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Righty to Lefty

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Posts posted by Righty to Lefty

  1. On 1/8/2022 at 5:40 AM, GungHoGolf said:

    With an open-face wedge, path has far more influence on launch direction than face. 

    This is incorrect....it is more difficult to tilt the spin axis of the ball as loft is added thus path has less effect than it already did which was about a 15% influence. The ball always starts where the face is pointed and there is no scenario where path has a bigger influence than the club face does on start direction. 



    • Like 2
  2. I am not buying that there is a such thing as "good" LASIK doctor especially in this day and age.  The procedure literally took 15 mins total and the doctor does nothing but put the things in your eyes that hold them open, put the the thing over your eye that makes the incision, and then hold your head when the laser starts to do its thing. There is absolutely nothing to it and the machine is doing all of the work.  I had mine done in Kuwait by a U.S. trained doctor for $750 total.  I mean who is out there getting bootleg LASIK training then buying or leasing a 200 to 400k machine to perform the procedure?  I had the procedure done at 9 pm at night and was on the golf course the next morning at 6 am with no pain whatsoever.  I have heard that the more procedures that the machine has done, the more post procedure discomfort you will likely have but I'm sure everyone will have their own experience. Yes it is your vision, but this procedure is not new anymore and it shouldn't cost 3k per eye anymore like it used to in the early days.  

    • Haha 1
  3. 8 hours ago, ccash88 said:

    @Righty to LeftyI am interested in the comment that the force of the swing is being sent on a tangent angle to the target line.  Can you expound on that some for me?

    Absoluletly!! Actually let me correct that statement before I go on for clarity.  The force is sent at a tangent angle to the swing arc and not the target line.  I didn't proofread that comment with my normal due diligence before posting so my apologies for any confusion.  I will put up my favorite diagram of a planet revolving around the Sun on a horizontal plane but all you have to do is imagine it on a tilted plane and it can represent a golf swing. This is normally a very long explanation but I will try to be as precise as possible knowing that you will likely have a couple more questions later on but we will address them at that time: 


    Diagram 1

    Rahm - Physical Limitations - Page 2 - Tour Talk - GolfWRX

    Diagram 1 would represent your shoulder line which sets the tilted plane of your swing, and the Sun represents your swing center which is technically a few inches target side of your sternum since one hand is lower on the club while holding it. If you look at the Diagram 1 there is quite a bit of knowledge to be derived. Firstly in regards to your question if you look at the Diagram 1 you will notice that the only time that force will be sent down the target line would be at low point of the swing arc.  However, since no golf shot is stuck at low point that means there is no shot where you will be sending the momentum of the swing along the target line.  In other words there is no shot that you will orient your shoulders parallel to the target line and try to hit a straight shot at the target.  Also for this diagram all of these shots will fly straight and when you are hitting shots you will be looking for straight flying shots.  A straight flying shot is a shot that is struck with a club face square to the swing arc. A clearer explanation would be if you were spinning in a circle with a ball on a string, no matter when you released the string, the ball would fly straight because it will travel at a tangent angle to the swing arc. This is still true in the golf swing arc but there is only a narrow window along the swing arc in which a ball will be hit. but the same rules would still apply. 


    Force vectors in action and in the still frame for the video you can see that the force vector for shaft parallel in the downswing matches the Diagram 1 above (orange ball is on the alignment stick right at shaft parallel) if you begin to stop the handle at shaft parallel,  but this vector will change depending on how fast twitch you are where the faster you are the later in the swing arc you will likely have to wait to maintain leverage on your shots. This point at which you begin to stop the handle will also change as you begin to fatigue and it must be accounted for also. 


    Since all golf shots hit off the ground should be struck with a downward angle of attack you will see that the force vector just prior to the one pointing straight ahead in Diagram  1 is pointed way out to the right.  That means that in order for you to hit a levered straight flying golf shot down the same line as the one pointing straight ahead you would have to orient the plane of your swing left of the target line until it lines up with your intended target line.  You will then send the momentum of your swing along your shoulder line or plane of your swing, and not along the target line and this is very important to note.  


