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Everything posted by Ri_Redneck

  1. I have two Odyssey V-Line putters. The first one I got and changed the 15g weights for 25g weights. I liked it so much that I got a second backup for home practice on my Birdie ball mat and just in case something happened to my gamer. I haven't bought heavier weights for it yet because I used a slightly different grip on it and the feel was not that different. Definitely lighter though. After practicing with it every night for a couple of weeks, I tried putting with the heavier one and was leaving everything short. I was using the same amount of force with the putts, but the heavier weight was slowing the putterhead slightly. I was coming up about 2' short on 10' putts on the 11 stimp mat. I went and got the old 15g weights, put them in my gamer and started rolling it the right distance. After all of that, it's obvious to me that a heavier putter will slow the putterhead down when making a stroke with the same effort used with a lighter putter. So, IMHO, going to a heavier putter for faster greens makes sense. BT
  2. I'm not a bonded hosel guy. I'll stick with the ST-Z FWs. BT
  3. Yeah, optimal launch for any wedge depends on the shot you're trying to hit. It could vary, A LOT. BT
  4. I've found the HZRDUS Yellow to be a good performer that balances out good for me. BT
  5. I don't see anything in the design that would make it much more low spin than any other modern 3w head. Did you try higher loft? 16.5° perhaps? 9° is fairly low for launch. BT
  6. No. It's not an issue since it's the lightest club in your bag. I played 80-90g shafts up until I was 50. More weight smooths out my tempo and I actually get more speed, not less. BT
  7. Funny how football has now entered the conversation. I played for several years in TX and even now can't get up in the morning without thinking about it..... Especially since the vast majority of the pain I go through each day is because of it. BT
  8. Just get a couple of rubber balls. Keep one in your car and the other with your TV remote. Squeeze it when driving or watching the tube. You'll have killer hand strength in no time. BT
  9. With a negative AoA and short iron, yes. With driver, no. BT
  10. If you haven't seen Jones' training videos from back in the 30's, you should check them out. I bought the DVD set and ripped them all to MP4 so I can keep them on my laptop. Great instruction even with today's tech. BT
  11. Sure! Remove the cogs, tape off the hole at the bottom of the hosel on the head, pour it full of epoxy and inset the Callaway adapter. Should look pretty sweet! BT EDIT: Just kidding BTW!!!
  12. I see a lot of folks attempting to hit driver with the ball too far forward and then try to hold off release to square the face when it gets there. It's GOT to be robbing them of speed and efficiency. I have always played the ball around left armpit (righty), no more than 1" in front of 3w position. I like to feel like I don't reach peak speed until just after impact. I know that's actually impossible, but the feeling of TRYING to do that gives me the best results. BT
  13. I've run into the same situation with some driver heads. I believe it is drag and I'll tell you why. I've played a ton of drivers in my life and one thing I noticed when driver heads started getting a lot bigger is it just felt like there's more wind resistance when I was swinging them. Even now, I can grab one of my persimmon drivers (43.5") and it swings "fast" so easy. I can take one of the larger and longer ones and it seems like it takes more effort to swing it the same speed. It seems like the same scenario with your driver and 300 mini, smaller head - easier to swing. Also, when I first got the Fly-Z+ with the big sliding weight groove on the bottom, I would swear I could hear the difference when swinging it. There was more "swoosh" than with drivers without the groove. I have since only played what I consider more aerodynamic heads that seem to slip through the air easier and it seems to make a difference for me. All anecdotal I know, but that's my perspective. When trying different lengths, I have found that the combination of total weight and MOI make a pretty significant difference too. When I was building my long driver last year, I found I had to go with a lighter CB shaft to get the feel of the club right. Total weight was a little lower and MOI was higher than my regular 44.75" drivers when I got it feeling good though. Course, I was comparing 48" with 44.75"! I know MOI should be a little different with length, but I am not completely sure HOW MUCH it should change based on club length. Perhaps Howard can expand on that. BT
  14. I am of the same mindset. However, there are MANY out there that do just that. Some are actually very good players. It's a preference thing that depends on how you were brought up playing the game. BT
