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  1. Sure that's fine but now my ticket price goes from $150 to $200 or maybe more. People who think this comes at absolutely zero expense to the fans and/or consumers have their heads buried somewhere quite dark and smelly. Longer hitters gain an even bigger advantage over short hitters under bifurcation, and therefore even more pressure and emphasis will get placed on gaining distance... This would literally do the exact opposite of what they think.
  2. If a full scale bifurcation of equipment passes, this is going to only make golf more prohibitive to play. The extra costs for Titleist to make multiple different "bifurcation balls" for the tour and other tourneys, or Taylormade making specialized woods that hit the ball less far, will be passed on to end consumers. As if paying $50+ for a box of ProV wasnt already nuts, get ready to pay more $60 or even $70 a dozen. Think your big stick that cost $500 was a lot??? It's going to cost $750 with a stock shaft if OEMs need a completely separate line of production just for elites and others who a
  3. I'll be sticking with Roshe & React 2's this year it looks like. My ZITs make weird squeaky noises while walking and I've worn out my Tour Prems and I don't feel like paying $120+ for a 2 year old shoe. Pretty sure the Roshe were insanely popular and well received... Why not just make a small tweak to that shoe and come out with a new version??? I'd buy every color.
  4. You might want to double check but I think moving the loft down 2, opens the face 4. With a ventus black in there, you should be able to hit a cut no problem.
  5. I'd start with it built to 43'', tipped 1/2'' and choke up a little bit. If it feels good and performs well, butt cut to 42.5'' and grip as normal. If it feels soft but you're otherwise happy, pull the adapter, tip another 1/2'' and then grip as normal. The ventus 7x black is pretty beast though and unless you really move the ball, I don't think you'd need a full 1'' tip. I think Fuji recommends no tipping for driver and 3w, and then 1/2'' for 5w. The tip on these shafts are some of the stiffest out there. I can also tell you from experience that the SIM Ti turned to 17
  6. "Small" update to WITB for 2021: As seen, about all my clubs have changed since early 2020, except the hybrid. I'm still figuring out the top end of the bag... The 2 fairway woods are likely to go, and the hybrid is in jeopardy, too. Driver: SIM Max 9, @ 11, 4g of lead tape on the toe. Ventus Black 6x 45'' 3w: Cobra Big 3 Tour. Accra FX 2.0 370 M5 43'' 5w: Cobra SZ. Accra FX 2.0 380 M5, 42.75'' (needs to get cut down) 4h: 818H1 23. Ventus Blue HB 10x 5i: Cobra Forged Tec 6i, 1 weak, 1* flat, +1/2''. X100 AMT White Onyx 6-
  7. Did you get stainless with medium milling? That's what mine is and I find it feels medium to medium firm. I like it though because feedback is great. Too soft and I can't start to lose where on the face I'm hitting the ball.
  8. If anybody ends up with a slant neck from him, post it up!! That's likely my next purchase.
  9. If my old i210 4i felt better and had just a touch less offset, I'd have stuck with it because it did launch pretty high. I'm trying to find a matching Forged Tec Black iron to complete the set but because I'm a dumb ol lefty... it's been a tough go. The u500 is pretty interesting and so is PXG. P790 was the default in the back of my mind but I know a lot of different clubs had some out since the OGs hit the shelves. I'll do some looking around... thanks guys.
  10. In my case, "best" is an iron that still looks fairly compact at address, has some forgiveness, produces a lot of ball speed and launches high. In your opinion, what's the best long iron made in the past few years? Could be from an iron set or even be a utility. It just needs to be the best mix of looks, launch and speed. Edit: I should also note I am left handed, so a lot of these awesome choices aren't available for me.
  11. I liked watching them chip with 9i's from off the green at Pebble. Those greens looked like they were rolling at most a 6 or 7. Imagine now doing that.. you'd never stop the ball.
  12. I don't agree. If you wanted to learn how to ride a motorcycle, what's going to be the easier/better path to being a safe rider (1) a slower/less aggresive junkie cruiser with 20hp or (2) a 1000cc 100hp sport bike that gets a light front end quicker than you can say "oh no"? Sure, us humans can adapt and make many things work, but that doesn't mean it's optimal or correct. but hey! I understand what you're saying and where you come from, I just don't think handing an unskilled golfer blades and expect them to become better just because it's a slightly harder club to hit
  13. Yeah and I'm guessing like .1% of players actually know how to correctly alter their swing in a way to re-center their strike, because it means they need to know the actual correct root cause of their swing faults in the first place. Besides, you don't need a MB to get feedback. There's plenty of player CB's that offer excellent "strike detection" capabilities while providing at least a little bit of forgiveness on your slight miss-hits. Furthermore: [quote]What percent of PGA Tour players use blades? 35 percent
  14. Never got the whole "blades make you swing better/force you to hit the ball better " mantra. If I'm a 16yo new driver & drive a Honda Civic, does switching to a Z06 Corvette magically make me better? Or, if I'm a terrible ice skater and use budget skates, does switching to the latest $900 stiff as a board skate suddenly give me ability that I didn't have before?? Playing blades might make a good ball striker strike the ball better, but it's isn't going to turn a weekend hack into a scratch player unless they do significant swing work.
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