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  1. This is how I visualize it, shoulders rotating perfectly perpendicular to the spine axis on the way back. Also, I envision where the plane created by the clubhead on the way back is parallel to said shoulder plane as well. Then on the downswing, the shoulder plane steepens to include the ball, causing the trail arm to tuck perfectly into the trail side of the waist through to impact.
  2. Ymmv, but the Faldo drill and "staying connected with the arms at your core" has transformed my swing. It even works with Driver and longer clubs now. A lot of the success involved for me had to do with establishing the correct setup position for each club, as how to position the ball and the arms to create optimum impact. I use the "drill" on every swing I make on the course, with the exception of partial wedges and chips. For me, with longer clubs it really took a lot of trial and error to get right. Standing slightly farther away from the ball and extending the lead arm at addre
  3. What is your launch angle? That low spin at 16-17* launch might actually give your optimum carry.
  4. Pretty sure a lot of OEMs are getting a proprietary "made-for" version to slap on their newest clubs, and as such, they aren't available to purchase from a normal grip vendor. If you've found these no-cord GP Z-grips, new in cellophane from a grip bin, then I have no idea what you've got.
  5. CBX 119 sits open to my eye, very nice. The XCG7 and E8 are larger heads, and have extemely shallow faces, albeit a bit older. Ymmv
  6. The only issue might be over-building the tape in one location. Layering several times over puts much more stress on the bottom adhesive layer, as it undergoes that many more times of shear inertial stress.
  7. As always, the best results occur when the entire surface area inside the hosel/sleeve is bonded to the shaft. I always put the bulk of the epoxy into the hosel(adapter sleeve) of said club, and apply a thin coating to the prepped shaft tip surface before insertion, thus ensuring any epoxy displacement by the shaft edge doesn't result in a "dry" void near the ferrule area.
  8. JB Clear Weld, sets in 5min and cures fully at room temps in 2hrs. Very strong as rated and I've never had an issues with it in 5 years. It also breaks down at reasonable temps, so you're not stuck with a useless overcooked shaft tip.
  9. Your upper body seems to outrace your lower half. You do resemble DJ on the way back, but if you watch his move at the ball, he clears his hips so fast on the way down. His belt buckle is pointed down the target line almost 2ft before impact. As with most players, the main issue is posture and from the hips down. EE is almost always a culprit of "steering" the club, needing to feel your hands control the head into impact, rather than allowing them to release into the ball naturally. I EE as well, but have come to accept it as my distance and consistency is where I need it to be. Good luck, man
  10. I hit it further with that LA on SkyTrak, and on the course the results match up well most times. Low spin at that angle seems fine to me, not trying to be a contrarian. Flight scope optimizer software seems to agree too, but I was wondering if that calculation is wrong. Hmmm....
  11. Just get nail polish in that shade. Or, what works well in my trials, is pure white mixed with like 10-20% yellow or tan.
  12. Maltby component clubs are very good quality, and technology has come a long way in making clubs longer and easier to hit well. That being said, maybe play a bit with your current set and weigh your level of commitment back into the game. If you think there's going to be renewed interest or love for the game, maybe go for new equipment then. I would say you cannot go wrong with Maltby clubs, and these appear to suit your hcp. Also, I wouldn't worry about getting fitted until you develop some kind of repeatable swing. Not that you don't currently swing well enough, but rather, you'
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