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  1. As we all know Monte has said that he has 100's of videos covering the same handful of topics. It's now quite interesting to me, purely from a personal feel perspective, to have implemented the NTC yet I have found myself in the bump, dump and turn territory. I failed miserably at actually trying to implement the bump, dump and turn but it's now the result of the NTC. Ho hum, that's my golf brain.
  2. and therein is the whole goal, IMO, hands that have attained a low position ready for the body/shoulder/whatever your feel, to rotate hard into the ball on a flatter plane than the backswing.
  3. Agreed, but also to keep the right shoulder moving, once it starts its rotational journey, just like in UTB when chipping.
  4. A few years back I was fortunate enough to have a couple of lessons with Monte one on one. I actually went to see him specifically about short game and his chipping method. I now feel that I'm a scratch golfer from a chipping perspective, compared to my 6 index in the rest of my game, and its all to do with my ability to get up and down from anywhere, which is a mindset that I didn't have before, and that confidence comes from a technique that I OWN. No longer do I hit and hope on chips and close pitches. The reason I make this statement is that in the course of learning Monte's method, which
  5. If its in the head then remove the rear weight, that will give you access to put some rattle stop in there.
  6. If you had a blue plug in the whole set then it's possible that these are a new TM design. As I previously said, TM have been using the area under the maximum shaft insertion depth for swing weights, and it's unlikely that a whole set would not have had a single weight installed. Equally, there's normally a 'lip' at the maximum shaft insertion depth that stops the shaft being inserted too far, just above the recess for the swing weights. From your comment it sounds as though your new shafts still hit the lip, which is good, about 1" to 1 1/8" deep for TM, but that the factory shafts would have
  7. The blue plug is likely a 'filler' instead of a hosel weight. Regardless of whether the recess where the plug/hosel weight resides is empty or filled it matters not. The actual hosel weights are extremely difficult to remove, so it's very unlikely you'd ever remove one by accident.
  8. TM use 'bullet' style weights that fit in a low recess at the bottom of the hosel below the shaft's maximum insertion depth. The plastic plugs are used when no tip weights are needed and presumably stop excess epoxy from pooling in the recess.
  9. Absolutely. Nevertheless, your new technique is a lot of work to remove a lot of excess plastic multiplied for the whole set. My way does the bulk of the work, you can then perfect the finish removing the last excess using your technique instead of acetone. Of course if there's not much to remove in the first place, then its of no consequence. I'm glad you found something new and achieved the commensurate results.
  10. Personally I've always just used acetone as I don't have a belt sander and sanding by hand isn't that much fun. However, if you want to 'cheat' you can use a six inch length of old shaft and put the ferrule on that (pressure fit), then insert into a power drill and offer it up to the sand paper. It turns down a large oversize ferrule pretty quickly and lets you then finish with acetone once the club is built. You can do a whole set of ferrules ready for building simply and easily. Not the most elegant solution, but it suffices and saves putting sand paper anywhere near
  11. Buy a tin of paint and paint a line each side of the fairway X yards into the rough. Cross the line and have a shot added to the score. Play it as it lies. No bifurcation, no equipment changes, no course re-design, no extra costs at all other than a couple of dollars of paint. Simples! p.s. It will be 'special' patented golf paint, that I will hold the IP to, so it might not be that inexpensive!
  12. Typically the 'tour' use 1.5 degree adapters and so did the retail products until the 2 degree versions were introduced into retail heads a few years ago. Same fit, same functionality other than minuscule loft/lie changes.
  13. There should be an etched serial number on the butt. Email Pros Choice, the distributor for Graphite Design, and they'll confirm the authenticity. I did the same a couple of years ago on two AD DI 7X black shafts, they were more than helpful
  14. 2g at the head end is 1 SW point, so answer your own question by trial and error, you may be sensitive to subtle SW changes, or not, its personal to you. There's PLENTY written about the subject, its as old a topic as there can be. You're in the right place....read the forum.
  15. With respect, either do it right, or just stick them together. In your situation just clean them up, stick them together and then one day fix the SW's with lead tape. To do anything else is somewhat a waste of time. Good luck. p.s. IMO grips aren't a SW factor as they vary tolerance wise in weight, better to use a single known 'split grip' for your build and then the final SW with the final grips will be 'about' right but the actual build will be proper and correct. Thus when you change grips it doesn't matter that the new grips' weights aren't t
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