    The final pieces of the equation will be when begin to stop the handle end of the club and how that will effect things. In Diagram 1 you can see that the only timeframe that you can efficiently to stop the handle end of the club is in the part of the swing arc between shaft parallel in the down swing and just prior to low point of the swing arc as any other time will be wasted effort. If you stop the handle prior to shaft parallel you will be directing momentum away from the target (casting) and if you do it after impact then you didn't efficiently transfer energy to the ball, and finally if you do it after low point of the swing arc then then the club head has begun negative acceleration as it begins to fight against gravity. So for a shot hit off the ground the handle end must be stopped between shaft parallel on the down swing and just prior to impact and for a ball being hit off a tee the handle must be stopped between shaft parallel on the down swing and just prior to low point because a ball being struck off a tee can be hit with an upward angle of attack. Just like if you were pushing a kid on a swing, there is an optimal point to push them for max efficiency and a golf swing is no different. 


     A lot of the stop the handle concept is covered in this thread that I encourage you to read through: 



    This is the quick and dirty explanation and please let me know your further questions and I will explain further.  R to L


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  4. You have to find shoes and solutions that help to retrain your foot to land properly while you also fix the body to help solve why it was landing improperly as you will need both to fix the issue long term.  I found a solution in the unlikeliest of places...tennis shoes....like literal tennis shoes for playing tennis.  This shoe literally changed my life and I will never buy another pair of running shoes ever again.  Tennis shoes provide way more support than running shoes and that makes sense when you think about the demands of each. A tennis shoe will need much more lateral support than a running shoe. 


    Zoom Image

    The first thing these shoes did is ensure that my foot lands properly because of the camber on the back part of the heel. This was huge for me as my foot would usually land towards the outside of my heel and then roll onto the outside of my foot which was basically overriding my orthotic and causing stress on my ankles, knees, low back etc. and on up the chain.  The next critical part of the equation is shown here: 

    Zoom Image

    These shoes have an extension to the sole that blocks the foot from rolling to the outside and this was huge for me as it completed the entire process where my foot was forced to land properly and also complete the rest of the step properly and this now allowed the orthotic to function properly.  I always closely monitor the wear pattern on the bottom of my shoes and now my shoes wear evenly across the sole and the same on both shoes whereas before my shoes would wear only towards the outer part of the sole. 


    The downside to this is that there is a time where the body is getting used to this adjustment and my ankles, calves, and hips where trying to shift in to a better position and this can be quite uncomfortable.  Just like I remember the agony of correcting a pinched nerve I had in my back where the process to get everything back into proper orientation was just about as painful as the pinched nerve was if not more!  That being said once everything was back in place I feel so much better. Also remember that most of the time pain in one location is caused by a deficiency in another. I had to really grind on my calves and hamstrings before my foot pain went away fully.  My calves were so tight that they wouldn't allow my foot to strike the ground properly so also keep that in mind as you address the issue.  Best of luck. R to L

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  5. 12 hours ago, Trap Junior said:

    I am considering getting laser eye surgery to help my golf as my eyesight is quite poor for tracking the flight of the ball.  I cant see the flight of the ball when I hit my driver.  Frequently I see none of the flight at all.  Had my initial consultation today and the optometrist said my eyes are too dry curently to have surgery and that I will have to do 4 weeks treatment and then have another consultation before I am eligible.  If it doesnt improve I cant have surgery.


    Anyway my question is I assumed my depth perception would be the same and everythign would appear normal except sha0pr and less blurry.  The optometrist seemed to suggest I may not like the depth perception once done.


    Anyone any experience of this and did it mess up your depth perception?  Even if eligible I am now having doubts.

