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joostin

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  1. "Not sure why it doesn't feel right, it's D3..." Just having some fun with the counterbalancing topic complete with a meme. Look, to each his/her own - if it works for you, do what you gotta do... get the ball to the hole with your preffered tools and methods. But the swingweight scale was not designed for hitting a swingweight number by manipulating grip weight. You can read Robert Adams' scale patent and the 10,000+ posts by @Stuart_G. Here's a normal 6 iron @ 437.5g total weight at D3, and a 100 lb (45+ kg) 6 iron also at D3 using the calculator. Same shaft LOL - it's a little bent, but it's still the desired D3! And yes, you can manipulate a telephone pole to be D3. Because the fulcrum is not at the butt, the scale allows you to counterbalance however you want, though it wasn't intended to. An MOI machine on the other hand has a fulcrum at the butt, so it doesn't work the same (MOI will increase with a heavier grip). Changes to head, shaft, grip, length... Lead tape by feel and performance.
  2. The one time you need it is the one time you don't have it... never fails! Bigger loft progressions in the middle can definitely work, keeping the scoring clubs and tee clubs.
  3. "When I was your age, I used to walk to school, uphill..."
  4. I find myself popping a wheelie sometimes when pushing, front wheel off the ground, maybe for the same comfort as I can't adjust my handle height. Playing as a kid with my dad we'd usually rent the crap pull carts at the course, rusty 2 wheel ones, so that's probably why I default to pulling with a push cart. Carried all 14 for years until I tried a push cart and preferred it.
  5. I saw posts saying pushing carts uphill sucks... it does. Figured I'd make a thread for this. IMO: Carrying is probably easiest here, but if using a push cart (non motorized), pulling is easier uphill than pushing. You still have to lean forward uphill, but at least you don't have to hold/push anything with both your arms and shoulders at an awkward position. When pulling you can also use one arm and swing the other like normal, or to claw up the mountain or hold your beer. My take: - Steep Uphill = pull with cart behind - Slight Uphill = still pull - Flat = push or pull, or give a big push to let the cart roll by itself... when push cones to shove - Steep Downhill = cart in front, leaning back - Slight Downhill = cart in front, sometimes let cart coast down by itself (away from hazards and children, playing the fade or draw bias of the cart ) - Sidehill Lie = play the fade or draw again...... actually push so you can torque the handle to keep the cart from toppling over I'll still carry sometimes playing 9 or on a mostly par 3 course. Carrying you can walk across greens and all, and tap in putts with bag on back. But over 18 push/pull cart is easier on my back and legs.... Getting a cramp in the calves once in a while on a follow through is not fun (I know - hydrate, stretch, foam roll, calf work). Anyway, hope going uphill sucks less this way.
  6. Yes, currently my setup. See above thread
  7. Great idea if 3W doesn't get much use and 460cc driver at short length gives you confidence (moreso than a mini). Here's another thread:
  8. I know I'm not answering your cleaning/paint questions, but definitely test them head to head vs the Berthas before selling. Eye2s are one of the most iconic irons of all time for a reason! FWIW most on here seem to love the brown patina, but I love the shiny orange-y look of BeCu.. had a putter that I would Coke or polish with Scotch Brite to bring the shine back.
  9. It could be a physical dynamic thing or a sensitivity thing or both. Heavier weight in rear would dynamically close the clubface a little more as CG tries to align with the shaft axis. If you try the toe hang test below you could see a little difference rear vs forward, though it's not a huge shift in CG. It could also be that you just get along with the weighting forward. All assuming your strike is consistently around center. Sounds like you found something that works - milk it for as long as it works!
  10. Oh man I missed the three 8 irons post. Love the setup @A-A-RonCCC. If it works it works! - Anti OCD crew
  11. That's not so quirky! 7 brands, 2 drivers - older one is longer with fade, newer is a little shorter with draw - 5W, different set 3 iron as DI, 4 utility or hybrid, 5 iron normally out of bag, players 6-PW, different set GW, GI wedges (CBX). And you don't see many Cure putters around. Waiting for challengers to bring the quirk....
