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driveandputtmachine

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Everything posted by driveandputtmachine

  1. Weight is always the biggest issue. As her golf muscles develop it will be a lesser problem, but giving her clubs too heavy too early will hurt her swing. My daughters are 15 and 17 now and I went through this issue with both of them. One switched before 6th grade and one not until the summer after 8th. Every child is different so there really isn't one answer, and golf muscles aren't developed in many ways other than specific training and actually swinging a golf club. If you can find a store that has some women's clubs she might be able to hit in the simulator you can see from how she handles the club there if she is ready and with her feedback of the weight.
  2. Short length driver here too. I know per Arccos now and good note keeping before that if I get off of the tee well I score well at my current home course. It is EXTREMELY TREE LINED, and very tight. I used to play a Ping driver with a non CB shaft and had some lead tape on it besides, but with the 400 Max I still played it at 45". Fast forward and I got encouraging center strikes with a shorter shaft in testing. Once I had a idea of the weight and profile that fit me, I started my experimenting. IN the end I am playing a Epic Max LS, with an extra 12 gram weight in the head. I tend to launch my driver high, so I still needed a 9* head, but a Ventus red tipped all the way to the top of the adapter and playing 44.5" has been a god send. The big left and big right miss that I only had with the driver and 3 wood is gone from the driver now. Working on the 3 wood next, I have the shaft, but still am deciding how much more to tip(already 1" so it may stay as is) and have begun experimenting with lead tape before trying to order guessing weights. Two rows of lead tape on the toe side of the plate and one on the heel so far.
  3. So path gives you starting point, but the overdrawing is still a face related issue. Going too far left means your face is more closed to your path than you want it. It is still a face issue. It would be a path issue if your starting point was not where you wanted it. Meaning you wanted to start 10 yards right of your target but instead you only started 2 yards left of your target, that is a path issue.
  4. Which recoils have you played? Their lightweight ESX, smacwrap, and 600 series are MUCH lighter in weight than say the 95 Recoil or 95 Recoil proto's. I know little to nothing about the EI profile of those lightweight Recoil shafts or the 120 for that matter. I never cared for the 120 or 125 Nippons. I play the Recoil 110's but would say their EI profile is closest to a KBS Tour V, or at least after Rifle shafts I played that KBS until I switched(due to wrist issues) and the switch from KBS Tour V to Recoil 110's was seamless for me. Flex I compared was F5 in the Recoil to X in the KBS Tour V.
  5. Depends on the actual shaft. As you stated the more weight on the butt end of the shaft means the club has to be longer or the head heavier to increase SW vs a "normal" shaft. For Ping drivers and fairways they all tend to be heavier as they use counterbalanced shafts. For Ping irons they show a SW of D-0, however if you read the fine print, it says Standard swingweights for graphite-shafted clubs are 1 to 2 points lighter than shown, depending on shaft flex. The only CB shaft ping currently offers is the Alta graphite. The Ping AWT is counterbalanced, they are ascending weighted shafts. Meaning the shafts get lighter in the longer shafts. The Alta distanza may be CB or just really lightweight, I know nothing about it, but it is graphite. Ping can adjust irons with weights in the heads, or at least they have been able to with previous irons, but I have only owned the i210's in the last 8 years, so my knowledge is somewhat limited. I personally believe the total weight and balance point(MOI) is a bigger deal in fitting golfers than swingweight
  6. Poor Mans MOI, as I like to call it, is easily obtainable with a kitchen scale and a ruler. I use those plus a SW scale and do a poor man MOI match. I did not want to by an auditor or one of the super expensive MOI matching tools. Luckily @Howard_Jones has posted numerous times on how to achieve close to a MOI match using just the scale, ruler, and SW scale. I used his ideas as a starting point. I weighed all of my heads, measured final playing length and got started based off of my 7 iron (which is the club I had centered contact face orientation I liked the most often). From there with my lengths I went up and down in minute SW increments throughout the set based on my head weights. Once I had them "matched" I went to the range with a dry erase marker(to get my lie angles correct) adjusted them, then remeasured the SW after adjusting. Did a few tweaks, then went to the range with a roll of lead tape and foot powder spray. My set no longer exactly matches the MOI match numbers, but where they are currently I hit the center of the face more often with the desired path and face orientation. This is the best I have ever hit my irons in my life. My GIR have gone way up, my average distance to the hole on all approaches has dropped by 30% overall and on average distance to hole on approaches where I hit the GIR is has gone down by 40%. This is why I invested in Arccos to see exactly how much better any part of my game was, and it really helps.
