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  1. Nobody has “more consistent strikes” because they play 54-58 or 56-60. What does happen is different shafts and grinds play differently. The loft is the least important factor here. for example, if you like one wedge around the green 54 allows you a “long shot” wedge like a F grind or an older iron set wedge. 54-F and PM grind is a classic combo for someone who likes one wedge greenside and one wedge from outside 30 yards. we need to know how you approach your wedge play, specifically if you double up wedges green side or if you are looking for distance in one and gree
  2. We don't have to guess. Shotlink tells us what they do. Making it MUCH easier and only looking at 125-150 (150 is the max, the 150-175 they are just below half GIR. The average distance from the hole is 19' 6" and the average green on tour is around 50'^2. If we assume they have perfect alignment to the middle of the green (they do not, they are worse than this) they hit about 6.4/10 from between 125 and 150. Much worse if you move the pin out of the dead center (which makes the math much harder) or try to isolate only 150. its probably around half. pros hit, on average, 12 g
  3. you think a tour pro is 8/10 or 9/10 from the fairway at 220?!!? its not even close. They’re not even that good from 150. golfers remember great shots and forget average shots. You seem like a good guy and you make good, interesting posts. That said, there is no way in hell you “often hit the green with a 4 iron with a good swing.” also, don’t pick clubs based on sample sizes of 10 swings on the range.
  4. a driver actually can help with this because they are both face mistakes (a push is a draw with face open to the path and a snap is a draw with the face closed to the path). The problem is no one driver can address both. You’d want a slightly closed face to fix the push and a slightly open face to fix the snap. a two way miss dependent on face ROC can only be fixed by the swing and specifically the timing of the release. ”The Release” by Jim Hardy is the best book on earth for fixing the push/snap or slice/pull two-way misses IMO. a one way miss can be helpe
  5. 4 iron pros: looks cool. 4 iron cons: misses all the time, poor swings add strokes instead of just missing the green 4 hybrid pros: hits it in the green complex basically every time 4 hybrid cons: doesn’t look as cool
  6. Generally, I don't like the answer of "if it works for you, it works" but it fits 100% here. The purpose of an iron shaft is generally feel and launch. There really isn't a "should" there and different tracks/games require different shafts. I play x100 shafts, but it isn't because I have a huge swing speed, its because I cup my wrist just after impact Webb Simpson style and this produces a super-high ball flight. I've always had a sky-high ball flight and the x100 brings it down to where it is manageable. If I played the shafts I'm "supposed" to play (probably something like a
  7. At the risk of an off-topic argument, this is (IMO) why a lot of amateurs struggle, especially under pressure. You should know the distance to all the hazards off the tee and be hitting your driver a specific distance. If the trouble starts on the right at 245, its usually pretty dumb to try to hit it your normal 260 but have half the fairway. Just pick a club (or swing) that comes up short. Driver should never just be hit "as far as possible" unless the hole is insanely wide open and long. You want a club to go a specific distance on a specific shot. 155 from fairw
  8. In the G30 line Ping made .355 hybrid shafts called TFC419-H shafts. I used one to shaft a Bridgestone 3 iron that worked great. They are very cheap on eBay if you can find one and typically play long enough. They are very low launch in the X flex, although I'm not sure if it is low spin. My swing speed is lower (around 111) but I used a Stiff (not an X) and loved it, and it was only like $14. I haven't found many other really good .355 hybrid-like shafts.
  9. 1. Hitting a straight shot is much more difficult than hitting a curving shot. You are absolutely trying to work the ball (and in the most difficult manner possible) by aiming straight. All "working the ball" means is how much sidespin versus backspin versus ball-speed you impact given a certain swing velocity. Hitting it straight requires 0.0 sidespin. That's incredibly hard, much harder than draw/hook spin or cut/slice spin. The idea that, as a "weaker" player at 14, you should avoid working the ball is nuts. It would be much easier for you to pick a shot shape and hit it.
  10. So forgot to order the epoxy to go with my new shafts, want to shaft myself. Is there any acceptable epoxy that can be purchased at Loewe's or Home Depot for golf clubs, or just suck it up and wait for the Golf Works package to ground ship here? Thanks for any advice. I searched past threads but couldn't find any rock-solid recommendations as to brands, just as to specs.
  11. The only iron better than a j40 is a j40 DPC. Re-shaft and bag 'em. Keep them secret. Keep them safe.
  12. Given that your post says the Jetspeed was a great driver for you, I'm going to go out on a limb and say get a Jetspeed. Oh wait I mean Titleist TS2. No G410. No SIM. No, Cobra Xtreme. No, wait, get a garbage pan lid shafted with a piece of concrete rebar (<- unreal anti-hook driver).
  13. I've hit a 514 yard drive before. For those in New Orleans (or who know the course) it was #9 at Chateau. I pushed it right about 20 yards. It hit a street, bounced several dozen times up the street ala tin cup, then hit a curb and riccochet'd up near the green of the par 5. And yes, I stubbed a chip and missed a 3 footer and made 5. I had the head pro come out and write the yardage on and sign the ball. I keep it in my office. People are pretty impressed until I tell the story.
  14. When someone asks "drive" I hear "tee shot" not literal "driver". For example, holes 8 and 16 at my club. I don't hit driver because I'm not tight enough with it on those short par 4s, sometimes hitting as high as 5 hybrid. I count that in my average if someone asks for my average drive because if I was better I wouldn't have to gear down like that.
  15. I play with a 5 hybrid (G30). Its been an amazing change for me, and I'd recommend it to anyone. I also own a G30 6 hybrid but that was a bridge too far. My 26* x100 j40 and my 26* +1" G30 light graphite hybrid gap about 12 yards, so I play both and cut the lob wedge which I find zero use for. I think this may be true for a lot of players - that their 5 iron and 5 hybrid gap nicely even at the same loft.
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