    Lasik is awesome...that is all!! Just kidding I had Lasik some years ago and was playing golf within 8 hours of getting it. Yes there is an adjustment period when you go from not being able to track a ball in flight to seeing everything in high definition again but the body will adjust quickly.  Your depth perception will not likely be the same as for me the ground appeared to be "closer to my face" and it is amazing how hard your body has to work when your vision is compromised and you will at least be seeing at 20/20 after the surgery and so that will mean your depth perception will change for sure.  If you can't track a ball from start to finish then I don't think you realize how bad your vision truly is and your expectations are much too low. Your vision will be sharp and crisp afterwards.  It is so worth it though and I am very happy that I got it done as it only took about 15 mins total but it is a game changer procedure in my opinion.  

  6. Too many to name all of them as I take in a ton of golf content on the daily!  I have found that I can learn something from just about all of them to help piece things together in my golf journey. These days I am much more into seeing vlogs of different courses from all over the world and such and also content that really gets into the science of golf because I rather enjoy seeing how all of the engineering classes and such apply to golf.  

  7. Are you sure that it is a powder coated finish?  That is a pretty durable finish and you would have to really go out of your way to damage that.  I had my wheels on my car powder coated and they still look new after years of road abuse.  I would imagine a powder coated putter head would do well for many years without showing any wear but I may be mistaken.  That being said:


    Is powder coating hard to remove?
    Though its durability is one of its greatest strengths, it is possible to remove powder coating from a substrate without destroying it in the process. You can remove powder coating with a chemical stripper, abrasive blasting, or extreme heat. There are even lasers designed to remove coatings.
  8. 12 hours ago, rondo01 said:

    behold. The kick you in the teeth, **** your timing drill to end all drills

    associated discussion: 


    Love this drill....after the fact!! I HATED it in the moment!! I also did different versions of it where I would take the club back and stop...wait 3 seconds, then swing through. I would also do full swings in slow motion where the swing would take some 8 seconds and so I could really feel the swing motion.   I would do these with every club in the bag including driver because it forced me to really be patient and hit the ball with body rotation because there is no force on the club so if I got handsy the clubhead would snap closed and I would pull the shot.  I would do this at the beginning of every session for 45 mins and then I would slowly add speed until felt things break down. I would then back off and that would be my max speed for that day.  I would then try to increase my cruising speed next time.  It was very important for me to video my swing every few weeks because mentally I was going mad, but the progress was showing up on video after about a 6 weeks of very focused effort.  



    11 hours ago, Paddy_2_Iron said:


    Don't get me wrong the irons are improving a lot, I mean a lot.  Straight and semi on target, prior too it was all timing.  Good holes bad holes, bad golf.  Now I might thin one from time to time, but nothing egregious.  


    The drive though has really become limp.  How did you build up your core to get strong to swing faster with the rotatory swing?   Any videos?

    I was wondering how things were goin with you Paddy_2_Iron!  I will shoot you a message as to not threadjack someone else's thread.  

  9. On 1/5/2022 at 6:42 PM, mikpga said:

    Keep trail arm straight like a steel rod, see how "short" your backswing becomes...

    This is actually a true statement but it will wreck the body's timing initially. 


    18 hours ago, Paddy_2_Iron said:


    I'll give that a try.  Before the shortening, I was driving the ball around 225 carry, 245 roll out.  Now, it's probably 200 now on average.  Maybe I need to do some medicine ball drills or something.  I'm 46 with limited flexibility so my expectations are tempered.  But still....   I really should be carrying 225 - 240 with my size and build.  At least I think.....

    The process takes longer than you think and initially you will hit it shorter because you are taking the hands out of the equation so for a time you will have a shorter swing motion AND less force production but over time the body will adjust but it may take months.  The distance will come back once the range of motion of the hips increases and your timing resets.  

