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Righty to Lefty

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  1. This is incorrect....it is more difficult to tilt the spin axis of the ball as loft is added thus path has less effect than it already did which was about a 15% influence. The ball always starts where the face is pointed and there is no scenario where path has a bigger influence than the club face does on start direction.
  2. I am not buying that there is a such thing as "good" LASIK doctor especially in this day and age. The procedure literally took 15 mins total and the doctor does nothing but put the things in your eyes that hold them open, put the the thing over your eye that makes the incision, and then hold your head when the laser starts to do its thing. There is absolutely nothing to it and the machine is doing all of the work. I had mine done in Kuwait by a U.S. trained doctor for $750 total. I mean who is out there getting bootleg LASIK training then buying or leasing a 200 to 400k machine to perform the procedure? I had the procedure done at 9 pm at night and was on the golf course the next morning at 6 am with no pain whatsoever. I have heard that the more procedures that the machine has done, the more post procedure discomfort you will likely have but I'm sure everyone will have their own experience. Yes it is your vision, but this procedure is not new anymore and it shouldn't cost 3k per eye anymore like it used to in the early days.
  3. Absoluletly!! Actually let me correct that statement before I go on for clarity. The force is sent at a tangent angle to the swing arc and not the target line. I didn't proofread that comment with my normal due diligence before posting so my apologies for any confusion. I will put up my favorite diagram of a planet revolving around the Sun on a horizontal plane but all you have to do is imagine it on a tilted plane and it can represent a golf swing. This is normally a very long explanation but I will try to be as precise as possible knowing that you will likely have a couple more questions later on but we will address them at that time: Diagram 1 Diagram 1 would represent your shoulder line which sets the tilted plane of your swing, and the Sun represents your swing center which is technically a few inches target side of your sternum since one hand is lower on the club while holding it. If you look at the Diagram 1 there is quite a bit of knowledge to be derived. Firstly in regards to your question if you look at the Diagram 1 you will notice that the only time that force will be sent down the target line would be at low point of the swing arc. However, since no golf shot is stuck at low point that means there is no shot where you will be sending the momentum of the swing along the target line. In other words there is no shot that you will orient your shoulders parallel to the target line and try to hit a straight shot at the target. Also for this diagram all of these shots will fly straight and when you are hitting shots you will be looking for straight flying shots. A straight flying shot is a shot that is struck with a club face square to the swing arc. A clearer explanation would be if you were spinning in a circle with a ball on a string, no matter when you released the string, the ball would fly straight because it will travel at a tangent angle to the swing arc. This is still true in the golf swing arc but there is only a narrow window along the swing arc in which a ball will be hit. but the same rules would still apply. Force vectors in action and in the still frame for the video you can see that the force vector for shaft parallel in the downswing matches the Diagram 1 above (orange ball is on the alignment stick right at shaft parallel) if you begin to stop the handle at shaft parallel, but this vector will change depending on how fast twitch you are where the faster you are the later in the swing arc you will likely have to wait to maintain leverage on your shots. This point at which you begin to stop the handle will also change as you begin to fatigue and it must be accounted for also. Since all golf shots hit off the ground should be struck with a downward angle of attack you will see that the force vector just prior to the one pointing straight ahead in Diagram 1 is pointed way out to the right. That means that in order for you to hit a levered straight flying golf shot down the same line as the one pointing straight ahead you would have to orient the plane of your swing left of the target line until it lines up with your intended target line. You will then send the momentum of your swing along your shoulder line or plane of your swing, and not along the target line and this is very important to note. The final pieces of the equation will be when begin to stop the handle end of the club and how that will effect things. In Diagram 1 you can see that the only timeframe that you can efficiently to stop the handle end of the club is in the part of the swing arc between shaft parallel in the down swing and just prior to low point of the swing arc as any other time will be wasted effort. If you stop the handle prior to shaft parallel you will be directing momentum away from the target (casting) and if you do it after impact then you didn't efficiently transfer energy to the ball, and finally if you do it after low point of the swing arc then then the club head has begun negative acceleration as it begins to fight against gravity. So for a shot hit off the ground the handle end must be stopped between shaft parallel on the down swing and just prior to impact and for a ball being hit off a tee the handle must be stopped between shaft parallel on the down swing and just prior to low point because a ball being struck off a tee can be hit with an upward angle of attack. Just like if you were pushing a kid on a swing, there is an optimal point to push them for max efficiency and a golf swing is no different. A lot of the stop the handle concept is covered in this thread that I encourage you to read through: This is the quick and dirty explanation and please let me know your further questions and I will explain further. R to L
