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Everything posted by mxskier

  1. Have the VA Slay in 75 stiff in my fairway woods and 85 stiff in hybrid. LOVE the shafts. Considering just getting the Slay for my driver too, but a swing speed chart I saw (and emails to the founder of the company) lead me toward X flex in the driver. The swing speed chart I saw and posted below said 75S is perfect for SS of 100mph or so, which is what my 3W is. But the recommended SS for 65S is 90-105, whereas the 65X may be better for 100-115. Since my driver is about 108 or so, I figure I'd just go the X? Or what effect does tipping have on the flex of the shaft? I
  2. they all have twist face. its called roll and bulge. taylormade just named it, but every driver has that, FYI.
  3. So you've been fit for iron shafts. Then a few years go by. You swing around the same speed, but start to look around the landscape. Your shafts are still available, no reason really to change, but new things can be "interesting." Do you consider changing iron shafts? Or is it more once you've found one, you stick with it?
  4. Bernhard is playing clubs from 10 years ago. Hideki has like 4 different versions of the same shaft to test each week. Huge variation - but they're all looking for a bit more distance or bit more control. They're looking for any advantage equipment can give.
  5. Been gaming the Slay in my Fairway woods and hybrids for the past few years - I LOVE the shaft. I haven't been re-fit in a while but for me they are super easy to elevate and find center every time. I have the Drago in my driver for a bit less spin. Their shafts just feel better than the standard Project X or Aldila or whatever else you find with your usual pairings of shafts, for me. They keep that smoothness with stability that is just great.
  6. Thanks all. I play TP5. When I’m at sea level or switch trackman to sea level the descent angle is fine (48 w/ 7i, 48 with 6, even 44 with 4 which I put into play), and the gaps are smoother too. It’s really just an altitude thing, and I think spin more might be the trick? or should I be looking somewhere else entirely? I already swapped the 4h out for a 4i which has been a revelation on 230y par 3s.
  7. Ok.. before we go down some weird rabbit hole - I play Oban CT 115g stiff mid-launch mid-spin shaft with a 6i SS of 90mph, get 134mph ball speed with 5i, 128-130 with 6i, 121-124mph with 7 iron. I carry 190 with 7i, 203 with 6, 215 with 5, and jump to a 4h (225-230 carry, 139mph ball speed) because at that length I drop below 40* land angle (5i is around 41*). I have more than enough speed to game any iron I want, in reality. Im not a super x-flex whatever, but with that ball speed, I should be just fine. As noted, flatter trajectory = more rollout, but that at some poi
  8. Currently playing off around 3-4, though thats entirely dependent on scrambling and not blowing out on driver (functional range is 1-6) I live at altitude and spin is my friend - everyones friend - when it comes to keeping the ball in the air and controlling distances. I have the PXG 0311T which are spectacular - they feel amazing, gap pretty well, have good forgiveness, and look great at address. Only thing is that they don't spin the most, I'm talking 5600rpm with a 7i, 8000rpm with a full PW. This is problematic as the longer irons all start to clump together with spin, thus the
  9. could use some more info, what was the height? ball speed? what were the numbers with other lofts? at first look, smash factor of 1.42 is a bit low (that's more like 4i smash factor on PGA Tour), and with 103 head speed, I'd expect 150 ball speed or s, so 240 carry feels a bit low for that.
  10. M grind. square face works for hard/wet sand. can open the face for medium/slightly fluffier sand. for really fluffy sand you'll need awesome technique or more bounce.
  11. watch the tour, those big bombers (not stupid Bryson) are all around 110-120. as long as its not ballooning and is landing at 35* or so, to hit it that far, you're going to have to hit it at a certain height. physics of ballistics trajectories.
  12. you hit the ball with that kind of speed, that average dispersion, those launch characteristics, and you're an 18? how bad is your putting? dude
  13. nothing wrong with my current woods - and the rails really are awesome - though the clubs do tend to sit a touch closed, which is rarely a problem. but I'm curious about v-steel and the sim2 FW to match the driver, and wonder how legit the v-steel is. and does it really work well compared to the cobra baffler rails? and since I wouldn't want to break down my current clubs to re-use the shafts, each club would be pretty pricey...