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  10. I did it...and I'll give the short and dirty explanation.  It was a horrible experience...but worth it! It took me six months and some 19,000 reps to get it done and the hardest parts were recalibrating your timing and getting your body to accept it and trusting that you will still create plenty of power and speed because you can't lever the club until the shaft has reached AT LEAST shaft parallel on the downswing and also before low point of the swing arc.  A bigger swing arc doesn't mean that you will hit it further, it actually means that you have to wait longer to get on the lever because if you attempt to assist the momentum of the club prior to shaft parallel on the downswing you will be wasting motion.


    The kicker is that all of the work didn't show up on the course until about a full year later when I played the best golf of my life and went 3 weeks without shooting over 80 so if you are expecting it to show up immediately then in most cases you will be very disappointed because you are basically recalibrating your entire swing mechanism and this take way more time than you think to accomplish.  You will basically be doing work and not being sure if it will actually be better for you in the end.  It was quite the process and I had many a day where I was furious with the process but I did get results in the end after a ton of work


    This is the swing extender training aid that I modified to further widen out my swing as it blocked my trail arm from bending and maintained width in my swing. This thing was the source of many a curse word because it forces you to be rotary and use your body to hit the ball and not be handsy which is very important. The process to shorten the swing yet maintain width is the goal but you will have many days where you will want to quit I assure you as it will take months to actually shorten the swing motion.  I only focused on shortening my swing in practice sessions and never on the course because it is a process and and will take time to show up on the course.  A short swing will still have plenty of hip turn but very little wrist action and even when you think it is short, you will see it on video and it will still be roughly the same for a while!! Best of luck... R to L. 


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  11. On 1/7/2022 at 6:56 PM, DShepley said:

    Yes....the open clubface starts the ball in the direction of the target, not the path of the clubhead.  If you open the clubface, point it at the ball, then open your stance and shoulders, your path needs to follow your toe line....if you swing the clubhead towards the target you are toast!


    I know that it seems small but the swing plane does not follow the line of the stance...unless it happens to match the shoulder plane.  I know what you meant but I feel that it is important to begin to eliminate the thought that the club will follow the line of the stance. The club will always follow the line of the shoulders as the club is being held in the hands and this is so important to note as that is true plane of the swing no matter how the stance is oriented. 


    The momentum of the swing should be sent along the shoulder line and thus the second part of your comment is correct as there are no shots in which the momentum of the swing would be sent at the actual target because no shot is stuck at low point. The force of the swing is being sent at a tangent angle to the target line (Correction: swing arc) always and not understanding this will eventually invite the shanks into one's game.  If you understand this alone then you should actually  be able to hit a shank on purpose which would be peak understanding along with hitting a toe shank also as you will see just how small the margins are between a shank and a levered golf shot.  Please let me know if I was unclear on anything and I will expound.  R to L 

  12. On 1/4/2022 at 7:10 PM, Wormkiller said:

    Hello all,


    Over the last month or so I learnt to be confident playing pitch shots opening the face and using the bounce. They have been great for me in producing high lofted shots around the green that stop. However yesterday towards the end of and today in practice I started wildly shanking these shots. One recent change I’ve made is opening my stance a bit more. I can’t seem to get the feel of brining the club inside so the hozel is making contact with the ball.

    Any help would be appreciated.



    A hosel shank is literally a conflict between where the plane or shoulder line of your swing is oriented and where you are actually swinging at impact. For instance the easiest way to hit beautiful hosel shanks on purpose is if you open up your shoulder line or swing plane ( say 10 o'clock on a clock face), which will point the plane of your swing more left for a right handed player, and then swing at a target at 12 o'clock on the clock face.  Unless the ball is well back of your low point of your swing arc, the hosel will intersect the ball and tah dah...hosel shank!! Think critically about what is happening around impact.  You are hitting the ball off the hosel...you are therefore making errors in your calculation as to the position of the clubhead while it is under force. 


