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Titlemade

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  1. The longest lasting 5W in my bag was the R9. That said, I love my SIM 5W and it's an absolute pleasure to hit off the deck.
  2. Most better fitters will check each club for lie angle changes since the total length of the club changes as well. If you are questioning your lie angles, I wouldn't worry about what they are currently. I would see if they are individually a good fit at each of their lie angles. The best way I have found to do this is to hit 5-10 balls from the fairway with a vertical line of Dry-Erase marker fresh on the ball. If your lie angle and length are good, you will imprint a vertical line on the center of the face. Lies too upright will angle to the top of the toe and opposite for too flat. This is a great way to really know your set of irons works for you.
  3. Start with a club that looks good to your eyes. Confidence sheds tension over the ball and can go a long way in the quality of shots. Some golfers can hit blades with more consistency due to a more confident swing with less muscle tension. The majority of others are the exact opposite and do that with a large sole and lots of offset. Same principle either way. I like a heavy club and that is my comfort blanket.
  4. I have the Rbladez Tour and have the RSi tp on my fitting cart. Save yourself a lot of money and just buy the Rbladez. I don't find the tps to be any softer and the tours actually have a tad less offset. Other than that, they are very close to identical.
  5. The only thing right biased about the AB for me is hitting it out of the heel from the insane playing length. The TP badge has no higher standards of tolerances and comes off the same manufacturing line. Any major manufacturer of big box retail will have a +-2 tolerance on loft from checking over the years. My current R15 is 10.5 and measures 10 with face more than 2 open. Squaring that thing brings it down much lower.
  6. Just about every shank starts with a club that travels too far to the inside on the way back. When a club is heavier, this will happen more often due to the fact that you can make the club travel without lifting it as much. Game improvement irons are usually a lighter total weight and are often swung back and up with more ease. Great way to help fight the underlying cause if you ask me!
  7. Spin loft is the most common reason to hit center strikes with a loss of distance. See if you can hit your driver just as far from teeing it down farther back in your stance while choking down on the club. This will make the club set up more like the fairway wood you are hitting. If the results are just as good then you need to work on delivering the club to the ball in the same manner and hit balls slowly working ball position forward and hands back up the grip as you go. If you work from middle to forward with ball position over many balls, you should keep the same angle of attack as you back off the grip.
  8. I'm going to take a different approach to this question and analyze the club and shaft as a package. Usually blades come with a heavier total weight to include a 120-130g shaft. The biggest difference I noticed while hitting the RSi1 was the light weight of the club. I had to swing with a much smoother tempo to keep track of the club, but when I did that I got great consistent results. I think that is the biggest difference for me because I use tour issue x100 shafts in my gamers. I also tend to hit irons with more offset a tad behind the ball. I have more muscle memory for the hands than head of the club. So total weight and offset are my only real differences in clubs.
  9. There was a pretty good article written recently here that compared three wedges of different wear and their spin characteristics. In the end it was very little difference with full shots and only the oldest wedge had a minor loss with partial shots. It made me rethink my new wedge set every other year. You have to think about how many balls are hit by touring professionals before they change wedges. Even if it's once a season, they have hit more balls with them than most would in several years or maybe even a decade.
  10. I tried to put them head to head, but my R15 plays at 44 3/4". I can only hit the AB out of the heel unless I take an extremely smooth swing. After fitting several golfers with these two I have come to the conclusion that the AB is for a smoother transition and the R15 does better for a freewheeling swing. The only exception is the slicer. Always an R15 cranked up loft and full draw. This works extremely well to straighten out flight.
  11. One way to test this out would be to head to the retailer and throw a fairway wood shaft in a driver head. I know the SLDR and R15 will convert without issue. The biggest concern will be if you get too vertical in swing path and start hitting duck hooks. I have done it before on an extremely windy day and at the end of the round I found it was shorter than just going with a 3w. Good luck.
  12. Pack it up when it gets dark. The guys and gals in the shop have families to get home to.
  13. I game Pro V1x, but when it drops below 50 outside I switch to the Project a. Great ball for any slower swing all season, but perfect lower compression for the cold weather long hitter.
  14. I switched from the SLDR to R15 this year and have always turned the loft down to leave the face open. I have seen a more consistent fade with my new driver and easily taken left out of play with the 10.5 opened all the way where I had to use a 12 in the SLDR to get the same launch. You could also shorten the length of the club to help a flatter effective lie angle get the face more open and pointing right. Both of these have worked well for me.
  15. I like the Ping G series for that price. Go as new as you can while staying in that budget. Anything newer is just a small tweak to performance and a bit less loft to get the ball to go farther.
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