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Everything posted by Drivingrangehero

  1. I sidelined my MP 20 HMB’s for a set of MP-37’s from 2004. The difference in ball speed is negligible when comparing loft to loft. I don’t get punished as much on strikes low on the face with the HMB’s, but I like the turf interaction and look of the MP-37’s better. I would be hard pressed to see much of a change as far as score goes between the two sets. I think there could be a benefit for someone using SGI’s over blades if you are 20+ handicapper and not finding the center of the face, but if you are a single digit handicap, I think the difference may be between the ears, which is real, I’m not mocking it. Confidence can lower scores ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  2. I did that from 1999-2007 with iron. I’d get a new set every new release (Mizuno blades) they’d get a bunch of bag chatter, then I’d get a new set. Once I bought the MP 67’s I said I’m taking better care of these beauties, bought iron covers, cleaned after every strike and washed them with soap and water after each range session. Ive since sold them and bought a mint set of MP 37’s. If I walk, I don’t use iron covers, but if I ride, I do……… ¯\_(ツ)_/¯……. and cue the iron cover hate…3.2.1
  3. Callaway Apex hybrid is very similar. Some of the same engineers from Adams ended up over at Callaway.
  4. The Maltby HY-WAY may be something worth checking out if you are looking in that category. .335 wood shafts and adjustable weights which could help dial in playing lengths https://www.golfworks.com/maltby-ke4-tc-hyway-utility-woods/p/ma0331/
  5. I seek out good shape MP-R or MP-T from 2006’ ish and have 3 in my bag currently 52 (bent to 51*) a day 56 and 60* (bent to 61*) I also have a 58* (bent to 57*)
  6. Gamer Bag Driver 18* 5 wood 21* DHY 4-PW 24*-47* GW, SW, LW Back up Bag Driver 16.5* 4 wood or (16* fairway wood) 20* Hybrid or (19* fairway wood) 23* Hybrid 5-PW 25*-46* GW, SW, LW I feel that I’m straight enough off the tee that I don’t need something to chase a driver, and I’m long enough to to get away with a 5 wood as my lay up position club. I’m sure some courses are set up to carry a 3 wood for me, but I haven’t played any that a 5 wood couldn’t fill that slot just as well. I just picked up a 18* TEE EXS PRO 5 wood that I play at 41.75” and I find it to be great off the turf and tee. When I test a fairway wood, I’d say 90% is off the turf and I only hit a handful off the tee. I mainly try to flight it up and down, then shape it as well. Once I find one that does those things well, I try to see how far I can carry it, or roll it out there, but that is far less important than shaping and flighting to me. I find most people use the 3 wood as a fairway finder to chase the driver and that’s the only time it comes out of the bag (that was me pre Howard DIY Driver tune up) Now, with the mini drivers, I see less 3 woods around. When I was a bit loose off the tee I carried a 13.5* fairway wood, but I found that I was about the same with percentage of fairways hit per round using it instead of a driver. Now that I hit the fairway with the driver much more often, I find I no longer need a 3 wood.
  7. I had a set of 716 T-MB’s and I thought they felt terrible on full swings at start, but oddly found them to feel great with knockdown punch shots….. I started to consciously hit it a bit higher on the face with some steeper digging type swings, and they felt better after that. I never had a problem off the tee, but the turf interaction didn’t work for my swing. I am convinced the sweet spot on those clubs are a groove higher than almost anything I’ve hit before. I started to hit them well, but figured they took more of an effort then the blades I played for 20 years before them. They seem to work better if you de-loft the club at impact and have major shaft lean, at least that was my experience with them YMMV! .
  8. I don’t shy away from any manufacturers completely, but I will most likely never play Ping Irons. Something about the look, feel, and turf interaction just never worked well for me. I hit the i59 a few weeks back and not impressed. I love their drivers and play one currently. The only major OEM I have never owned is Taylormade. Not that I didn’t like some of their offerings, I just happened to like their competitors better at that particular time. I almost bought a set of TM RAC TP, but they lost out to Mizuno MP-67’s. I hadn’t played a Callaway club from the original Big Bertha Driver 94’ all the way till the Callaway Apex hybrid in 2016, so I never rule out a brand or label.
