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fatmouse

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  1. Hey guys, I have some stuff for sale. Low ballers and tire kickers are welcomed. Apologies if the pictures are out of order, I just dragged and dropped to upload. All prices are USPS priority within the lower 48. If you're from Canada, I do love Canada and all Canadians and can split shipping with you. If you buy all of it at once i'll give you a huge discount because that would be totally nuts Scotty Cameron Studio Design 5 - plays to 33", 68* lie, 2* loft. Head is 330 grams, grip is a superstroke ultra slim. Pictures show condition as well as non-OEM paintfill. Comes with original divot tool & headcover. Asking $600 Custom Unitized Nike Tiempo - found this on ebay and I have no idea what the backstory is, can only tell its torched and in pretty good shape for an old putter. Specs are 33" / 68* / 2*. Grip is an Iomic Absolute X. No idea on headweight. Does not come with headcover. Asking $160 Bettinardi 2018 Limited Release Tiki. This putter is in mint condition and comes with the original grip and headcover. The putter was shortened to 33" from the original 34". 68* loft / 2* lie, 340 grams. Asking $1400 Yamada Emperor II in Burner Copper finish. 33/68/2* loft, headweight is I think 365g. Very much on the fence about selling this one, so I'm throwing out a high price in hopes I have an excuse to keep it - $450 Cobra F9 driver in 9* loft, head only, with headcover. Not sure on head weight but I can throw it on the kitchen scale if you need it. Comes with an extra 14g weight in case you want to swing a sledge hammer or want to do a Rickie tour length build. Asking $200 Callway Epic Flash SubZero in 9* loft, head only, no headcover. Can also weigh this clubhead if you need the weight. Asking $200 Nike Vapor Fly Pro Limited Black driver, head only. Hard to price this driver because it's thinly traded and auctions I've seen are all over the place. Lets start at $550 but let me know what you're thinking Scotty Custom Shop headcover with some wear and creasing. I checked eBay to see what this was worth and it was all over the place, lets call it the average of the Sold/Completed ones in crappy condition - $150 Please text me for fastest response: 925 542 9796 Thanks, Matt
  2. I've played both the old 11.5 and 13.5 minis with multiple shaft options. Theres no need to tip it, stick it straight in as a driver shaft, it will play identically.
  3. Have played $ taper extensively multiple sets of irons, and have owned most iron shaft offerings on the market - modus 130 is nearly identical in terms of feel and trajectory
  4. easy to do, but depending on the equipment he has on hand, i'd nudge him towards shaving down the shaft as opposed to boring material out of the head. If you have a bench sander, shaving the shaft down is a much more forgiving process than boring a head out which will require some precision. Also - if he doesn't have any equipment and needs to buy, boring flutes cost around $30, while a cheap bench sander is like $50 and you can use it afterwards to sharpen your knives / lawn mower etc. Boring flute will mostly sit in a toolbox and go forever unused.
  5. To the OP - I use a California air tools 1 gal quiet air compressor, it's rated about 56 decibels and I can use it late at night without waking the kids or wife. I think it's about 200 dollars, it's one of my most frequently used tools in the garage. Make sure to bleed the air out when you're done so you don't rust the tank.
  6. Have gamed multiple iron sets with both of these shafts and the 130x is better for me. Very similar in feel and flight to the kbs money taper. If you like towering iron shots, 130 is the way to go.
  7. Ditto on the alcohol method, I've never had an issue if the surface is clean and free of oils. Also if the bottom of the club varies in texture, obviously go for the smoother parts
  8. You may also want to try gentle passes with a heat gun to see if you can get the top layer to blister off. Based on the chipping it doesn't look like they prepped the paint underneath and you may be able to break the bonds easily
  9. For what it's worth, I'm a 5 index and as a habitual iron buyer have gamed most shafts on the market. To me, steel fibers are one of the oddest offerings on the market. Flight of dynamic gold, the boardiness of project x, and an extremely light swing weight feel due to counterbalancing. Probably the worst fitting shaft I've ever played, outside my 7 year olds junior driver. I think they're probably niche and great in the right hands but I'd try to play a real round of golf with them if possible, I wouldn't risk a launch monitor purchase
  10. So just to add to this discussion, and this is only my personal experience - irons haven't mattered much. I have 16ish sets of irons ranging from very traditional blades (think 90s MacGregors) to cavity back and combo sets and am always buying different sets. I rotate through them frequently and score roughly the same regardless of what I'm playing. Bear in mind though each set is set to my specs (length, loft, lie, and shaft flex), which I think is the key variable. Head design is probably the least important factor, all dimensions considered
  11. Thanks for the comments guys - they were for sure reshafted, but it's the lighting that's making the hosel look brown. The yellow tone is very even across the club. Good call on the chrome, i'm gonna try emailing mizuno to see what they think
  12. Picture is attached - it's a set of Yoro MP-66s. The 4i-9i are all a brushed satin, but the pitching wedge is this honey/champagne finish. I did try using a de-oxidizer on it and it didn't remove the yellowing at all. Any hope of fixing the finish?
  13. Yep this is what I do and it works great
  14. Making snide remarks about someone's bag is like insulting someone's clothes, uncalled for in most social settings. Hopefully you aren't playing with him anymore. Play what you want and don't feel bad - clubs are different things to different people and it isn't always about scoring your lowest possible
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