  14. I'm starting season 4 with my current 3W/5W. I just got a new driver (still finalizing shaft). I hit my current 3W and 5W pretty well, and they are great off the tee, but wouldn't mind perhaps a touch more forgiveness in the 3W with a slightly larger head (current F8+ is 149cc). Been eyeing the SIM2 fairway (to match the driver), and sort of have the itch to just get the matching 3W and 5W to go with the driver. What makes you decide to buy a new fairway wood?
  15. Got it. Then buy the 4i when you buy the set, but don't play it. Get a 21-22* hybrid just play a 17-19* 4/5 wood. keep it at 13 clubs for now. then as you get better figure out the more specific gapping at the top. don't overthink it now.
  16. No matter what anyone here says, unless they have crazy dynamic loft at the hit position or some weird swing mechanics, a 15/16* fairway wood will go higher and likely farther than a 16* hybrid. Consider, if the hybrid went as far, all the PGA tour players would be using it for more length control. If you're 6'8 and your a fair to better stick (at least <12 hdcp), and are fit into x flex, and live at sea level, go with 4i. Unless you have some ridiculous deloft at impact or some bad mechanics where finding the face is impossible, or need help with height in long irons, (like I d
  17. keep the 3W at 16.5. if you intend to keep the 5W at 18 in play, and drop the 4i entirely, get a 22-23* hybrid. if you intend to drop the 5W and keep the 4i in play at 23*, get a 19-20* hybrid. or be like me and own a 5W at 19, 3H at 19, 4H at 22, and 4i at 22.5 and be super indecisive
  18. Driver - is a weapon when used well, get one. See 2016 M2, Ping G30, Callaway XR16 - all should be affordable 5W - learn to hit fairway woods, has loft for forgiveness, isn't super long length. - Same company as driver 4H - next longest club, the gaps will be close to 5W once you learn to swing a bit, and you'll find its super useful. you will love this club. - Get a Ping G30 here. will be money for years and is affordable 5i-AW - something like Ping G, Titleist AP1, Callaway XR, would be great from 716 or 718 as they will last you a long time. Really is worth getting a few club
  19. Yea honestly just go by lofts, its probably easiest. I don't know what's at the top of your bag with regard to 3W/5W lofts, etc, but if your new 5i is 26*, and guessing 6* is 29-30, then I would say find a 4H that's around 22-23. 21 might give you a few extra yards and might gap too closely to your I'm assuming 18-19.
  20. I actually go opposite for yardage and hybrid gapping. A well struck 5i (25*) for me is about 134mph ball speed with carry of 215 off the deck and will have some roll. A well struck 4H (22*) for me is up between 137-140mph ball speed and 225-230 carry and faster stopping power. My approach is that, at this distance, I want just somewhat even spacing between my hybrid and my next longest club, not perfect 12-15 yard gaps between irons/hybrids. Keep the close gapping in the scoring range, and be sure to have your gaps generally covered as evenly and smoothly a
  21. I saw that earlier on the livestream and was like "oooooh that's nice."
  22. I think there are definitely some benefits to fitting and some over promises. I've done a few fittings, only 1 for iron shafts, but I've done the Mizuno shaft optimizer a few times too. It always spits out a ~115g shaft around stiff/x-stiff. I tried the Oban's at my fitting and they just felt super smooth so I stuck with them. For driver or longer clubs I think it could make more of a difference. Longer club, higher swing speed, and more significant differences in shaft profiles and feels to deliver —your— best club dynamics.
  23. Oh man I want these so badly.. someone buy them before I make a bad financial decision
  24. I had been playing 50/54/60 for a long time off a 46* PW. This year I went to the set gap wedge at 51* since I really never swing that any less than 105 yards (my old 50 would either be 140 max, 125 stock, 105 smooth 3/4, and 105 3/4 back foot long pitch). So to take the forgiveness for the longer shot, and then went to 56/60. you'll have a gap at 54-60, but ask yourself where you feel comfortable having a gap and put that gap there.
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