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Everything posted by trav_158

  1. Awesome. I thought so, but don’t have any experience with them so I wanted to double check before buying. thanks
  2. Does anyone know if the speeder 661 evo VII shaft in the PTC radspeed is a legit shaft or a made for? thanks
  3. negotiation is done through PM, you might have better luck there
  4. Did it wipe away like it was still wet? if this is the case, maybe the paint wasn't properly mixed up prior to application, or its a bad batch. you can use heat to expedite the drying process...Hair dryer, heat gun, quick licks with the torch... or did it harden up and the whole number flaked out? I would lean to surface prep if this is the case. If the base its really smooth and the numbers have a fairly big surface area, it may not adhere that well, could try sanding or abrading the base a bit.
  5. creative ideas, I like it. Thanks I think I will dry fit them up and see what is looking like. I'm sure I can make something work well enough. I have also never really tried anything in the lighter SW range, so I may do that here to see how I get along with it. that's not a bad idea, I have read a bunch of the detailed posts by Howard, and have never really given it a good go. this might be the time to try.
  6. fair enough, I may see how I can make out.
  7. if money weren't an issue I would...
  8. I do plan to tip weight as required, but 10 grams is the max I have seen on golfworks, where I buy my supplies from. so I was hoping to offset that a bit so i'd have some margin for fine tunings. understood. I'm not sure on the stock weight either, but I will use the "standard" as my ballpark target and go from there. thanks Adam, I'm usually in a standard +4 and an extra wrap, so a bit of extra weight in the grip. I have been swing weighting using the method I've seen mentioned on here by quite a few. swing weight with no grip to 9pt's heavier th
  9. Thanks for the replies guys. looks like I'm going to have to do a bit of experimenting here. I might start with +0.5" and see how I like the feel, or try some heavier shafts to get the total weight up where I want it. @Stuart_G I appreciate you breaking down the difference from stock head weights. These are just going to be a Sunday set, likely played as a half set for a bit of a change, so it will be fun to experiment here.
  10. Current head weights 4-238 5-242 6-249 7-256 8-265 9-269 P-277 so they’re pretty light. And a bit all over the place. I think they may have been sanded a bit too to get some dings etc out
  11. Working on a build with some MP 68 heads that have had the chrome removed, so they are obviously a little light. I was wondering if any of you shaft experts know of any shafts in the 115-125 gram range that have a lower balance point? I currently play modus 120 stiff in my gamers, and get along well with that profile thanks
  12. another good way it to measure the club then you know 100% its in all the way
  13. I take a wooden tee and give a tap on the ground to seat it a bit. Then I use masking tape to hold it in place by taping along the shaft, over the end of the head of the tee then back onto the shaft. It works most of the time, the tee holds up long enough to usually do a set of irons
  14. yes, if the clubs are a half in longer than standard they would be around d5 if they were originally d2. also depending if they were swing weighted with the grip on or off, and you have a lighter grip than intended, it could make it another point heavier. If they are all at d6, it was a pretty good build overall. I've seen some variance when getting clubs from OEM's
  15. Yes the forum is an awesome resource. I’m just saying usually when you go to re use the tip weights, the vent hole is clogged with epoxy, so you should drill it out to maintain that vent... I don’t like hoping the air vents out the hosel during assembly. The volume of air in the entire shaft is so much more than the hosel, the pressure would be much less (if not vented through the grip). These holes are put here for this purpose, so I just try to maintain them.
  16. The ones I’ve seen and used have a small hole directly in the center. But regardless of where, there has to be a vent so the air isn’t trapped in the hosel during assembly.
  17. That shaft looks like it has a tip weight in there as well, so make sure to remove it and clean the inside of the shaft of any epoxy. if you can re-use the tip weights, make sure to drill a hole though the center to allow for air passage.
  18. I'm not sure if you're talking about making sure the shaft and grip are "re-aligned" but you just go by eye. lots of clubs have a marking on the 6 o'clock part of the hosel which can be used as an alignment aid also, if the shafts have linear markings to line up. the most important part is getting the shaft and hosel cleaned up well so this doesn't happen again.
  19. I haven't hit the G410 max, but I found the G400 Max to be a bit draw biased when set up at the normal loft. had lots of success buying a higher loft and turning the loft down to open the face. pretty sure you can flatten your lie on the G410 as well to help with the left miss.
  20. I bought a used set of steelfiber 110cw shafts. the overall condition of the shafts was good, but compared to steel, using them was a bit of a pain. Because the hole in the end of the shaft is much smaller on the graphite shafts the epoxy was much higher into the shaft, and required a special drill bit(and attention to detail and patience) to remove the epoxy. I tried to assemble without removing the epoxy, but the air just couldn't escape and kept pushing the shaft out of the hosel. not exactly what you were asking, but some experience none the less
  21. I've been recommended to use fishing line to hold the shafts centered and fairly secured in the hosel to measure loft and lies prior to assembly. I found about 8lb test worked pretty well for me.
  22. I just got a set of used shafts with these stickers on them. There was a marker just under the grip that indicated 12 o'clock on the shaft. maybe you could roll the bottom of the grip back to expose it
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