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Everything posted by LeftDaddy

  1. I have the SL2. Overall I love it. It is a good walking bag, and having both the single and double straps is a nice option. It is super stylish. I get comments often. It is lightweight. It carries easily, and carries all 14 of my clubs. It is very well made and durable. There are cons though. The pockets are tight, and thus the bag doesn’t hold all that much for its size. This isn’t a deal breaker, as much more stuff would make it heavier (and that’s what I’m trying to avoid). But the pockets do not expand in the least. Also, the zippers get stuck often. It’s really only one zipper on my bag, and I can always get it to zip after some fooling around with it, and the problem seems to have lessened maybe as the bag has “broken in”. But I was very close to returning it in the beginning due to the zipper issue. All of that said, at 30% off price this is a great bag.
  2. Early hip turn causes an inside takeaway, and causes your arms to run on at the top (which leads to disconnection). It isn’t impossible to play golf with an early hip turn, but it requires some compensations. Ideally the hips start at about P1.5.
  3. I went to Walmart and bought a shag bag of 24 new but crappy/inexpensive golf balls. Some Wilson ball I think (and nothing against Wilson, they make some good stuff…these were just their lowest of the low). Anyway, I took a 3w, hybrid and driver to the worst tee shot on my course and hit 3-4 tee balls with each. Of course, I hit 9 of 10 dead in the middle, and then played the hole the next day and hit one in the hazard lol. So even this isn’t foolproof…it takes multiple attempts and takes simulation of a “real” shot, etc. But keep at it and it will help. And the biggest thing is just getting your mind right on the course, about your routine and being totally OK with the range of outcomes. That’s the biggest thing.
  4. Go for it on the par 4…no penalty hazards means it is go time. Driver on the par 5. I see no reason to believe that laying back with a 3w or whatever gives you any advantage over your driver there, so you may as well hit it (and accept that you will hit some foul balls, just like you would laying back…but at least with the driver you gain a lot of yardage). Then, on your approach, get it as close to the hole as possible.
  5. It’s so many things. It’s your swing faults. It’s mental. It’s misperception of how good you really are on the range. It’s that the range and the course just aren’t the same things at all. It’s that you have no fear of foul balls on the range but do on the course. Etc. Ive tried to “fix” this over the years, but I’ve learned only (a) to mitigate it, and (b) to just live with it (because just as often the opposite happens…I hit it terribly on the range and just say “forget it” and go play and everything is a lot better). Anyway, here is how I attempt to mitigate it: 1. At some point during your range time, make sure pretend that you are hitting at certain targets and grade yourself. Go through your whole on course routine, etc. 2. This is the biggest one…Develop a pre-shot routine (and practice it on the range). The pre-shot routine can be very unique to you, but at a minimum it needs to accomplish 2 things…getting yourself fully committed to the shot you are about to hit and all of the potential outcomes (and being ok with it), and practicing whatever swing feels / keys you are working on so that when you stand up to the ball your mind focuses fully on the shot. 3. Occasionally go practice on the course. And by practice I mean, for example, hitting the tee shots that bother you most 10 times. Going to a specific yardage and hitting 5 or 10 shots to the green from there. Practice varying your yardages with the same club. Hit from different lies, etc. This requires a quiet day on the course, helps if you have a membership, need to be by yourself most likely, etc. So it isn’t easy, but you need to do it occasionally. Otherwise you kinda just have to accept that the range and the course are very different things, thus you don’t quite know what you have until you hit a few shots on the actual course. The more you accept that, the less this discrepancy bothers you (and like I said, it sometimes works in your favor too).
  6. I’ve toyed around with it but never found it successful. For some reason I hit it too hard if I do it for lag putts, and if I do it for short putts it causes me to close the clubface down too much at the last instant (I guess my mind is trying to save me from blocking the putt or something). Im sure it’s a better approach if you can work out the kinks and / or apply the techniques properly…but as of now it makes me worse, not better.
  7. You get a choice of blade or mallet, which is great. But it’s like the tee gift my club gave for member member one year (driver headcover)…I’m sure it’s nice but I already have headcovers…now a yardage book cover/scorecard holder , that would be useful!