  7. A. Cleveland Zipcore, 46, 50, 54, 60 B. KInda, I play Srixon irons C. 46, 50, 54, 60 D. Zipcore mid in all. I tried the full and low in the 54 and 60, 46 and 50 only come in mid. E. Same as my irons, Recoil 110 F5
  8. MOI matching for dummies is what I called it. I had an idea of where I wanted to start based off of my last set, so it was easier for me. Starting from scratch as is said above by @mogc60. Find your favorite iron and build from that. Also remember that you should leave room for tweaking. Just because your 7 and 8 iron are theoretically Poor Man MOI matched doesn't mean they are. This is why some of my clubs are a bit off of the supposed MOI using the table and exactly what it says it should be. Feel and ability to find the sweet spot as much as possible overrides any exact numbers matching.
  9. 1. Atlanta, GA2. 33. Srixon ZX74. Right5. To see if they are as good as I have heard. I think they may be a bit longer than my current irons.6. Absolutely
  10. Whether or not you agree with capitalism, that is our country. Forget inflation and everything else, yes those cause price increases but that is not the final straw. Something is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Bottom line. If a manufacturer wants to make 20, 40, 70, 80% margin, someone has to be willing to buy it for that price, if not they lower profits or if their business model will not support it they go out of business. See Nike, yes they made money, but they were used to a model where they paid $0.50 for something and selling it for $30.00 and a lot of it, to a product they paid $100 for that sold for $250(These numbers aren't actual numbers, but gives the ballpark idea). Their business model didn't like the 150% profit on so few items, and they couldn't adapt their company values from so long of a huge profit margin. Vis a vis they quit equipment. Don't like it? Don't buy it. The fact of the matter is once the other manufacturers see it they will end up doing it at some point, because no one likes to make less money. I do not know actual numbers but if you averaged 40% markup across your product line and now it is 30%(These are not actual numbers) then somewhere someone doesn't like this lower profit and will try and figure out how to fix it. Price increases to the consumer are normally the last line, going after manufacturers and shipping to lower cost is always first. Whether it is your shareholders, BOD, owners, it doesn't matter they want to make money and making less is not acceptable. They will ride the fine line of how much can I increase, and still get what I want(money) while not pissing off too many buyers so that when things stabilize they won't hold my price increases against me? It is amazing how many people do not understand economics or capitalism
  11. He can pull weight off of it no problem he said, he could pull it from the brass in multiple places. He said he could also tap the aluminum and you can use available weights in it. I do not like heavy putters for normal lengths, but I do for split handed.
  12. Just heard back, as it sits it is 374 grams. I love the idea of the brass face/sole plate. I am used to a really deep milling and play a slightly harder ball, so I prefer softer feeling faces. I would love the ability to put a short slant neck hosel in and epoxied, or be able to pull and go double bend. I prefer the hosel or shaft back like that, but go back and forth on which I prefer.
  13. Everyone is different. I play 7 iron at a length(little longer than most "standards") I go down in 1/4" increments to the PW and then all wedges are the same length. I go up from the 7 iron in 3/8" increments. Howard had a spreadsheet I used to build. I used .5 SWP for my 3/8" clubs and .33 SWP for my 1/4" clubs. Since my scale is not digital, and therefore you don't have everything marked perfectly, I also used a kitchen scale for my heads, dry fit and tested before gluing to eyeball the SW specs as close as possible. I do not believe in including grips in my MOI matching, but I am not a guru. I built everything up without grips and matched to my desired head weights and SW gaps to try and achieve MOI match without my grips, then just used all of the same grips on my clubs(which should be fine) and I used the same grips on everything.