  9. I still have the 23* 9031 hybrid in the bag…. It’s the only club I have other than driver, and putter in both my gamer and back up bag
  10. At one point I had the same shafts as I had in my Irons (Modus 105s hs/x1) but I have the OG HZRDUS Black 6.0 85g in them now. The reason for going with the DHY over the Hybrid was gapping. I was gapping off a 19* fairway wood at the time, now it’s and 18* TEE EXS PRO. There wasn’t much separation with the 20* Hybrid as there was with the 21* DHY. If I were to go with my 16* fairway wood, and the 20* Adams hybrid, I would drop my 19* fairway wood….. it may find its way back in my bag. I carried the 19* fairway wood because it worked better on certain holes at my home course for going over trees and cutting a corner on #2 and #18, plus the distance worked well for some lay ups off the tee, but I’m moving to Florida shortly so it may find its way back in the bag ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ .
  11. How do you find the Tacki-Mac quality of grips. I like the Royal STS Cord or the old GP Tour Velvet cord, but I have seen some Tacki- Mac Tour Select Cord for a fair price
  12. I listed it on e bay a few days ago. They have an 18 degree head only I noticed, that might be a good fit for you. I bought a 16* and then two 18, 20, and 23’s when they were selling heads only for $35 minus shipping, but I have sold the 18’s and one of the 20’s and one of the 23’s since I have been able to dial in some fairway woods. My 20 isn’t in the bag any more, but that could change, and my 23* is my 4 iron replacement in my back up bag of Mizuno HMB’s with an OG HZRDUS BLACK 6.0 ……. I love it. I can’t see it ever leaving that bag. They are truly an iron replacement, they fly a little higher than an iron but not much. The 9031 is something along the line of driving iron flight, but hybrid forgiveness (keep in mind they are players hybrids, so they are not nearly as forgiving as say a Callaway Mavrik or SIM Max) with that being said, the 9031 Proto is the most iron like hybrid I have ever hit. I had the 20* 9031 in my bag when I had a set of Titleist TMB’s and it replaced my 2+3 iron. At the time I had a Modus 105 steel shaft in it. since I have a 15* and 18* fairway woods in my gamer bag, and a 16* and 19* fairway woods in by back up bag, I don’t feel the need for the 16,18, or 20* 9031 hybrids. I carry a 21* Adams DHY in my gamer bag as a 3 iron replacement, then I go 4-PW with Mizuno MP 37’s
  13. They pop up on ebay now and again. An 18* may be best if that’s what you are hitting now, depending on gapping at the top. There are a few driving irons that are in between a hybrid and a driving iron like the Ping Crossover, Adams DHY, Taylormade DHY, Titleist U510…. Etc if I didn’t find some magic in some fairway woods, I’d probably still be carrying my 18* Adams DHY or my 16* Adams 9031…….. they both were great off the tee. I had the 18* DHY in the bag more often because I had better dispersion with it, but both were very similar in length off the tee, plus my DHY was better for punching out of the woods if you see a banged up white Adams Super 9031 (there are many, and I hate white clubs) you could always take it to your local auto body shop for paint. I had this done for a friend with some hideous orange Cobra club of his that he wanted flat black, and it turned out great!
  14. The lowest launching and most iron like hybrid in flight I have found is the Adams Super 9031 Proto. It’s almost like a super forgiving Driving Iron. It kicked a few out of my bag that were supposed to be more “iron like” or “low spin” . It kicked out my 16* Tour Edge CBX 119 and my 18* Callaway Apex (2016) I found the Adams 9031 to be better at flighting and shaping the ball over the TEE CBX119, and the Callaway just launched too high for my liking. Ive since replaced my 16* Adams Super 9031 Proto with a 18* 5 wood, but I do carry a 23* Super 9031 proto in my back up set as a 4 iron replacement
  15. They may both say standard, but one may be .600 and the other .580 is my guess https://www.grips4less.com/blogs/grips4less-blog/9548589-whats-the-difference-between-580-and-600-grip-sizes As far as feeling different and no MMC marking, post some pics and people will be able to give you better info ….. as in real or a fake!