  8. They are doing putter covers now (which I was pretty bummed about because I have no need for another putter cover).
  9. I have wide feet and find Ecco shoes to fit me best. They don’t typically list around $100, but you can usually get last year’s models in that range.
  10. Be careful…despite tons of evidence to the contrary, there are some on here that will attempt to convince you that as long as you lay back to 220 and “guarantee yourself a fairway” (in quotes for a reason), that you will make pars and birdies all day long and beat everyone you play, especially if those guys are long hitters. Nevermind that it leaves you 5 iron approaches instead of 9 iron approaches (because apparently short hitters can control their 5 irons better than long hitters can control their 9 irons), nor that your hybrid doesn’t guarantee you a fairway…apparently being super short but hitting 100% of your fairways is the real secret to scoring better. Apparently your length is a liability, not a strength. That those 220/240 yard drives cost you fractional strokes each time is hard for people to understand (and they make you doubly mad when you still miss the fairway even with the hybrid lol).
  11. There’s plenty more for you to learn with DECADE. This is just the Cliff’s Notes version of it and a few other course management topics.
  12. You are asking a lot of the questions I used to ask myself. I’ve now read a few books, signed up for DECADE, etc., and below are my ultimate conclusions. 1. To some extent, course management really just boils down to you doing whatever it takes to get yourself fully comfortable with the shot you are about to hit. No shot is risk free, so when I say “fully comfortable” I just mean that you’ve thought through the risk vs reward and selected the shot that you feel best maximizes your scoring opportunity all things considered. There’s math / science / art involved in that decision, but at the end of the day this is what it boils down to. You stand up to a shot with a positive plan in motion, not a “negative” plan (don’t hit it left, etc). 5. (since the above is really 1,2,3,4 of course management) Most of the math suggests that unless there is a hazard that is brought into play by hitting driver (or the fairway severely narrows, etc) you should hit driver on virtually every tee shot. The fractional strokes you gain from the extra 40 yards make up for most “wildness” with your driver. 6. Similarly, you should aim to get as close to the green on par 5s (and 4s for that matter) in 2 as possible, unless again there is some hazard that costs you penalty strokes that is brought into play by going for it. 7. If you get out of position from the tee, etc (in trees, terrible lie, blocked out, etc) take your medicine and get out of there and avoid making stupid mistakes that lead to doubles or worse 8. Get on the green as soon as possible. Not necessarily close to the pin. Get on the green so that you have a putter in your hand. Translated: if your approach leaves you a choice of trying to get it close but a miss would leave you short-sided (or worse) vs hitting to the fat part of the green and accepting that it may leave you a longish putt (but you maximize your chance of being on the green), then opt for the latter and be happy all day that you are now putting for birdie. Ive just saved you from having to read all of the books now
  13. Great thread! By the title, I assumed you would regale us with some quantum entanglement and/or uncertainty principle explanation of golf that basically says “we really don’t know where the ball is going” and “the mere act of attempting to see where it’s going affects its path”. Lol. Anyway, the actual thread is way better. And this whole thread is what drives me insane about Bryson. Those that don’t know their physics believe he knows what he’s talking about, but some of us can see through his crap at least! I’ll leave you with a George Carlin quote: “think about how dumb the average guy is, then think about the fact that half the guys are dumber than that.”
  14. I have a bad case of the chip shanks again. I can overcome them for most of a round, but then they will come back the second I try to focus on the shot and not the swing. My shanks are coming from lack of hip depth and I tend to get dumped under. I get enough hip depth on fuller swings, but on chips etc not so much. The trouble with chip shanks is that I’m technically not supposed to have much hip rotation back or though (at least I don’t believe so…most of my rotation is supposed to be in the shoulders I think). So how do I fix the chip shanks? Rotate my trail shoulder to the inside? Or do a little trail hip bump/turn? Or stand further from the ball?
  15. My 8 iron from my Callaway 2013 x-forged set broke on the driving range a few weeks ago. Had my golf club ship it off to get reshafted. They did but no longer had my current shaft…replaced with a different model project x shaft. Cost me $90. Then a few days later my 7 iron broke on the course. Had the club ship my 7 iron off to be reshafted just like my 8 iron. Except UPS loses the club head and has never recovered it. I had to buy a used one off of eBay from the UK (lefty) for about $120. Then it cost me $60 to get reshafted. So almost $300 later I have the same set of irons I already had, but now the 7 and 8 irons have a different/heavier shaft. I should have just bought new clubs I guess…but I absolutely love the ‘13 x-forged model. Now the question is should I reshaft the whole set, or just the 9 and PW…or buy new clubs.
