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Bill Guy

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  1. I have both a 56 and 60 Eye 2 Gorge wedge and agree with everything said here in that they are super easy to play from any bunker including tight wet or fluffy lies. I find the 56 allows me play all types of shots around the green including from thick rough and tight lies. I find the offset head facilitates this and I have it set a little flat which allows me set my hands low to open the face and play a flop type shot even from a tight lie. I recently bought the new Eye 2 Glide wedge but for the moment just cannot get the same feel from it so still using the Gorge.
  2. Thanks Guys. I moved the tape around a few times while trying to find the spot where the feel/balance felt good to me so think based on your advice/comments I am going to remove the tape, lightly sand/clean the area with soap/water and then alcohol and then put on a new strip. The area I am placing it on the wedge is curved but flat. Hopefully that will do the trick. Hadn't thought of the brittle nature of epoxy.
  3. I have added lead tape inside the head of a cavity backed sand wedge and am delighted with the result which has produced a much improved and pleasing solid feel with the balance and swing weight spot on where I wanted it. I am now concerned the tape may fall off in play and wonder if there is a way I can permanently fix the tape in place such as with epoxy or something else.
  4. Picking up on this topic I have a favorite GoLo 5S in perfect condition well looked after but all of the yellow (or is it yellow?) paint has disappeared from the GoLo logo on the sole plate. Has anyone repainted this? I have read of people using Testers or Nail paint and wonder if anyone knows the code for the "yellow" or other paint colours Scotty use on the 2014 GoLo. Thanks for any help.
  5. I find the same. While I accept 8802 style putters are the "pure" blades the term generally includes anser/newport style putters. For me I get the best feel/touch and distance control with my Newport and Newport 2.6 but from shorter distance within 6-10' my Scotty GoLo 5S "mallet" is hard to beat. The GoLo 5S has a small head, slight toe hang and straight centre shaft. The head reminds me in many ways of an old Bullseye with an extended back and line that helps me lineup the head
  6. I have a new Spider X copper which has the Superstroke GTR 1.0 grip. I would like to replace it with a grip that is a little thicker, ideally a Superstroke Traxion GT 2.0 that I have and like on another putter. However there is a big difference in the weight of the grips, GTR 1.0 is 82g and the GT 2.0 is 51g, a significant difference that will alter the balance and swing weight of the putter. The reason I believe is that the heavier grip is made from rubber and the lighter from a foam material. I wonder if putting a 25g weight in the Traxion GT 2.0 grip would return it to a similar swing weigh
  7. Thanks Guys, found specs on the Taylormade website, GTR 1.0 grip weight is 83g. https://www.taylormadegolf.eu/Spider-X-Copper-Single-Bend/DW-JIC76.html?lang=en_DE&cgid=taylormade-putters#lang=en_DE&start=20&. I would still like to hear if anyone has replaced it with the SS Traxion Pistol GT 2.0 which is 51g and if they added any weight to balance the weight difference.
  8. I have a Spider X Copper 35" and thinking of putting a Superstroke Traxion Pistol GT 2.0 grip on it that is a little thicker than the current stock grip. Does anyone know the weight of the stock grip on it which is described as Pistol GTR 1.0. Is it the same as the Superstroke Pistol GT 1.0 which is listed at 82g? The Pistol GT 2.0 is listed at 51g so there would be a 31g difference which is quite a lot. I would love to hear also if anyone has put on the Pistol GT 2.0 grip and how they have found it. Many thanks for any help.
  9. With the introduction of the SM8 I recently took advantage of special discounts on SM7 to bag a special order 54* and 58* with Recoil 95 F4 shafts. The are replacing mizuno S5 and an old favourite ping glide SW. Other than miz irons (have Recoil shafts) I use Titleist through the bag. Titleist fitter could not offer me a wedge fitting with Recoil shafts so we decided to order a 54.08M and also 58.08M. They look great and I am delighted with them but have one question. I like to lay the 58* LW open, even very open, for some flop shots around the green turning it into a 60 or more when needed an
  10. An update: I found a Titleist agent who could place a special order for Vokey wedges and after some research and a good chat placed a special order for a 54* and 58* both with M grind, 08 bounce and Recoil 95 F4 shafts. They arrived last week and they look great but I have only been able to chip with them in the garden as we are in Covid-19 lockdown with no golf for at least another 3 weeks. A couple of things came to light in the course of deciding the Vokey specs. I use and love Recoil 95 F4’s in my JPX900 irons and had a Recoil F4 shaft fitted in a favourite old Ping Eye 2 Gorge Sand wedge.
  11. Thanks for the feedback. So it is possible to get Vokey wedges with Recoils. None of the Titleist/Vokey fitters I have approached know anything about Recoils nor can they fit for them!! I have tried having a Recoil 95 F4 shaft put in a couple of ping glide heads and while full or nearly full shots are good touch shots say within 10-20 yds are hit and miss even producing the dreaded shank on occasion when least expected... not good for confidence... the head seems a little heavier than I have been used to. My wrists are a little quick at the hit on some of those type of shots, possibly with an
  12. Is it possible to get Vokey wedges with graphite shafts or has anyone fitted recoil shafts in them and how did it work? I have Recoil 95 F4 (stiff) shafts in my Mizuno JPX 900 forged irons 5-GW and the same shaft in Mizuno S5 SW and LW. Love those shafts. I want to replace my 54* and 58* (maybe the 50* also) wedges and would like to keep the feel. I have Titleist through the rest of my bag and like the look and range of the Vokeys. Any guidance would be very helpful, thanks
  13. As someone who is constantly fiddling with my equipment in an effort to improve I am also an observer of what others in my circle, particularly those who are "good" golfers, use. My observations are that most of the best golfers in my club (excluding plus h/c golfers) have used the same equipment for years. In the case of a driver for example, despite what is said, there is very little difference between old and new in terms of distance when hit off the sweet spot and low handicap golfers tend to do that most of the time. The value of new drivers is that they are much more forgiving on off-cen
  14. Can anyone offer any feedback on the comparative advantages of either of the above as a tool to help increase swing speed for a reasonably fit senior golfer.
  15. I am talking to two club fitters about building and fitting a new shaft for my driver. One (who does not have a puring machine) says that modern manufacturing techniques mean shafts no longer need to be "pure'd" while the second (who happens to have puring equipment) tells me it is worth doing. Which is right?
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