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Everything posted by Noodler

  1. Just finished a new iron set build for @Phabs and thought I'd post since they're perfect for the season... Happy Halloween!
  2. Sorry to hear about your shoulder trouble. I have had the same for this entire past season and finally found a doctor that actually knows what he's doing. I would NOT recommend Panorama; go find an ortho that is part of a sports medicine practice. I found Dr. Adam Seidl at UC Health. He's part of the CU Sports Med team. So far he's done the best work for me and got me back out on the course after missing 6 weeks entirely (after spending much of the previous couple months only able to swing at 50-75% effort and with lots of pain). I'm now swinging pain free and may have avoided surgery, but that option is still hanging out there if it flares up again. At least this time I'm confident that Dr. Seidl actually knows how to fix the problem instead of the joker I was dealing with at Panorama.
  3. Unfortunately I never did the investigation because as I previously noted, I honestly believe intuitively that the 3rd option is the correct method (adding the weight to the shaft+grip assembly's balance point). Choosing the best MBI is exactly what you're proposing. Take a bunch of clubs with known MBI values and see if there's a pattern in your ability to find center-strike accuracy and great results. The real key though with MBI is to make sure you are testing clubs that are across the club categories of driver, woods, hybrids, irons, and wedges to truly see/prove that the chosen MBI value is optimal.
  4. The answers you seek are in "Decoding the Golf Swing Plane" https://www.amazon.com/Decoding-Golf-Swing-Plane-Striking-ebook/dp/B00M8CCN1C/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=
  5. I use the head weights as the basis for what happens with the shafts. If there's a difference in head weight (6-8g) then there should be a corresponding difference in shaft length. I do not subscribe to the typical 1/4" length change from PW to #9 and if the PW to GW has a weight change then there better be a length change to go with it.
  6. I start with the wedge length preference to guide the rest of the set (as long as the iron heads can be adjusted to the required lie angles based on the determined club lengths; this is a bigger concern if the iron heads are not forged/more adjustable). Your setup posture with the wedges needs to be "right" and then you need a consistent progression from there up into your short/mid/long irons. Once you have the club length determined, you can assess the needed club weight/head weight of the 7 iron (or some like to use the 6 iron). You can use lead tape to add weight to the club and test your center-strike accuracy. Eventually you will land on what feels the best for your swing. The rest of the build is then calculated based on that test club.
  7. The correct answer is that you have stumbled onto a very good club MOI and MBI setup for your swing. Any fitter with an MOI machine can measure and potentially reverse engineer this fit into your other clubs if they understand MOI/MBI. And for the millionth time, swingweight does not measure what most golfers think it means...
  8. Drilling out the hosel will typically only net about 4-5g of weight reduction. Another idea is to also grind the sole for a couple more grams. Note though that having heavier wedges isn't necessarily a bad thing. Wedges are often used when gripped down or with partial swings. Both situations will benefit from a higher swingweight on your wedges.
  9. There's almost never "just a weight difference" with different flex rated shafts. When the weight changes, the flex profile changes. Regarding the AMT Black, I would be surprised if any adult male fits into the R300... they're pretty darn soft in the long irons.
  10. I have never seen step distance data for Nippon shafts like we have for True Temper stuff. It probably exists, but not out in the wild. The best way to identify the shaft is to pull the grip and the tape and see what's printed on the butt of the shaft.
  11. Morikawa's takeaway and backswing are so silky smooth it's like watching poetry in motion... lot's of good stuff to pick up on if you watch this a few hundred times...
  12. You can't "see" whether an adapter is faulty. You either have to experience it (by comparing with a known good one) or by measuring. The bad adapters I've run into look "just fine".
  13. You are smart to be cautious because there are some seriously crappy after-market adapters that are sold. I was burned by this multiple times before I realized that one of my adapters really didn't seem to be doing anything when I made an adapter change while another one of my shafts with the OEM adapter clearly worked correctly. I then figured out how to measure the changes made by the different adapter settings (Callaway OptiFit in this case) and I was able to determine which adapters I had that worked and which didn't. I was finally able to find a trusted supplier of after-market adapters that work, but I had to go through a lot of bad ones to figure it out.
  14. I think you should prepare yourself for the possibility that the head is either no longer where you think it is (lost) or is now damaged by the equipment used by the course workers (range picker and/or lawnmowers).
  15. Just to set the record straight on the use of Boron... The addition of the Boron absolutely does not change the feel of a club. Many golfers give the material used in the club head far too much credit for the club head's feel. It's the design of the club head that far, far outweighs the material that it is constructed from. The reason why Boron got this bad reputation is twofold. First, the MP-25 that came out with the Boron had the #6 iron in all the fitting carts. The #6 iron was the first iron in an MP-25 set to use their new "micro-slot" technology (kind of a really slim undercut cavity that was hidden under the plastic badge). It was this undercut that was responsible for the feel of that club. If they had instead put the #7 iron in the fitting carts back then, the tune sung by many golfers who demo'd the club would have been incredibly different. I play MP-25 irons as one of my primary sets in my rotation and they have a fantastic feel (very smooth and solid strike feel). I filled in the micro-slots in the #5 and #6 irons using a tungsten polymer and they feel just about as nice as the #7-PW. Similarly, it was the design of the JPX-850 that did not have that better Mizuno traditional feel, not the addition of the Boron that caused the concern. Mizuno has also used Boron in other clubs (like the T7 wedges) and they feel just as you would expect. It's not about the Boron...