  16. I have a couple of sets of clubs, so I’ve been building a new set and trying to figure out how I may gap my bag up top myself. I figure one of my strongest part of my game is the driver, so I’m not looking for something as a “fairway finder” to chase my driver on tight holes, so a 3 wood is not needed for me personally. I’ve found that I’m looking for a set distance to hit a club, something that I can flight up or down and work both ways. Something that will give me enough distance, but not chasing distance. For me, that is something I can run out around 250y. Primarily I will be hitting this club on some shorter holes and chasing after par 5’s in two, so I decided on something around 16.5-18* range. I wanted something a little less shallow face because I have no problem flighting a ball up off the fairway, but something that isn’t a deep faced huge footprint club, because I want to work the ball both ways, also it should lend itself to flight down as needed since I won’t be carrying a driving iron. I ended up finding a Tour Edge EXS Pro 18* 5 wood with a Tensei Orange 70s shaft worked best for me, due to its design. I’ve found that it can be shaped easily and flighted easily, not always an easy find for me. The only modification I needed to make was to cut the shaft a 1/2 inch down to 41.5” and switch the head weights from draw bias to fade bias. The Cobra Speedzone Tour 17.5 and the TEE CBX119 was great too, I just wasn’t able to shape them as well, so distance took a back seat to flight and shape for me. I think that once you set out your goals of what you want out of a club, you can attain decent results through trials.
  17. Definitely do the Howard DIY driver tune up. Its taken me from a “loose” driver of the ball and terrible fairway wood player, to those clubs being weapons for me. Between length, overall weight and swingweight, I’ve transformed my wood game from mediocre at best, to very good. I’ve applied the same principles from the Driver DIY tune up to fairway woods and the results have been amazing. It’s given me the ability to find the center of the face more consistently and it’s also given me the ability to both shape and flight shots much better. I tried out a Tour Edge EXS Pro 18* 5 wood yesterday, after chocking up a half inch and moving some headweight around, I liked it so much, I bought it. Getting the right profile shaft, overall weight/swingweight and the correct length is a game changer. Cutting down my driver to 44.5” hasn’t caused me to lose any ball speed, in fact when I’m hitting 10-20 balls, I see a slight gain in ball speed due to better impact location. Same with my 5 wood.
  18. What model Adams Hybrid is it? Some models are vastly different in shape, size and trajectory. Do you like the flight of your current Adams hybrid?
  19. I contacted True Temper about the DG CPT (Japanese market) shafts and they said they were a higher launching counterbalanced shaft that is slightly lighter at 127g than DG x100’s and they will swingweight about 2.5 less than the DG X100. Just in case anyone was looking at them online. Perhaps some over length guys looking for a lighter swingweight might be interested ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  20. My word of advise would be to try out some shafts at a big box store, with some more traditionally lofted club that you like the look of. What I have found beneficial is starting with shaft weight, and not being overly concerned with flex 1. I’d Start with heavier weight shafts around 130g drop to 120+g shafts, then 115g, 105g, sub 100g. 2. I’d pick through the profiles I liked in each weight based on the feel of the club, not numbers on the monitor with a couple of club heads I like. 3. After finding the weight and profile I like, I’d fine tune with flex and swing weight. 4. I’d repeat by going through certain selected shafts that i liked to confirm on a separate day. I will usually have a top 3 and hit all of them randomly 2-3 shots on to the next head/shaft combo, then back again 5. I’d look to fit both lie angle and playing length 6. The couple of club heads I liked, I’d demo in the shaft set up I liked, and hit off grass preferably, if not an option, an outdoor hitting bay to watch flight. 7. After finding what I liked, I,d purchase then confirm the loft, lie, and swingweight that I ordered. Some clubs manufacturers are spot on, some are terrible. 8. I’d Hit the clubs, recording my distances with each club for yardage gapping 9. I’d tweak lofts to fine tune gapping if necessary 4-GW. (Very rare I need to do that, but I have tweaked my 8 iron 1* strong and wedge 1* weak on a set of MP-32’s in the past. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 10. Enjoy the new sticks! It’s not easy to just walk into finding a good fitter, so that’s a rough draft of my thought process in self fitting. If you give the location you live in, I’m sure you can get recommendations from WRX members here I always bring a couple of balls that I play when testing out clubs. For me that’s a Bridgestone BX Happy Hunting! .