    Your address position is not under force so the club will not return to that same spot when it returns under force into impact.  The club is trying to pull away from you but you are not accounting for it so you are introducing the hosel  to the ball!  I don't know if you address the ball in middle of the face or not, but if you do, and you changed nothing, simply addressing the ball off the toe would move your strike away from the hosel.  You have to figure out where you need to address the ball statically so that the middle of the face will be in the way when the club is in motion and under force. I have the opposite problem where I rarely if ever hit hosel shanks but when I get it wrong I will get too far away from the ball and hit a toe shank. 

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  13. On 1/5/2022 at 3:39 PM, Chilidog said:

    As someone in the apparel industry, I can assure you that reading your story about your tailor tells me he doesn’t know what he’s doing. In order to reduce the size of a polo to be more trim, you have to follow the following steps:


    1) Measure the person it is going on. 
    2) Measure the current polo (every single one of them. You can’t just cut and paste from polo to polo). You are also going to trim the sides, shoulders and the arms if done correctly. 
    3) Mark and pin the new polo (heck, the pinning process will take 5 min or more)

    4) Take the stitches out through the shoulder, arm and sides. 
    5) Cut any excess fabric before stitching

    6) Load the machine with the correct color for the stitch and set the stitch for the machine. 
    7) Stitch shoulder first, arm holes next, followed by the side seam. 

    My guess is your tailor only took out a side seam and left a size or two larger in the arm and the shoulder seam drooping down off your shoulder. That is not the correct way to tailor a golf shirt. 

    This process doesn’t happen in 5 min. If someone is really fast, it may take them 10 min to do properly. Normal people in the US and not people I’ve watched in Asia,  you can count on it taking 15+ minutes. 

    It all becomes infinitely more hard when you have raglan sleeves, etc. 

    I had my measurements taken and once he had that measurement then all he did was measure the width of each polo and note how much he would need to bring each side in by. I told him that I didn't need the shoulders adjusted as I have broad shoulders and thus the shirts fit fine in the shoulders and no adjustment was needed.  He then flipped the shirt inside out and sewed a seam down each side that started right at the armpit of the shirt.  I didn't have him cut out the excess material because at the time I figured I'd gain the weight back...but low and behold I didn't! I wasn't looking for absolute perfection...I was looking for a reasonable solution so that I didn't have to give away 50 polo shirts and that is exactly what he provided. I'm sure that there are more detailed ways to do it and that route should maybe be taken on your favorite polos but if I bring a tailor 50 shirts to adjust there is no way that I'm paying 20 bucks a shirt especially after seeing the process.  That being said...if you like a polo shirt and it isn't available in your exact size and measurements...buy the shirt in a bigger size and get it tailored even if it cost $30 or whatever.     


    This Is what the seam looks like and this is on my work shirts that go through hell and one has never come loose in the years I've been wearing them. 



    This reduced the shirt's midsection by 2 inches on each side so a total of 4 inches and took 5 mins to do as there was no need to cut off the slack as it is only two inches of fabric folded together and you cant even see the color of the thread used which was light blue when the shirt is being worn so any color could have been used. It works perfectly for slimming just the midsection which is the premise of this thread and there is no way this should cost anything more than a few bucks a shirt.

  14. 4 minutes ago, EricWGolf said:

    I’m not sure where you are located, but a simple pants hem is minimum $20 around me, and that seems a lot simpler than resizing/tailoring a shirt.


    Also, time doesn’t always equal value.  It’s not the 5 minutes the tailor spent doing the task, it’s the hours and hours he/she spent learning to do it correctly.

