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joostin

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  1. Adding to what @NRJyzr posted. So of course strike location is king, and that would outweigh small "tech" advances. Maybe one head just works out better than others for you. Any tech advances would be increasing MOI by moving CG rearward (and lower if low spin is wanted), better speed retention across the face through face flexibility and body rigidity, and aerodynamics. So the thinner and lighter the crowns, the more rearward and low the weights, the better they say the face flexes around the sweet spot, and the more efficient they say the turbulators are through the
  2. IMO, though I don't play it, 4W 7W 4H may be the most versatile, easiest to hit, best gapping top setup. I split the difference right now with a 5W (and 4H) that's not going anywhere because of versatility. It can adjust to 4W or 7W loft territory. Easy to get up, long enough off tee or different lies, easy to work high, low, left, right, whatever. 3W is like a 2nd driver for me, so I'm just trying a 2nd driver - D1, D2, 5W. To the OP distance question: I don't need a FW off the turf all that often, but even swinging my 13.5° 3W at 110 mph off the turf is hit or mis
  3. I just read through Howard's thread that's locked now, and to respect his wish to not get PMs felt inclined to post something. Regardless of anyone's thoughts on the matter of intellectual property and legal ramifications, no one can deny that there's a ton of golf tech knowledge on WRX. A lot of that is because of Howard. In my short time here it's pretty clear who the top dogs are. So to them, to other middling guys like me, and to first time posters (none of whom I know personally at all) posting some kind of valuable info, and especially to @Howard_Jones ... Thank you for yo
  4. Fair enough sir. We would really need uncut shaft balance point data. IIRC someone (Howard, Wishon?) had an Excel database of shafts posted in the past with BPs I believe measuring from the tip side. I'm curious to see how BP changes with something like a Diamana D+ 60 vs 70 vs 80, or a DG S300 vs same length DG 120 S300. I remember seeing that the lighter DG SL was designed to maintain swingweight if coming from the traditional DG. Anyway my intent was to visually show the breakdown of these things that affect swingweight. Whatever can be adjusted can be calculated
  5. Balance Point distance of the ferrule itself from the butt of the club if it was assembled together. It's so light you can just eyeball where you think the ferrule's BP is. See 2nd page of this thread where I have pics of an actual club, pointing to BPs of each individual component, and entered them in the Excel sheet: If you can you just dry fit everything and find the overall BP of the assembled club, that would be best because you would only have to measure one BP. A physical scale is best / easiest / quickest, but if you can't get one I'd suggest finding a 4 ft ruler wi
  6. Testing the 5th and last rule of thumb: * 4* flatter lie or more up right lie = increase or decrease 1 swing weight point This was the most difficult to test because it involves the clubhead COG shifting with lie adjustments. The following all play a role to determine this: the "center" point of bend for a clubhead; the "center" point of adjustment on an adapter; and the location of the head's COG. In this case swingweight only cares how far the head's COG moves in relation to the butt of the shaft and fulcrum point (the direction parallel to the shaft only). Here are meas
  7. Testing the 4th rule of thumb: * 9 gr shaft weight differences = 1 swing weight point Using the components tab on the spreadsheet with hypothetical component weights (typical 200g driver head, 263g 6 iron head, 300g lob wedge head...), and only changing the shaft weight by 9 grams with the same balance point, as shown for each club: - Driver changed 2.0 SWP - 6 iron changed 0.8 SWP - Lob wedge changed 0.5 SWP Clearly it's a rough guideline, probably best for irons only.
  8. How about just bending the P7TW 3 iron a little weak and skip the 4i? As a bargain older club kind of guy I would personally try to find these in good condition and bend as needed. These could fit your bill for me . All should have relatively low VCOGs, not too much offset, thinnish soles, decent blade lengths: MP-29 3i to go vintage Tiger Adams MB2 3i (new on bay) Mizuno MP-54 3i Corbra S3 Pro 3i (new on bay) Bridgestone J40 DPC 3i Maxfli Revolution Black Dot 3i Nike VR Pro Combo 3i (new on bay) However.... as mentioned in
  9. More testing on the SW calculator - for the first and third rules of thumb: *1/2" = 3 SWP I'm just using calcs for choking up 1/2" for driver, 6 iron, and lob wedge: - Driver changed 3.4 SWP - 6 iron changed 4.3 SWP - Lob wedge changed 4.9 SWP - All are more than the 3 SWP assumed. Choking up is different though than cutting or extending because you will lose or add weight and shift balance point, but still a 1/2" change on different clubs will not change SWP by exactly the same increment. *5g grip = 1 SWP Assuming 5 gram lighter grip
  10. The 2nd rule of thumb in this thread is the 2g to 1 swingweight point which works pretty well in real life. Just testing some actual numbers with my Excel calculator on 3 clubs just to see - Driver, 6 iron, and 60° wedge. Here are the results for 2g of lead tape placed around the middle of each club head like this (and bottom center of the driver head). The red highlighted lines are "modifying" each club with 2g centered at the measured distance from the butt of the club (approx. 37.7" on the 6 iron above). - Driver increased 1.3 SWP - 6 iron increased
  11. Lol, well, how do you like them apples?!
  12. Yes it will, though I believe draw bias or not will be a person to person thing. If you are sensitive to weight location to the hosel (lower or higher MOI around the hosel, lower or higher C-dim) as a feel, sure it can affect your closure. It may be more of a feel thing that affects face closure rate. But draw bias due to gear effect on an iron would be minimal at best especially on a blade. Not sure if you saw this thread on effects of placing lead tape at different locations and tip weight: To Scott Piercy and that tape job.... we bow to you!
  13. The type of steel will affect the feel more than the process of forging or casting. It's just that certain types are more commonly used or are more friendly for each process. You can cast "soft" 1020 steel. You can also forge "hard" stainless steel. A one-piece forging process is limited to the designs that can be done. Casting can open the door to more design options that won't be possible to forging. Multi-piece construction can open the door even more. In this case more forgiveness means getting MOI as high as possible, meaning you have to move mass away from th
  14. Personally I like leaving length, then choking up. Midsize grips still feel ok, not too narrow, when choking about an inch for me. So I'll say 45". You can always cut shorter. It beats extending if you felt it was too short or thought you were missing out on length IMO.
  15. A good experiment nonetheless! I just cut potential Driver 2 to 44.5", about 3/4" shorter than Driver 1... excited to try this "draw/control driver" . Went a little shorter for strike consistency, I hope, yet still "normal" driver length and loft (9.5°). A nice side effect is that without headcovers on, the 2 drivers at different lengths don't bang on either face lol.
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