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  1. I know what a joist is. I don't know what the pitch of his roof is, or what the building code is where he lives, but the joists are generally every 18", unless you have a very shallow pitch. He said the joists are at 10'. He also said he wants to hang his netting at 12'-13', which would be above the joists, leaving the joists exposed. From the original post: " if my joists are at 10 feet, what height netting is required to have enough slack and prevent bounceback? I was thinking 12 or 13 feet in height for safe measure." Even at 10' from the screen/back net, I can get a ball more than 10
  2. TPC Myrtle Beach is (maybe) half a step below Caledonia, and (at least) a step above the rest on your list. Same general area as well. I was expecting it to be punishing, being a TPC course, and it probably was from the tips, but from the middle tees, it was challenging but very fair. Tradition Club, Willbrook, and Wachesaw East are also south of MB proper, and great tracks. Have not personally played Blackmoor, but have heard great things about it. The International is a cheaper option in that area, but nothing special. Indigo Creek is a hard pass unless you're looking for a super
  3. If your joists are at 10 feet, why wouldn't you want your netting hanging below them? If you hit a ball off a joist, that's going to be a huge safety risk. You want to be at least 6 inches, preferably at least a foot, from any structure, including joists and walls. You want your netting to be able to have about 6-8 inches of give without hitting what's behind it. That gives it enough slack to absorb impact, without enough tension to cause springback. As far as the tees, check out Tomahawk tees. They're great for hitting off mats or frozen ground. For my sim setup, I just attach them to a pi
  4. I used to have a problem with a death grip on the club. I switched to midsize grips, and eventually to oversize grips, and it has definitely helped. With the larger grip, I feel much more comfortable with a more relaxed grip. I use Winn DriTacs, which are pretty soft and tacky. People have complained about durability, but I get at least a season out of mine, and I play a LOT of golf (right around 150 rounds this year so far).
  5. Too much (or improperly applied) heat in removing the old tip can damage the shaft. Something any competent club builder can handle, but if you get a hack, they could VERY easily destroy your shaft.
  6. I've been using the ones from Harbor Freight behind my net and my screen for 3 years. Not a single tear or hole.
  7. Just went back and looked at my recent score history. My last 20 18-hole scores are over the course of the last 6 weeks, and include a number of combined 9-hole scores. Current index is a 9.4. Scores range from 79-93. The 93 is a bit of an aberration, it was a combined round from a couple days when I was fighting through kidney stones Out of the 20 scores, all but 3 were on my home course (72.0/128). 10 of 20 are between 84 and 86, 5 are equal or better than my course handicap. I'd say my numbers are very typical. Even accepting the fact that a better player is g
  8. People who are absolute beginners need to learn from someone at some point that when on the course, you're expected to show consideration to those around you. That includes just moving on to the next hole when you reach a certain point, or at least picking up and finishing the hole from near the green. If I get stuck with slower players who are obviously new, I try to pass along tips for improving pace of play, how to play ready golf, etc., along with tips about etiquette and rules when the opportunity arises, never being confrontational about it. If they don't want to hear it, I don't push it
  9. Those that say "let people play whatever they want as long as they keep pace" and "most people know if they're not capable of playing from the tips", you're putting WAY too much faith in the golfing population. This might be true on a private course, but it's going to be anything but true on a public course, especially now with all the covid golfers. The problem with those statements is that there are a TON of people who don't know that they're not good enough to play from the tips, and they aren't capable of keeping pace from the tips, but because of ego they play the tips anyway
  10. If by "a foot INSIDE red line", you mean that it was a foot into the penalty area, then NO, he gets no relief. The rule of thumb is "the stake guides, but the line defines" when it comes to penalty areas, so the stake was part of the penalty area. Within a penalty area, there is no relief of any kind (including removing loose impediments, abnormal ground conditions, or man-made obstructions) except to take the one stroke penalty and standard relief from the penalty area itself.
  11. Except the heinous price, and having to give up your clubs for a few days. I'm not cheap by any means, but the minor hassle of handling my clubs myself is well worth the savings, and not having to give up my clubs (I play just about every day).
  12. They do, because a lot of the courses are owned by the Founders Group. As art mentioned, Arrowhead is a great choice. One of my personal favorites is World Tour Golf Links. Some people find it a bit gimicky (it's replicas of famous holes from around the world), but I found it to be a really fun layout. Fairly priced as well.
  13. I'm definitely in the "smaller is better" camp. For awhile, I swapped out my GBB Epic SZ driver for a GBB Epic 3+ wood (why the hell didn't they just label it a 2 wood?) dialed down to 12.5*, but was losing a bit more distance than I'd like. I found a Big Bertha 1.5 Mini, which got a little bit of the distance back, but not as much as I wanted. Went back to full size for awhile with an Epic Flash SZ (yes, I'm a gear ho), and got the distance back, but started having the same old problems with consistency. Then I took a shot on a Taylor Made Original One that I got for a great price on ebay, an
  14. I attached a hinge to the end of my bench, made a mark to line it up on at 60*, and secured a 48" metal ruler to the bench. As Howard mentions above, it may not match some of the OEM measurements, but it's going to be consistent, and just as accurate as a purpose-built ruler for a fraction of the cost (I think the ruler cost about $3 and the hinge about $1).
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