    I was getting a hook up because I brought in 50 shirts as I stated as there is flat out no way that I would have paid $1,000 to have them done and after seeing the work done it is in no way rocket science and especially when all that was needed was the measurement off of one shirt and then it was simply duplicated on the others.  It is dead simple easy and even easier if you  don't need the sleeves slimmed down. A tailor doing 12 shirts in an hour would be commanding $240 an hour with a minimum of $20 charged and no one is paying that kind of money for a tailor to slim down a shirt...at least I hope they aren't. But if you are then like said don't pay $20 dollars to have a solid color polo slimmed down as you can find them in a cut that fits you with a little effort, but do pay it on your special polos from your travels that have logos on them.   Now I did pay $28 for my slacks to get done as they were taken apart and the size reduced and then hemmed with a golf slit added so that was much more labor intensive.    

  15. On 1/2/2022 at 1:23 PM, Wallstreet1978 said:

    Peter Millar’s Crown Crafted collection is slim fitting…or Holderness and Bourne which is quickly becoming my favorite brand…there aren’t ant tailors in the Minneapolis area that will do the work above for $1.80 but it would be great if there was!

    Whatever the price is it shouldn't be too expensive, I watched a tailor do it and it literally took 5 mins, and it is just an alternative so that you don't have to be cornered into only wearing certain shirts from certain companies and can buy ones that you really want from anyone knowing that you can make them fit.  I'm sure that you can find a solid color polo to fit you as someone somewhere makes it, but what about the unique polo that you found on vacation from a golf course that has their logo on it but they didn't have the size, cut, and manufacturer that fit you exactly?  Do you walk away because they don't carry your exact size or do you buy a bigger size and pay to have it adjusted to fit you? 

  16. On 12/31/2021 at 5:48 PM, Milfordlefty said:

    I guilty of the ball balancer, Alien sand wedge and a chipper as experiments, they never lasted in the bag. I built a set of System 5000 hybrid irons, 4-PW 15-20 yrs ago. I played a 2nd tier single length (traditional iron head) 4 years ago (won league team championship with them).


    I have a TM SLDR Mini. It is not a gimmick, it works well has a tee club, used it when my rebuilding my 460cc driver swing after it went south one year. I am back to a 460cc driver.


    I found a Polara straight ball, played it, nothing to write home about, and lost it in woods.


    The only gimmick club I back 100% is the Cleveland Golf Smart Sole sand wedge (58°). I only use it out of a bunker or if in deep rough with a hazard between ball and green. For me it works.

    The Smart Sole wedge and wedges of that ilk are fantastic and will always have a home in my bag...they just flat out work. In my  opinion they are not even close to gimmick as they are awesome! 

  17. That is because the pros are getting their clothes tailored. Tailoring a shirt is very simple and you could literally turn a 3 XL shirt into a small if you wanted to as it is just that easy and a tailor should be able to tailor the midsection of any shirt for a few bucks as it is as simple as flipping the shirt inside out and sewing a seam down each side.  I had a tailor that would do it for $1.80 per shirt so you don't have to corner yourself into any one brand and if you really like the polo then buy it and get it tailored to your needs.  You can even buy bigger sizes and have them slimmed down because the sleeves can be adjusted just as easily as the midsection can.  I used to wear a 2XL to 3XL shirt and I thought that I was going to lose all of them when I lost a bunch of weight and now wear an XL shirt but I have had this done to some 50 polos and you can't tell that it was done to any of them.


    When you see the process you will understand that it is pretty easy and will in no way ruin the shirt and you have the choice whether or not to cut the excess material out after he seam has been sewn in and if you leave it then you could return the shirt to its original size later by just removing the seam: 


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  18. 3 hours ago, mantan said:

    A rich guy spending a ton of money on golf clubs is probably still way less expensive than a lot of hobbies they can afford to do.  And as others have said, the money is not a factor for them.


    What about the solidly middle class 18 handicap that cycles through clubs, exotic shafts and spends a lot bigger percentage of their income to be the exact same 18 handicap?  Are they trying to 'buy a game' as well?


    I think a lot of people see the equipment side of the game as a hobby that brings them as much enjoyment as playing.

