness in the long irons. I hit them off of this places mats to get an idea of what it said for my starting place. Then tried new heads and shafts where I had similar results and better dispersion off of the mats. I got onto the same course I had been playing the J40's and the new irons and shafts were WAY too spinny. I had trouble with playing in even a remote breeze and even though my numbers on the LM showed one thing my results on the course were something else. This was even though the new irons and shafts showed almost the same distance and spin on the LM. Ultimately I figured out for me I have to test irons and shafts off of grass, luckily I have the Reynold Kingdom somewhat close to get ideas. Even though I do not play TM clubs currently, using their shafts and heads has helped in testing, but a full fledged spot off of grass with all manufacturers would be better. We do have a golfTec here at one of the ranges/par 3 courses here and I will use them next time.
  14. I have only ever used the Tour Set Plus Epoxy from golfworks. Playing strength in 60-90 minutes at 77* and full cure in 24 hour at 77*. I have had some kind of failure with just about every other "golf" epoxy out there, but never from the Tour Set Plus. I have used a couple of 3m branded epoxies with no issue as well, but cannot remember the specifics, DP something, someone on this forum recommended it, but it was much more expensive than the Golf Works Tour Set I use.
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