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Ri_Redneck

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  1. As for the bolts, most are interchangable, but I highly recommend that you get the specific bolt for your model. the lengths can vary slightly sometimes and you may get a loose head when the bolt is fully inserted. The tip on the Cobra wrenches went up a size between the Fly-Z & LTD/F7 series. The smaller wrench CAN be used on the later heads, but you have to be careful because the tip can round out the torx head on the screw since it doesn't fit tight. It is always best to use the proper wrench and there are plenty out there on ebay. BT
  2. This is what I do. I have my vise mounted so that I can place a tee in the tip and clamp the shaft so that the head of the tee is up against the wall. BTW, I always cut a little shoulder on the tapered part of the tee to avoid the possibility of splitting a shaft tip while shoving the grip on. I then tap the ferrules into position and dry fit to check weighting. I use the rubber tungsten tip weights for fine tuning since they are so easy to trim precisely. Lastly, I try my best to use the same amount of epoxy on each clubhead. I'm typically spot on with each build. BT
  3. IMHO, the PERFECT GRIP! Great grip in the rain and outlasts most other grips 3 to 1. BT
  4. If by inexpensive, you mean low quality? No. However, there are lots of high quality shafts out there for short money. You just have to be prudent who you buy from. BT
  5. I'm 58 with arthritis in my neck, shoulders, hands hips and knees. I've been in graphite iron shafts for going on 10 yrs. I hit off mats probably 3-4 days a week when I'm in the office. Joint problems are a thing of the past. I like my irons heavy and hit my 7i 165-170. Shafts I like are RIP Tour 115 R (favorite but no longer available), Recoil Proto 125 F4 (second favorite), and the SF i110 R. I shafted my MP14s wiht the Fuji Pro Tour 115s just before selling my house and they are still in storage. All I got to do is make dry swings with them, but they felt awfully nice. Will be moving into m
  6. I have both and they are both mid-mid shafts. Spin difference (for the shaft) would be negligible. Head and stike point have MUCH more influence on spin that the shaft. Great shafts though. The 757 runs heavier than the Beta 70. BT
  7. I did some experimenting with SGI irons in the spring and found I had a REAL hard time getting used to the feel of impact. The wide soles feel like they bounce on the turf instead of cut through (which I'm used to). The feel at impact seemed muted compared to my traditional irons and I had continuous distance control problems. Went back to my regular irons and all was good. Some players just don't get along with SGI irons. BT
  8. Since 6/1, I have been playing the Mizuno ST180 with Diamana Kai'Li Ion 70 S @ 44.5". Why, cause all my other drivers are in storage. I must say I have gotten pretty efficient with it though. My SS is 105+/- and I've been getting 250+ carry on solid strikes. Easy to work both ways too. BT
  9. At first, I was put off by the large heads. However, I've gotten used to them now and don't mind at all. Oddly, playing a smaller head doesn't bother me either now that BIG is the norm. Tolerance is a beautiful thing! BT
  10. Total swing overhaul started only a few months ago? You shouldn't even be on the course! Everything is in turmoil and you're trying to score. Put in the range hours until you no longer have to think about the swing. THEN, get on the course. BT
  11. Let's address the elephant in the room. You have a 44.5" driver with a counterbalanced shaft. If the head doesn't weigh around 210g, the club is way to light. If you didn't have weight added to the head at all, I would bet your in the mid C range. If you can't feel the clubhead, then your timing and release will be all over the place. I play my drivers at 44.5" too and the F7 head that I have shafted with the Copper Mamba (also CB) weighs in at 214g to give me the right feel. Have a competent clubmaker weigh and swingweigh the club and get you comparable with your long irons and se
  12. If your driver is not what it needs to be, then leave it at the house and just play up a tee. Odds are you will be playing your approach shots from the same place you would if playing driver from further back. Now, that's for playing. Now get on the range and work out the issues with the driver! BT
  13. Of all the Mizzy irons I have, I like the MP5s the best. Their solid from the 4i to the PW and I have no issue being aggressive with any of them. If you haven't hit them, give them a try. BT
  14. First of all, using the same shaft in the 4i that you used in the 3i, but NOT tipping it, would leave the 4i playing softer than the 3i. The 4i probably should be tipped a bit more to give the same flex-feel. As for distance, you COULD make the club a bit shorter to cut back on the distance, but you don't really know if you need to. I say, build the 4i, tipping per manufacturer's recommendations, and see what kind of distance you get. THEN, start tweaking to get the gapping you want. BT
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