    This ^^^^ . Middle class America are likely the ones that bought the rich guy/gal all that gear in the first place because rich people are pretty damn savvy at keeping as much of their money as possible.  Middle class America always falls for the tricks hook line and sinker and it amazes me in retrospect as we've all been there.  I am a Dallas Cowboys fan and really want to go to a game and see them play in person...until I found out how much it cost to go to the game for three people, then it gives me pause!  I can afford it...but I don't want to, because it seems way too much to watch a football game!  I then think about all the people that fill that stadium for home games and that most of them have given a way bigger percentage of their salary to see the Cowboys play in person.  The Superbowl perplexes me even more when middle class customers are paying 25k to see the game...damn!  


    The games that businesses play are mostly designed to convince the middle class to give up their money believing that they are getting a good deal.  Another example of this in plain sight is apparel.  I know someone in that business and it gave me a completely different perspective on clothes also as somehow Hugo Boss, Galvin Green, for example somehow have convinced people that their polyester and cotton shirts are somehow better than Walter Hagen's, 2GG, or cheaper alternatives and that you should pay $120 dollars for a polo shirt.  It is flat out madness. I am not going to tell the company that I saw their pricing sheet but I will say that it makes it hard for me to spend anything over $20 for a polo shirt or slacks because the mark up is ridiculous.  Golf clubs should be going down in price every year as any technology becomes cheaper over time yet the golf industry convinces us that they are making ground breaking advancements every year and that you should now pay 1,000 to 1,500 dollars for a set of irons and that is simply ridiculous.  A set of irons should cost no more than $500 and we know it, but we fall for the marketing hype each and every year.  What if microwaves that started out as 7,000 where now $10,000, we would stop buying them....and force them to lower their prices...but we don't.  


    That being said if a person goes into a store and buys up 10k worth of gear and apparel with 1 million in the bank it is only 1% of their net worth and when put into perspective with someone with 100k in the bank spending 1k or someone with 50k spending $500 it shows that what is considered big spending is different depending on your financial perspective.   There are definitely levels to things.  



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  19. 4 hours ago, betarhoalphadelta said:


    Well of course I realize that. That's why I phrased it that you have $315 in Callaway stock and not that you've got $315 or that you've lost $185. 


    Maybe the drop in stock price was due to a momentary blip in a secular bull market. Maybe it was due to competitive forces of other golf equipment vendors (incl. DTC) gaining market share on Callaway. Maybe it was that golf, despite the COVID boom, is a secular bear market that isn't growing. Maybe it's due to external market conditions causing a reduction in spend on discretionary income. 


    The point was that investing is good, but investing with the expectation that you'll gain enough to buy a new driver next year is, well, overconfident given the vagaries of the market. 


    You miss the point completely....I was posing an example of a process that gives insight into how the rich people that I interact with think.  I was simply using Callaway stock as an example because this is a golf conversation but it could be any asset or investment.  I did my research and felt like Callaway golf was worth a medium timeframe investment especially when they were in discussions to acquire Top Golf and it returned much more than a driver in less than a year, it returned the vehicle that I currently drive. I told myself that I will never purchase another vehicle ever again with my  money.  My investments will have to buy it for me as that means that I must invest continually and also be patient to let it grow over time. That is the  lesson that my rich friends were trying to teach me.  You should invest with the expectation of it producing a certain amount of return otherwise why invest in the first place. You have to understand that the path to that return on your investment will likely not be linear.  

  20. On 12/2/2021 at 3:46 AM, SEP1006 said:

    Been using the Jumbomax Ultralight XL now for probably 2 years. Will NEVER go back to a standard or midsize gip again.

    Agreed...even when I hold a regular jumbo grip I wonder how I ever used them let alone a midsize or standard grip.  I also will NEVER go back either and especially since they make the non taper grips also which are even better for me as I am bottom hand dominant so it gives me more purchase on the club. 

