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  1. I wouldn’t be to concern or OCD with what loft is stamped on the iron or utility iron but rather confirm with the launch monitor for a playable window on launch angle, carry, roll out, height and spin rates. Also see how the longer clubs (iron, crossover, hybrid and wood) the ball flight personally fits your eye or game. For example, my set 3 iron is difficult to launch off the deck but the distance and gapping is consistent from the 4 iron when teed up. Since you hit the 5 iron so well, the G410 crossover would fit in nicely. I use to play the i210 (3-PW) iron and but still have m
  2. 2020 was my best year with fairway woods and long irons, which was my goal. The biggest thing I learned was yardage gapping and consistency. My 13.5* strong 3 wood went too far which actually hurt me by driving thru the fairway dog legs and running thru the greens on par 5s. Ended up with a 16* 4 wood because of the versatility and consistency. I permanently decided on my 17* UDI over my set two iron. More ball speed and forgiveness is a clincher for me. I was OCD that my 4 wood and UDI were only 1* apart but the gapping was correct and scoring showed as wel
  3. My set 3 iron is lofted at 20*, which is the strongest loft I can get away with for playability off the deck. Secondly, the precision is very important to me. I hit it to a certain yardage and gaps well off my 4 iron. Last thing I want is an extra 15 yard jumper from a UDI on a par 3. I permanently swapped my 17* 2 set iron for the Ping G410 Crossover 17*. More ball speed , forgiveness and playability is a no brainer. I’m not concerned of the odd nuked ball in this case since my goal is to chase the ball down there.
  4. Two iron stinger; finds the fairway quickly and rolls out there. The wind has little effect on the line as well.
  5. I like the 919 based on looks and forgiveness. I’m not a fan of plastic badges which is introduced on the 921. I owned the 900 and it was the most compact size and also thinner sole; hence less forgiving.
  6. Been there done that. My personal experience is if you are going with a driving iron, go with the lowest loft you can get away with it off the tee and deck. My UDI happens to be 17*. The versatility equates to better scoring. As for 3 wood after the driver, I have experimented with 12.5, 13.5, 15 and 16 degrees. I ended with preferring a 16* despite being 1* apart from my driving iron, but the versatility and yardage gapping worked out well. In conclusion, you’re going to have to hit the simulators to round out the long end to fit your game.
  7. The big pluses are being able to hit the utility iron off the deck, fairway bunker, touchy fairway (ball below you’re feet or downhill lies) lies and decently out of the rough consistently; where as my blade 2 iron was not even an option on advancing the ball. It’s the difference in playing a long par 4 in 2 shots vs 3 shots in my game. Secondly and worst, later in the round or playing a double header when I am fatigued and need a solid tee shot into a dog leg becomes too daunting. A slight mishit with a utility off the tee isn’t punishing.
  8. 3 (20*) iron mb is my true longest iron now after swapping my 2 (18*) mb for a 17* driving iron; more versatile. The 3 is great for tee shots where I need tight dispersion or a certain yardage.
  9. My experience with blades is the front to back dispersion pattern is tighter, therefore eliminating the long miss. For example, if I’m looking at a 165 yardage, that’s the farthest I want the ball to go. Some of the distance irons, can easily jump an unexpected 10 yards which equates the ball rolling to to the back or worst; thru the green which is next to impossible to get up and down for par. Secondly, I do get more spin with blades so the ball does stops quicker as well.
  10. I’ve had good success with the Srixon utilities in the past but settled on my set 3 (20*/195) and 4 (23*/185) irons. I put emphasis on par 3 tee shots, yardage gapping and tighter shot dispersion pattern. I’ve really improved my par 3 play this year and hence the long irons stay in the bag. I can see somebody wanting more versatility, height and forgiveness in a utility or hybrid. Whatever works best for you.
  11. I carry 6* of bounce in my LW and 12* in my SW, for all the course conditions as mentioned above. What I like about going back to a low bounce LW is that I can open the face as much as I want to add effective bounce.
  12. I sold my 13.5* Callaway Epic SZ, it just went too far at times that I needed more separation from the driver. The worst is hitting less than driver off the tee deliberately and hitting it thru the fairway of a dog leg or reaching a fairway bunker. I went back to my 16* 4 wood Callaway Steelhead. Not as long obviously but I consistently hit the yardage I am looking for.
  13. I find the ZC spin more and launch lower on partial shots. Agree with drv that they feel better. Definitely looks better. Fairly forgiving. Very consistent performance. No doubt an improvement or upgrade to the RTX4. Some minor notes: 1. The LW and SW plays to a lower bounce stated. Not sure it’s because of the sole design/width or sharper leading edge? I normally play 10* of bounce in my SW and upgraded to the 54-12 full sole SW. I was worried about blading the ball but haven’t done it once in play or practice. I just like the fact that I can throw the boun
  14. I agree about not being too glued on the lofts but if you have time, find out how far you hit those actual long clubs. It’s important to confirm your carry, roll out and height. I went thru an updated fitting and currently gaming: 1. Callaway Steelhead 4+ wood at 16*. goes higher, super easy to hit off the deck, 10-15 yards further than my driving iron despite only being 1* stronger. Obviously the wood head design and shaft has something to do about it. 2. Ping G410 Crossover at 17* > I was coming in thinking I would have to weaken this club a degree or two but my
  15. Ping Redwood. Had it since it’s debut. Custom 36” length. Too many warm memories to ever to leave. Still making putts to this day.
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