  12. Agreed until the last sentences! I've hurt my back on deads too because of not keeping the core tight enough, but RDLs (slightly bent legs) are awesome for engaging hamstrings and glutes, and actually for preventing back injury because it involves the whole posterior chain... Just gotta start light and brace the core. Pushing abs against a belt is a great queue for this, and is part of the lift (belt doesn't help without bracing against it.. same core bracing is needed when lifting without a belt), while keeping the back straight of course.
  13. OP gotta just get the workouts in even begrudgingly! Can't really compare to others though, just yourself. Btw your numbers are pretty good. I like to think training - mixing from heavy lifts to lighter speed work to plyometrics, while maintaining full mobility - always helps esp. getting older (40 myself topping 120 mph on radar). Injury prevention is one thing, probably the main thing. Whether you're firing more fast twitch muscles or not is another. I believe you do when training includes heavy stuff and fast stuff, ie. don't just lift slow and jog slow.... Part of training is just swinging fast. The other thing is mentally boosting confidence because you know you're in better shape and you think you can swing faster. This is what kids and younger golfers can have in spades - the mindset that they can just swing faster or throw their bodies around without hurting themselves. Playing and jumping as kids, they're always "training" to be explosive with whatever muscles they got!
  14. Agreed on the choke-up. If you've seen my latest swingweight Excel calculator it tells you what swingweight you're at by how much you choke up. Though if you're changing shafts/heads that are weighted differently, just go by feel and performance rather than trying to hit a specific D0, as D0 on one club can feel different than D0 on another due to total weight, shaft/head properties, etc. Please just don't go down the road of heavier grips for the sake of swingweight. Swingweight was not meant for that. If you go down the road of reducing head weight, Howard has posted how much to drill down the hosel. Heck Tiger, Schwartzel, and others drill into the flanges of their clubs at home sometimes.
  15. As someone who spent a long time in an apartment without much space or a workbench, and developed some barebones building skills for my own clubs and some family, here's the deal: Buy real club building equipment when you want to make life easier. Otherwise true economy can be done as below without heads ever coming loose and tight specs if you have the time, meticulousness, and enough handiness. Even with a bigger space and garage now but no need to build many clubs, I still go pretty barebones because of habit. - Measuring: Gram scale (to 0.1g), 48" ruler (with mm), DIY fixture for ruler at 60°, masking tape, knife/scissor edge, fine point Sharpie, online or Excel swingweight calculator, calipers are helpful but not needed.. no tape measure eyeball technique if you want precision. - Grips: Grip saving tool, solvent, double sided tape, hook blade, heat gun for tape removal, DIY grip scraper if tape gets stuck in grip . No vice needed, just elbow grease, newspaper on ground, alcohol, paper towel, gloves, no air compressor needed. We're talking barebones here! - Ferrules: Blade, acetone, industrial paper towel, no sanding belt needed, little pick set to scuff up inside if ferrule is a little loose, hot water if a little tight. For correct sizing this is where calipers help. - Steel shafts: Pipe cutter, old shaft to support wall when cutting, easy on pressure to prolong wheel life, flat file, oven flame, yup!, don't even need a torch (as long as you have a gas oven of course, I've even protected heads that had elastomer with a wet rag tied around, successfully haha)... oven mitt, work gloves. Again, barebones here, not building for customers! Epoxy, stick - Graphite shafts: Rotary tool (don't need Dremel brand... Harbor Freight!) with cutoff wheels, or hand saw with rod saw blade and masking tape, sand paper to prep tip. If you don't have a shaft puller, DIY one, or just take it to a shop, or cut it off and drill it out with a cordless drill and drill bit set. I've pulled a few in the past with a vice, rubber shaft clamp, heat gun, and adjustable wrench as a pry bar (small pry, adjust, repeat) but wouldn't trust it if not a straight pull. Otherwise "value" puller and torch. - Heads: Set of small round and half round files, sand paper, and alcohol to clean out hosel, beer or soda can and little precision scissors or X-acto knife to make shims, good ol' roll of lead tape Hireko, Monark, other is fine, but used route on ebay/other is my preference. No workbench, no vice, no torch, no SW scale, just resourcefulness, being detailed, and elbow grease... That's economy my friends!
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