  21. 12 hours ago, betarhoalphadelta said:


    That's all well and good until you invest $500 in Callaway at $27 and then a year later it's $17. Now you've got $315 in Callaway stock and no driver 😭


    Incorrect!!!! You have an unrealized loss...you haven't lost or gained anything until you sell but you are correct that the stock could go down.  If the stock goes down then you have to do what is so hard to do in life....be patient.  So maybe that year you may not get a new driver but over time the markets go up and assets go up in value over time.  A driver isn't an asset and it never even had a chance to go up in value and the plan to put your own money to work to go buy it for you is the deeper lesson that my rich friends have taught me.  

  22. On 12/28/2021 at 7:46 PM, RoyalMustang said:

    Before I started golfing, I always had this thought in my head that plenty of golfers would spend a ton of money on golf gear and clothes but mostly sucked.  As is said, one of the only things you can't buy is talent.  I always envisioned these guys being total hacks with $3,000 custom clubs and an attitude to match; the guys who owned the club but couldn't break 90 and tried to make it up by spending more money.  However, I have yet to meet anyone like this (granted, I play mostly at muni courses).  Also, I am not talking about rich people who buy $3,000 clubs just because they can (although I wouldn't be caught dead with a $3,000 bag if I didn't have a decent game).  It is the other type of player (you know it when you see it).  The car equivalent of a Gold Rush Rally participant (long story, but funny one). 


    Any funny stories here in the golf world about this type of player? Or is it just a figment of my imagination? 







    I think what is often overlooked is that most rich people, especially the ones that earned their wealth and didn't inherit it, are very resourceful, savvy, and actually quite frugal. That expensive country club membership is a tax write off because they use it to "entertain clients", as are those expensive cars and clothes and such as they are apart of their business.  Many rich and wealthy people are very good at protecting their money.  They are also heavily invested in assets that provide them with excess money because they think different. 


    I am by no means rich, but I have a few rich friends, and we often bounce ideas off each other and I use these conversation to prepare myself to deal with the responsibility should I ever become rich.  I will give an example that drove it home for me and stuck with me and I put them into practice until this day.  Savvy rich people hardly ever buy anything with "their" money, "you" bought it for them.  By "you" I mean their renter, their customers, the stock markets, etc.  If you want a Callaway driver, instead of saving up and buying it with your money, save up for the driver and put that money into Callaway stock for instance.  One year ago Callaway golf stock was about $17 a share, today it is $27.  Therefore if you had put that $500 into the market a year ago it would have returned $294 which would buy you that brand new driver and all you would have had to do was be patient and understand that you didn't need the driver right when it came out and that you will be fine with it nearer to the end of it's release cycle when it is on sale.  You would then still have your money but Callaway bought you a driver.  


    This example teaches many valuable lessons but the most important lesson is the purpose of work, and that is too build up and put that money to work so that eventually you, and  or your future generations will be provided with a strong foundation to build upon.  If $500 returned $294 then imagine what would happen if you had that same thinking with $500,000, 1 million, etc.  Initial patience to build the foundation would eventually return excess annually and thus everything that would be outwardly viewed as "showing off" wealth such as the flashy clubs, cars, and watches, you actually didn't even pay for with any of your own money as they were paid for by the proceeds that your foundational money returned, and that my friends is the cheat code and the deeper meaning that I drew from this thread. R to L

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  23. 16 hours ago, joostin said:

    With you man!  More to come...  Maybe start a stop the handle thread R-L?  Would probably be a good stand alone topic.


    Just anecdotally, I've had weird swings here and there that have felt off but good results - like I flipped at it and club tugged on me - not a smooth normal follow through, but also not a hard-effort swing while maintaining distance.  I also have had good results with Monte S.'s No Turn Cast (not actually bad cast motions but more a feel vs real thing), and that makes me think of Fred Couple's swing that seems handsy around impact.  I think this all relates to the release that we're talking about.


    That is a good idea and I will work on a thread....even though it might just be the two of us that ever visit it!! 

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