  15. Ping i210 Titleist T100 Along with those mentioned above. BT
  16. Driver - 10.5° 3w - 14.5° 5/7w - 18° 4i - 24° 5i - 27° 6i - 30° 7i - 34° 8i - 38° 9i - 42° PW - 46° GW - 52° SW - 56° LW - 60° BT
  17. You know, Google is fine for finding recipes, night clubs or other entertaining stuff. But when it comes to golf, there's no place like WRX! BT
  18. Didn't realize this was from 2017 until I went down to my swinging area, immobilized my right wrist with paint stick pieces and gorilla tape and tried swinging. LOL! Anyway, the only way I could generate decent speed was to take a very loose grip with the right hand and swing mostly with the left. Course, I already have an 85% left hand swing as it is, so it was just getting the proper grip with the right that was the issue. i noticed in the OPs avatar, he let his right hand slide up the shaft to get a longer backswing. I didn't have to do this because my full backswing is only up 10 & 11 with my left arm. So I was able to leave my right hand at the same place on the grip, just keep the fingers loose, but still guiding. My best estimation was about 80% of my normal swing. With some practice, I think breaking 80 would be possible on courses of suitable length. From what I have read in the last hour. After surgery, the wrist will rotate, but not bend. Loss of speed will be the primary problem. However, with enough practice and playing courses of the proper length, all should be fine. I believe a strong lead hand grip would be best to allow the least motion in the trail wrist though. Good luck! BT
  19. You can also pull the shaft and trim about 1/2" from the tip and re-install. This will move the centerline of the shaft more towards the heel giving a bit of toe hang. It won't be much though. To get more, you need to add weight toe side. It would be ideal if there were threaded weights like the Camerons or Odyssey putters. BT
  20. Aside from the obvious loft differences that have already been mentioned. Clubhead MOI can vary a fair amount even between GI and SGI heads. The term "Game Improvement" in general means a clubhead that is DESIGNED to help golfers hit straighter (MOI), higher (Vertical CoG) and farther (loft & VCoG). To really see if a clubhead is going to be easier for you, you have to first look at the specs of your current clubhead and compare those to the ones for other clubheads you're considering. BT
  21. In the end, the only one that can tell if it's right for you is you. You have to try them out and see. Best thing about driver heads these days is that it's simple to move the heads from shaft to shaft and you HAVE to compare heads using the same shaft. And don't forget that the weighting and balance of the club is EXTREMELY important in it's performance. ALWAYS have a roll of lead tape when trying a club because stock is rarely what is best for a given golfer. BT
  22. That CAN happen with aftermarket adapters, but I have bought several Cobra and Mizuno and had no issues. In the OP's pic, the angle seems to be the same, but the top of the ferrule is different. the one on the right has a wider opening at the top where the one on the left has an off-center opening. Angle appears the same though, so they should behave the same. BT
  23. Hmm. Are they bottoming out in the port or just binding. IOOW, is the weight thicker than the port is deep? BT
  24. It's a 20% reduction in the MOI number, but that doesn't correlate to a 20% reduction in dispersion. As a matter of fact, no one has ever related the MOI number to an actual yardage dispersion number, either distance or angular, for any given strike point on the face that I am aware of. We seem to still be waiting for those tests. As far as being "demanding" to hit, I haven't found a 440+ cc head that WAS demanding to hit once fitted at the proper loft, with the proper shaft. I also haven't found a driver head that will give the same distance on-center as it does 1/4" off the toe. Sure, modern drivers beat a persimmon or old <300cc steel driver head by a good bit, but comparing 440-460 cc heads is not going to show anything huge. Sorry. BT
  25. I know it's been said that all adapters work the same, but that's not exactly the case. Some work by angling the adapter in the oversized hosel of the clubhead (TM - offset tip, Callaway, Titleist - cogs and any others with cogs or a tip piece that is offset). With all of these adapters, when the shaft is rotated, they stay in line with the shaft (TM tip piece will wobble). Others work by angling the shaft in the adapter which then fits tightly in the oversized hosel of the clubhead (Cobra, Mizuno, Ping, Tour Edge and any others where the tip piece is centered). With these adapters, when the shaft is rotated, the entire adapter wobbles. Since Mizuno offers 4° of adjustment, theirs wobbles considerably. Car1 above is incorrect in his assessment. BT
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