  4. You have to find shoes and solutions that help to retrain your foot to land properly while you also fix the body to help solve why it was landing improperly as you will need both to fix the issue long term. I found a solution in the unlikeliest of places...tennis shoes....like literal tennis shoes for playing tennis. This shoe literally changed my life and I will never buy another pair of running shoes ever again. Tennis shoes provide way more support than running shoes and that makes sense when you think about the demands of each. A tennis shoe will need much more lateral support than a running shoe. The first thing these shoes did is ensure that my foot lands properly because of the camber on the back part of the heel. This was huge for me as my foot would usually land towards the outside of my heel and then roll onto the outside of my foot which was basically overriding my orthotic and causing stress on my ankles, knees, low back etc. and on up the chain. The next critical part of the equation is shown here: These shoes have an extension to the sole that blocks the foot from rolling to the outside and this was huge for me as it completed the entire process where my foot was forced to land properly and also complete the rest of the step properly and this now allowed the orthotic to function properly. I always closely monitor the wear pattern on the bottom of my shoes and now my shoes wear evenly across the sole and the same on both shoes whereas before my shoes would wear only towards the outer part of the sole. The downside to this is that there is a time where the body is getting used to this adjustment and my ankles, calves, and hips where trying to shift in to a better position and this can be quite uncomfortable. Just like I remember the agony of correcting a pinched nerve I had in my back where the process to get everything back into proper orientation was just about as painful as the pinched nerve was if not more! That being said once everything was back in place I feel so much better. Also remember that most of the time pain in one location is caused by a deficiency in another. I had to really grind on my calves and hamstrings before my foot pain went away fully. My calves were so tight that they wouldn't allow my foot to strike the ground properly so also keep that in mind as you address the issue. Best of luck. R to L
  5. Lasik is awesome...that is all!! Just kidding I had Lasik some years ago and was playing golf within 8 hours of getting it. Yes there is an adjustment period when you go from not being able to track a ball in flight to seeing everything in high definition again but the body will adjust quickly. Your depth perception will not likely be the same as for me the ground appeared to be "closer to my face" and it is amazing how hard your body has to work when your vision is compromised and you will at least be seeing at 20/20 after the surgery and so that will mean your depth perception will change for sure. If you can't track a ball from start to finish then I don't think you realize how bad your vision truly is and your expectations are much too low. Your vision will be sharp and crisp afterwards. It is so worth it though and I am very happy that I got it done as it only took about 15 mins total but it is a game changer procedure in my opinion.
  6. Too many to name all of them as I take in a ton of golf content on the daily! I have found that I can learn something from just about all of them to help piece things together in my golf journey. These days I am much more into seeing vlogs of different courses from all over the world and such and also content that really gets into the science of golf because I rather enjoy seeing how all of the engineering classes and such apply to golf.
  7. Are you sure that it is a powder coated finish? That is a pretty durable finish and you would have to really go out of your way to damage that. I had my wheels on my car powder coated and they still look new after years of road abuse. I would imagine a powder coated putter head would do well for many years without showing any wear but I may be mistaken. That being said: Is powder coating hard to remove? Though its durability is one of its greatest strengths, it is possible to remove powder coating from a substrate without destroying it in the process. You can remove powder coating with a chemical stripper, abrasive blasting, or extreme heat. There are even lasers designed to remove coatings.
  8. Love this drill....after the fact!! I HATED it in the moment!! I also did different versions of it where I would take the club back and stop...wait 3 seconds, then swing through. I would also do full swings in slow motion where the swing would take some 8 seconds and so I could really feel the swing motion. I would do these with every club in the bag including driver because it forced me to really be patient and hit the ball with body rotation because there is no force on the club so if I got handsy the clubhead would snap closed and I would pull the shot. I would do this at the beginning of every session for 45 mins and then I would slowly add speed until felt things break down. I would then back off and that would be my max speed for that day. I would then try to increase my cruising speed next time. It was very important for me to video my swing every few weeks because mentally I was going mad, but the progress was showing up on video after about a 6 weeks of very focused effort. I was wondering how things were goin with you Paddy_2_Iron! I will shoot you a message as to not threadjack someone else's thread.
  9. This is actually a true statement but it will wreck the body's timing initially. The process takes longer than you think and initially you will hit it shorter because you are taking the hands out of the equation so for a time you will have a shorter swing motion AND less force production but over time the body will adjust but it may take months. The distance will come back once the range of motion of the hips increases and your timing resets.