  21. The Aldila Xtorsion Copper 70TX should be in between the Orange and Blue, leaning more towards Orange. it’s less stiff in the handle than the Orange and feels more active, but tighter than a Tensei Blue. Similar to an Orange performance with more of a Blue feel. It has some action, but it feels like a nice kick compared to the blue wobble IMHO To me the Orange felt overly tight and stiff, while the blue felt much better,?but I like a nice kick at the bottom (Aldila Tour Green or 2KNV green) the Tensei blue felt like there was way to much going on in the middle and didn’t give me a kick at the bottom, more of a loose feeling. Sounds crazy, but the blue gave me phenomenal numbers like my 60TX copper does, I just didn’t like the feel. The Tensei Orange and 70TX copper I couldn’t turn over, so my dispersion suffered, and they were too low of spin for me. The Xtorsion Copper 60TX and 70TX are only 3g difference, but the torque is much lower on the 70TX. Having owned both (my 60TX is my gamer) I found the 70TX to play much stiffer. much like the Tensei Orange 70TX. I have a more moderate tempo and transition, with a mid-late release. My ball speed usually hovers between 165-168mph and on a real good day I may see 170-171mph. The 70TX was too much for me (same with the Tensei PO 70TX) but I play the Copper 60TX tipped 1/2 with no problem YMMV.
  22. Great info Howard! I was going thinking of doing a progressive length building off my 1/4-1/2 over 7 iron and going in 3/8 increments up and down. Not to do an MOI build per se, but more to match my swing posture and add a bit more weight to the long irons to soften the feel and perhaps fight higher, but these just seem to be a better option for me. I was hitting some graphite shafts that were supposed to be flighted in the same manner (high-long irons, mid-mid irons, low-short irons) and I love the high ball flight in the 3-4 iron. I carry it longer and stop it shorter, so I was looking to do some sort of poor mans flighted clubs with various DG Shafts based off my 7 iron with a DG X100 ss/x1 at 1/4 over and D4 swingweight These seem like a good fit for me and my swing. I appreciate the feedback, and think this is the direction I will go.
  23. I am very interested in this shaft, I’m not sure of the flex how much different is it from a standard DG x100 Ideally I like the DG X100 ss/x2 or SS/x1 with some weight added to the head. Since the Monaco is the predecessor of the DG Pro, are the DG Pro’s a production version of the Monaco’s?
  24. Thanks, Howard I have read about the connection between Monaco and DG pro, but next to nothing on the CPT. I was thinking of doing a build based on some past post of yours, which goes up and down in 3/8” increments. I’m not looking for a strict MOI build, but I do like my 7 iron 1/4 over and my wedges a little longer. I think the shorter long irons will be nice as well when it comes to dispersion. i think I will add tip weights in the long irons due to liking the heavier headweight. Probably going to go DG X100’s ss/x1 and have my 7 iron at 1/4 over and around D4-D4.5, maybe the progressive shorter length and added headweight going up to my 4 iron may increase spin/launch and soften the profile feel a bit. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Im Sure I’ll be doing a lot of reading and asking questions on here once I get things sorted out . thanks!
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