  16. @Phabs purchased the custom ferrules and brought the build to me. They were a little tight for the install, but I was able to make them work. This is definitely a cool looking unusual color combo. I don't think Mizuno will do custom ferrule options, but it's an interesting idea for them.
  17. @HISPL - I'm trying to figure out why you're arguing against a fact that most every golfer learns in their first year or two of playing. The fact that more backspin (typically provided by higher lofted clubs) results in more stable ball flight. What you state about spin axis differences is true, but you are skipping the fact that the spin axis tilt is less likely to occur to the same degree when the backspin is higher. So higher spin is your friend to help stabilize golf shots. This fact is discussed in many TXG videos (and plenty of others available).
  18. GForce training clubs. Hands down, the most challenging training aid I've ever owned. Learning to swing it correctly and being able to actually hit a ball straight with it will force most golfers to completely transform their swing technique. It's the only training aid that I still use almost every day and that's saying something...
  19. Agreed. I wish I could still play my SPB set, but as I aged and my swing speed/strength decreased, the SPB shafts had to be pulled.
  20. It was simply pointing out that the less club grip in your hand, the less leverage you will have. Maximum leverage would require the maximum amount of the grip available to be in contact with the maximum amount of your hand. You're basically cheating yourself out of some control, but as I noted, if it works for you.. carry on.
  21. Lost leverage? Consider the further extreme of having the grip even further down in your hand so that the butt would be about down to the middle of your hand. Would that increase leverage? Of course not, so it stands to reason that having more of the grip in contact with more of your hand is going to provide the most leverage. I really think it's just a feel thing for you. If you can play the level of golf you want with your current grip, then don't question it.
  22. If you use the glass beads, you certainly do not want a "layer" added to your mix. Follow the directions for the ratio very carefully based on the weight of the epoxy mix. Also, when installing any kind of metal tip weight (brass, lead, etc.) you should wrap the weight with a layer of tape (I use double-sided) before insertion into the shaft tip. You don't want that metal on metal "loose" connection as it can add unwanted vibrations/sounds when you strike a ball. A simple test I use is to "hang" the club upside down on my index finger and bounce the grip end off the ground to get the club vibrating. Hold the head end up near your ear and you should hear a beautiful clear and clean kind of chiming sound coming off the club. If you hear or feel an odd vibration, then you know there's a problem with your build.
  23. Yep, or find a Super Peening Blue (heavier than the Orange). SPECS - N.S.PRO Super Peening Orange (middle kick point) Product Flex Length in. (Count No) Weight (g) Kick Point Shaft Diameter mm(in) - Butt Shaft Diameter mm(in) - Tip RI-K12 PRO R 39~35 (#2~9, W) 118.0 Middle 15.24 (0.600) 9.02 (0.355) SI-N12 PRO S 39~35 (#2~9, W) 120.0 Middle 15.24 (0.600) 9.02 (0.355) SI-D12 PRO X 39~35 (#2~9, W) 127.0 Middle 15.24 (0.600) 9.02 (0.355) SPECS - N.S.PRO Super Peening Blue ( butt kick point) Product Flex Length in. (Count No) Weight (g) Kick Point Shaft Diameter mm(in) - Butt Shaft Diameter mm(in) - Tip RI-P12 PRO R 39~35 (#2~9, W) 122.0 Butt 14.80 (0.583) 9.02 (0.355) SI-G13 PRO S 39~35 (#2~9, W) 125.5 Butt 15.24 (0.600) 9.02 (0.355) SI-A13 PRO X 39~35 (#2~9, W) 129.0 Butt 15.24 (0.600) 9.02 (0.355)
  24. Unfortunately it's this "perception" of swingweight that perpetuates exactly what it is not. It's because the term "swingweight" makes golfers think that it represents the weight of a club when swung when it's nothing of the sort. It's merely the measurement of the static balance of a club about a 14" fulcrum. A club of significantly less total weight can be made to be a D9 swingweight, while a club of much more total weight could be made to measure C8. Trust me that when you swing the C8 club, that it's going to feel a LOT heavier, thus most golfers would think "this has much higher swing weight". Swingweight is a valid concept (build approach) when constructing a set of clubs that use the same components (heads, shafts, grips), but is not a valid measurement as a comparison between clubs that are unlike each other.
  25. Be careful with how much build-up tape you can get away with under a putter grip. Putter grips are typically much thicker material and stretch less when being installed. They are also notorious for getting stuck during installs, so you should be mindful of these concerns before you go crazy with building up the tape layers under a putter grip.
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