  16. A few years back I would say that I was planning to retire at 55 and couldn’t wait to play 4-5 rounds per week. I then changed jobs and started working remotely, and also had a manager that was very flexible about calendars, etc. And my kids became teenagers with their own lives outside of Mom and Dad. So all of a sudden I could work full time and still play 2-3x per week. I’m now about 4 years into this routine, though my workload / schedule has become a little less flexible, and I still play golf about 1-2x per week, on average. I’d like to play more (4-5x), but I am not daydreaming of retiring at 55 anymore as I really enjoy my job, play a decent amount of golf, and have flexibility in terms of where I work. So I really do “have it made” so to speak. I’m more looking forward to figuring out a way to reduce my schedule somewhat at 55 to squeeze in more golf, but still work some. I fear that when I retire, my wife will find a way to coerce me into more tennis
  17. I think there’s pretty much nothing you can do about the stains. I have the stains on my leather car seats and some clothes and even a Tervis tumbler, and I can’t get rid of any of the stains no matter what I or my wife tries. I avoid light colored shirts if I know I’ll be wearing a lot of sunscreen.
  18. I don’t hit it 3 hundo either (does WRX revoke my membership now?), but I reconcile it this way…though I don’t hit it that far, my dispersion pattern is definitely wider than a +2s, so I’ll just target out to about 270 with a 65 yard dispersion (30 yards less but angle of dispersion maybe slightly worse but it all evens out to about the same total dispersion at 270). Two other things: (1) Scott claims that his tee shot decision tree yields different decisions if you hit it less than about 270…I’m not really sure why, so I just use the same flowchart but at 270, and (2) I don’t use a bigger dispersion than 65 yards because at some point the shot is so wayward it really doesn’t matter where you aimed it, and a dispersion too wide yields a much too conservative line which might also lead to more bogeys. Hope all of that helps.
  19. George Gankas says consistency comes from your mind and staying true to your routine, and not from consistency of swing mechanics. I thought that was profound.
  20. I have an IZ … the pics of the eBay one do look fake. You did say, though, that you thought they had changed fonts at some point?
  21. Yep, got mine. Got one of the hoodies. Hope I like it (I generally hate hoodies, but this one seems nice). Their stuff has never disappointed me.
  22. I wondered what Scott would say about folks who don’t have a consistent dispersion pattern (high handicappers), or who at least have a pattern so wide and / or long that it doesn’t fit neatly into any sort of system. I even resisted diving in to this stats based approach to course management because I thought I might fit into that camp (dispersion too unpredictable). But here’s how I would summarize what I think he has to say about this. Basically, if your dispersion is much wider than 65 yards from tee or 30 yards on approach, then you are going to be hitting a lot of penalty/hazard shots anyway, and so you may as well at least center your pattern as best you can, make as good of a swing as you can, and live with whatever happens next. Don’t hit irons off the tee, because on the off chance you hit it straight your driver will gain you so much yardage. And no amount of course management strategies can “fix” foul balls, so you may as well aim as best you can and try to at least stand confident over the ball knowing you have chosen a good shot / target (which hopefully decreases the chances of a foul ball). Im a 10 handicap who’s biggest weakness is the occasional foul ball off the tee. That advice alone has helped me so much as I’ve learned more about DECADE. And Scott also basically says Elite probably isn’t for you if you fit into the above, and so I’m generally leaning towards not renewing Foundations nor signing up for Elite. I’ve gotten what I needed to out of it and have loved it.
  23. Do it. Seriously. I’ve had a LOT of course management questions over the years that have never been answered to my satisfaction. But DECADE covers it all pretty thoroughly. And even if you disagree with a few things here or there, you at least have a system / plan of attack. I find with golf course management that merely having a system, even if sometimes wrong, is better than no system at all. And for what it’s worth I don’t have many, if any, bones to pick with DECADE. I get a lot more than $99 value out of it.
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