  10. I did it...and I'll give the short and dirty explanation. It was a horrible experience...but worth it! It took me six months and some 19,000 reps to get it done and the hardest parts were recalibrating your timing and getting your body to accept it and trusting that you will still create plenty of power and speed because you can't lever the club until the shaft has reached AT LEAST shaft parallel on the downswing and also before low point of the swing arc. A bigger swing arc doesn't mean that you will hit it further, it actually means that you have to wait longer to get on the lever because if you attempt to assist the momentum of the club prior to shaft parallel on the downswing you will be wasting motion. The kicker is that all of the work didn't show up on the course until about a full year later when I played the best golf of my life and went 3 weeks without shooting over 80 so if you are expecting it to show up immediately then in most cases you will be very disappointed because you are basically recalibrating your entire swing mechanism and this take way more time than you think to accomplish. You will basically be doing work and not being sure if it will actually be better for you in the end. It was quite the process and I had many a day where I was furious with the process but I did get results in the end after a ton of work This is the swing extender training aid that I modified to further widen out my swing as it blocked my trail arm from bending and maintained width in my swing. This thing was the source of many a curse word because it forces you to be rotary and use your body to hit the ball and not be handsy which is very important. The process to shorten the swing yet maintain width is the goal but you will have many days where you will want to quit I assure you as it will take months to actually shorten the swing motion. I only focused on shortening my swing in practice sessions and never on the course because it is a process and and will take time to show up on the course. A short swing will still have plenty of hip turn but very little wrist action and even when you think it is short, you will see it on video and it will still be roughly the same for a while!! Best of luck... R to L. .
  11. Find what works for you and hit it until the face caves in is my motto!
  12. I know that it seems small but the swing plane does not follow the line of the stance...unless it happens to match the shoulder plane. I know what you meant but I feel that it is important to begin to eliminate the thought that the club will follow the line of the stance. The club will always follow the line of the shoulders as the club is being held in the hands and this is so important to note as that is true plane of the swing no matter how the stance is oriented. The momentum of the swing should be sent along the shoulder line and thus the second part of your comment is correct as there are no shots in which the momentum of the swing would be sent at the actual target because no shot is stuck at low point. The force of the swing is being sent at a tangent angle to the target line (Correction: swing arc) always and not understanding this will eventually invite the shanks into one's game. If you understand this alone then you should actually be able to hit a shank on purpose which would be peak understanding along with hitting a toe shank also as you will see just how small the margins are between a shank and a levered golf shot. Please let me know if I was unclear on anything and I will expound. R to L
  13. A hosel shank is literally a conflict between where the plane or shoulder line of your swing is oriented and where you are actually swinging at impact. For instance the easiest way to hit beautiful hosel shanks on purpose is if you open up your shoulder line or swing plane ( say 10 o'clock on a clock face), which will point the plane of your swing more left for a right handed player, and then swing at a target at 12 o'clock on the clock face. Unless the ball is well back of your low point of your swing arc, the hosel will intersect the ball and tah dah...hosel shank!! Think critically about what is happening around impact. You are hitting the ball off the hosel...you are therefore making errors in your calculation as to the position of the clubhead while it is under force. Your address position is not under force so the club will not return to that same spot when it returns under force into impact. The club is trying to pull away from you but you are not accounting for it so you are introducing the hosel to the ball! I don't know if you address the ball in middle of the face or not, but if you do, and you changed nothing, simply addressing the ball off the toe would move your strike away from the hosel. You have to figure out where you need to address the ball statically so that the middle of the face will be in the way when the club is in motion and under force. I have the opposite problem where I rarely if ever hit hosel shanks but when I get it wrong I will get too far away from the ball and hit a toe shank.
  14. I had my measurements taken and once he had that measurement then all he did was measure the width of each polo and note how much he would need to bring each side in by. I told him that I didn't need the shoulders adjusted as I have broad shoulders and thus the shirts fit fine in the shoulders and no adjustment was needed. He then flipped the shirt inside out and sewed a seam down each side that started right at the armpit of the shirt. I didn't have him cut out the excess material because at the time I figured I'd gain the weight back...but low and behold I didn't! I wasn't looking for absolute perfection...I was looking for a reasonable solution so that I didn't have to give away 50 polo shirts and that is exactly what he provided. I'm sure that there are more detailed ways to do it and that route should maybe be taken on your favorite polos but if I bring a tailor 50 shirts to adjust there is no way that I'm paying 20 bucks a shirt especially after seeing the process. That being said...if you like a polo shirt and it isn't available in your exact size and measurements...buy the shirt in a bigger size and get it tailored even if it cost $30 or whatever. This Is what the seam looks like and this is on my work shirts that go through hell and one has never come loose in the years I've been wearing them. This reduced the shirt's midsection by 2 inches on each side so a total of 4 inches and took 5 mins to do as there was no need to cut off the slack as it is only two inches of fabric folded together and you cant even see the color of the thread used which was light blue when the shirt is being worn so any color could have been used. It works perfectly for slimming just the midsection which is the premise of this thread and there is no way this should cost anything more than a few bucks a shirt.
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