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buckyweet

ClubWRX
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Everything posted by buckyweet

  1. I have a Rife Rival putter that's 35" but would like to make it 38". Rather than putting an extension in it, I'd like to reshaft but am not sure what shaft to get. Could someone help me determine what shaft I'd need to get? I've reached out to Rife to ask what the OEM shaft is, but never heard back. Here's a link to the putter on Rife's site: store — RIFE GOLFHere are 2 photos of the putter:
  2. City and State (US Only): Centreville, VA Handicap: 15.3 Current Irons: Bridgestone J40 DPC Favorite Feature of the New P790 irons: Clean looks, feel, and forgiveness If selected, do you agree to participate in a review thread? We would ask you provide hi-res, quality photos, and provide a review of the clubs? Yes
  3. Happened to walk by the golf club grab bag at a thrift store last weekend and immediately picked these 2 clubs up for $2.99 each! They were the only 2 decent clubs and looked like it belonged to the same person: Taylormade R7 Limited driver 9* w/ Matrix Ozik 5.5 stiff shaft Titleist 910 3 wood w/ Aldila Voodoo stiff shaft Both are in pretty decent shape; normal wear and nothing noticably wrong with them.
  4. 13* Callaway S2H2 3 wood (Pre Big Bertha) circa early 90's Second oldest is my HONMA Sinker CB8032 putter circa mid 90's
  5. Callaway X-12 Ping-Man, that's basically what I did. I gave up on new and recent irons and am back to plain X-12's
  6. I've posted a few more photos of the Giannini at [url="https://picasaweb.google.com/103129772667181472099/Golfclubs2"]My link[/url] Let me know if there's anything in particular you're looking for. Thanks. Lester
  7. SOLD 1) Giannini Anser 2 type putter. 35.5", 74* with a Pingman grip $135 shipped 2) Bridgestone J33R 460 9.5* (KWOK'ed) - No headcover UST I.T. Stiff shaft. 44 5/8" tipped 1/4". Victory Green 0.580" + 2 wraps $75 3) TaylorMade R580XD TP 8.5* (Original headcover) TaylorMade REAX TP 64 Stiff shaft. Serial # 3B T05196. Victory Green 0.580" + 2 wraps The plastic weight (?) piece on the back of the sole appears to have melted. I bought the club like this from a GolfWRX member and it does not have any affect on its performance. I've included pictures of this. $70 *** I have only 1 wood box be
  8. I'm selling my beloved set of KWOK'ed TM300 irons because I've come to the realization that I'm no longer good enough to game these. I need game improvement clubs, not player's clubs. I had gotten these used but in great shape and got them KWOK'ed. Club work alone ran $360 on top of materials. I've played maybe 5 rounds with them with probably a dozen range sessions at the most. Here are the specs: Taylor Made 300 - Reshaft with Sensicore DG-S300 (no labels), spined Tour Velvet 0.580R (logo down) + 2 wraps Iron Lofts Lie Angle Length Swingweight 2 19 59 39.5 D-3 3
  9. TM300's are an oldie but a goodie. Great clubs
  10. buckyweet

    1995

    Wow. Brings back memories. Driver: Lynx Boom Boom 9* DG-S300 43" 3 wood: Lynx Boom Boom 13* DG-S300 42" 1-PW: Lynx Parallax DG-S300 2* up 1* weak SW: Cleveland 588 56* bent to 54*. 2* up DG-S400 LW: Cleveland 588 60* bent to 61*. 2* up DG-S400 All with Victory Greens .580 Rounds +2 wraps Putter: Ray Cook Blue Goose II 4* loft/74* lie Ball: Precept EV Extra Spin Funny thing is, I'm now 1-2 clubs shorter with higher tech clubs than I was back then with plain ol' steel shafts
  11. [quote name='AWE46M3' timestamp='1308004148' post='3304527'] They have "Tour Issue" divot tools so there is no "wrong way." [/quote] Barto78, I've been told that you're supposed to push the tool down, then press forward. This is supposed to help the grass heal faster.
  12. But I see them doing it this way for any ball mark, not just their own.
  13. The way I was taught to fix a ball mark was to push the tool in at and angle and press forward, not push the tool in and press down. In the years that I've watched golf on TV, I've yet to see one pro fix a ball mark the correct way. Is there a reason why they all do it the "wrong" way?
  14. Most of my irons set that I've played basically had standard lofts from ancient times. I just got a used set of Callaway X-14 Pros (3-PW) and original Big Berthas (1-4) and now, there's a huge distance gap between my PW and SW. My dilemma is instead having to buy a GW, I was thinking of seeing if I can get them bent weaker in lofts. I called Callaway, and they said that they can adjust the lies but won't adjust lofts other than standard. Here's what I am looking for. The 'Now' column is Callaway's standard. The 'Want' column is what I'd like: Now_____Want 1 16______16 2 18.5____18 3
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