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Ri_Redneck

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    RI_Redneck

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  1. Is the pad adjustable for those who play with a "not so neutral" grip? I might be interested if so. BT
  2. First off, it makes no sense at all to attempt to SW match AND MOI match. They're both a type of "swing heft" matching that aren't really comparable with each other. With typical MOI matching, with proper total weighting, SW increases slightly as the clubs get shorter. Total weight will increase also in fairly even increments as the clubs get shorter. In your efforts to do this, your total weight is all over the place with a max 22.5g difference between the 38 & 42! I think you should take a good look at what you have and rethink things. Just my humble opinion though. Good luck. BT
  3. Carry is always the first thing I figure, especially if there's something I have to CARRY. If the front of the green is open and a run-up shot is possible, then other options become available. In the OP's scenarios: 1. The play is the stock 6i which on his list will land 5y short of the pin and most likely release a bit for a reasonable putt at birdie. 2. It depends on the green. Soft is a 7i and firm is an 8i (and hope for some check-up). BT
  4. I think I need a beer. Those TW increments seem a little off to me. Just sayin. BT
  5. I prefer 2 for competitive rounds, but 1 for everyday play. Because I know I can easily improve my putting. BT
  6. ALL driver faces have a thick region near the center which thins as you move towards the edges. Any time you have repeated contact in the thin regions, you will have face failure. It's physics and it can't be overcome without designing the edges thicker. If you want your drivers to last longer you're going to have to start making contact closer to the center. Otherwise, get driver heads designed for higher speeds. https://krankgolf.com/ https://www.banggolf.com/ https://www.callawaygolf.com/clubs/drivers/ld-spec-drivers/ https://www.sellingerspowergolf.com/shop https://ospsgolf.com/ BT
  7. The key to making a lasting grip change is to work in small steps. Mark your grip with a sharpie or something (I make a tiny nick in the grip collar) where your left thumb is now so that you can place your hands exactly the same all the time (BTW, this is legal for play). Adjust your hands SLIGHTLY weaker (maybe 1/16") and hit balls like that for a week. See how the change affects your ball flight. Adjust more as needed. Small changes are MUCH easier to deal with than a big change. BT
  8. If you keep the same length and go with a 6TX, the SW will only be 1-2 points higher, if any. It may actually be better for you. Many players like heavier SW than what is considered normal. All Ventus shafts have a 3" parallell tip, so removing 1" will be fine. Depending on what weights you have now, others are available from Mizuno. But there is considerably mass on the bottom of the weight that could be sanded off to make the ones you have lighter. Start with them as they are, and only sand off a tiny bit at a time until your happy. BT
  9. The 6TX is 3g heavier uncut than the 6X (68g vs 65g). Making the club 1" longer with a 6TX will probably put you about 7-8 SW points higher than you were with the 6X @ 45". There is a 5X Ventus Blk @ 58g but it will feel considerably softer in flex at 46". Only YOU know if you want to go there. IF you have the ability to lower the weight of the clubhead by 4-6g, then you can probably make the 6TX work @ 46". Personally, I like to go up in flex if making a driver much longer. I typically play 70-75g X & S flex shafts in my 44.5" drivers and I used a 65TX CB shaft in my 47.5" driver and it worked out great. Good luck. BT
  10. I suspect repeated high-face contact is stressing the face. Moe toward the center should hold up better. Regardless, You would do well to get a head that is designed to withstand higher SS. BT
  11. Just a heads up on the long driver thing. We have a beautiful 74° day here in Boston today, so I went to the range for lunch break. During my session, I hit 8 balls with the HZRDUS Yellow Speedzone driver and all were in a 15yd window down the center. I hit my LTD / HZRDUS Black gamer before and after, with similar results, and it's very difficult to feel any difference when swinging these two drivers. For the record, here are the specs for both drivers: Cobra LTD Pro @ 10.5° - HZRDUS Black 75 6.0 @ 44.5" TW - 334g, SW - D6, MOI - 3074.2g/cmsq Cobra SZ @ 10.5° - HZRDUS Yellow 65 6.5 @ 47.5" - TW - 310g, SW - D5, MOI - 3107 g/cmsq BT
  12. Yes, Granite Links in Quincy, MA. I have played it probably 10 times and now know every hole by heart. Yet it still kicks my butt every time I play it. It's a links course on top of the highest point in Boston. The wind is ALWAYS blowing 15 mph or better and there is tons of trouble on every hole. Love to play there though, so I'll be back for more punishment soon! BT
  13. DO you find you have to tamp the shaft in hard to get it to seat completely? I've seen clubheads where you had to almost hammer the shaft in. Can't remember the brand, but that would cause a mechanical lock that would be hard to overcome. I bought reamers and reamed any head with a tight fit after that. BT
  14. If you can hit a strong 3w off a tee, there's no reason you can't hit a driver off the tee. It just need your driver to feel like the 3w and you need to swing it like the 3w. Once you do that, all your driver troubles will go away. BT
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