  14. I played Project X and project flighted for years. When I went to graphite(steep and wrist issues) I tried quite a few, and even tried the KBS Tour V with foam heads and shaft inserts. Graphite is the way to go. I tell you this because. I loved the Tour V, I loved the project X. I need the graphite though. I tried every graphite shaft on the market, shoot I even try new releases even though I love what I have. It can always be better, right? I thought the Recoil Protos played more like the True Temper X100, and the regular Recoil played more like the Project X. The TourV is a more valid comparison in my mind, however, I may be completely wrong. My choices are the Project X Catalyst and Recoil (standard) to come the closest to matching the Project X, however I have not played the LV version so they may be a lot different. I have tried Accra, MMT, KBS, NV, NVS, SF, and SF CW, and a few others I cannot remember right now. The only ones I ever pursued were the Catalyst and standard Recoil. I have two sets of standard Recoils and a set of Catalyst 100's.
  15. I am trying to find out. I believe the rest is aluminum, but there might be some heft in this thing.
  16. I have been toying around with mallets for some time. I reached out to LaMont when I first saw this mallet prototype. This one is done with a brass plate and face and I am in love.
  17. It was strictly on the course. Everything off the mat indoors was very close according to the trackman.
  18. When you change iron heads or shafts you cannot compare anywhere but off of grass. I went in to a check up fitting a few years back. I knew my current irons at the time Bridgestone J40 CB produced the perfect spin and descent angle on the course. I wanted to go to graphite(wrist injury) and some with a little more forgiveness in the long irons. I hit them off of this places mats to get an idea of what it said for my starting place. Then tried new heads and shafts where I had similar results and better dispersion off of the mats. I got onto the same course I had been playing the J40's and the new irons and shafts were WAY too spinny. I had trouble with playing in even a remote breeze and even though my numbers on the LM showed one thing my results on the course were something else. This was even though the new irons and shafts showed almost the same distance and spin on the LM. Ultimately I figured out for me I have to test irons and shafts off of grass, luckily I have the Reynold Kingdom somewhat close to get ideas. Even though I do not play TM clubs currently, using their shafts and heads has helped in testing, but a full fledged spot off of grass with all manufacturers would be better. We do have a golfTec here at one of the ranges/par 3 courses here and I will use them next time.
  19. I have only ever used the Tour Set Plus Epoxy from golfworks. Playing strength in 60-90 minutes at 77* and full cure in 24 hour at 77*. I have had some kind of failure with just about every other "golf" epoxy out there, but never from the Tour Set Plus. I have used a couple of 3m branded epoxies with no issue as well, but cannot remember the specifics, DP something, someone on this forum recommended it, but it was much more expensive than the Golf Works Tour Set I use.
  20. Measure your BBGM and add that to the raw shaft length and that will get you a playing length based on length down the shaft to the ground. I have ZX7's and based on throwing a tape measure on it really quick it appears there is a 1.25" BBGM, it could be 1.5". I play my PW at 37"(Grip cap), however I play Recoil 110's and the wedge shaft is 37" and I do not remember exactly how much I cut to get it to that length.
  21. Titleist is the devil. Do not let go of your feelings, you know the Titleist is wrong, join the light side. Order the King Tec, it will serve you well. I despise all things Titleist and I have one of their 7 woods(used of course, can't send them my money to help propagate their lies) and I will say the TS and TSi3 hybrids I tried were very good. Only the Ping and Cobra were better in all the ones I tried. I think you may be another that disdains all things Titleist and I would hate to see you go back on that for the sake of a hybrid that isn't as good as at least two others out there. LOL
  22. I just ordered 5 dozen with free personalization. I went Pro Plus. For me it is a King TEC hybrid and going back to a blade style PW(Zip Core) away from the set type PW. I love my other wedges and love my irons so those aren't going anywhere. I love my driver (Max LS has gone further and treated me almost as well as the G400 MAX forgiveness wise) I jumped back onto the 3 wood Merry go round and have a Sim2 I am trying to decide on a shaft to try. Since I am going all-fit universal adapters, I did put my old FW shaft into it to try.
  23. Titleist makes Pro v1 and other balls in and out of the US. West coast folks have found Pro v1s that were made in another country. I believe it was Taiwan, but not 100% sure.
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