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TheHorse

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  1. Good question. I always found that it was a little tricky to get them perfectly sitting in and straight so I figured a shim guaranteed that.
  2. Now that I have thought about this a little more, each of these were shimmed also. Makes me wonder if the shims had some sort of oil on them or I didn't scuff up the shaft tip enough because the shim didn't slip out the shaft dip did.
  3. Thank you all for the quick responses! Does everyone scuff the inside of the hosel? I've never done that.
  4. Recently build a new set of Maltby TS1 / TS2 / TSW wedges and many of the TS1 / TS2 heads have been loose and/or fell off. I've built a lot of golf clubs and never had this issue so I'm just looking for some ideas as to why? I did use a new epoxy Pro-Fix 5 and 15, but I can't imagine that's the reason. I'm sure I did something wrong, but can't figure it out, could the heads have had a little oil layer that made the bond not very strong? Thanks in advance
  5. So I have been reading the many threads about MOI builds, shaft weight progression charts, etc. Thank you @Howard_Jones. I just re-shafted my irons with Dynamic Gold AMT/White X100, +1/2" and my 7 iron came out to be around D5. I love the swingweight of the iron set now. My question comes into what shaft weight should I play for my Driver, which I don't want to be more that 45" and my 2H which is like 41.75". The longer club length for my irons leads to higher swingweights, which I love. However, to get the swingweights up on they Hybrids (KBS prototype hybrid 85) / Driver (Proforce V2 6FS), it feels like I needed to add a bunch of head weight. Is that a sign I need to get heavier shafts? In this case, is total club weight a better way to track progression from irons / hybrids / woods? Thanks in advance!
  6. I'm putting together a new driver and am super intrigued by the Xcaliber HBL60. Does anyone play it or have experience with it? I think I'm between the S and TS flex and am curious as to what a comparable shaft from another manufacture would be. Seems like the Pro T6* would be similar to a Hzrdous Black or something like that, which I have hit. Not sure about the HBL60. With the lack of dealers in CO, I feel like I need to make an educated guess, so just looking for info.
  7. @Howard_Jones A couple quick questions, I'm going through and making a spreadsheet to generate tables like yours. 1) If I calculate the example you gave (0207 Grams x (113.34 cm x 113.34 cm) = 2559 Grams Cm2 or MOI Points), I get 2659112.809. I'm assuming the 2559 in your example is just a typo and the number is actually 2659, but am curious why you divide by 1000? Wouldn't that make the units kg CM2? I know it probably doesn't matter, just looking for understanding. Thanks
  8. Is it common to tip a driver shaft a full inch? Are you doing this for stiffness or due to the adapter?
  9. @Popeye64 You have me convinced to give it a go. I have been a big fan of Maltby equipment for the last few years and just put together a set of PTMs for this upcoming year. Here is my question. I have never been fit for a driver, but want to get as close as possible. If I was fit for a SIM driver, would you say that the shaft that works in that driver would also work in the Tour TC? I live in Colorado, but am not aware of anywhere I could hit this driver ahead of time.
  10. Thanks Guys, any easy way to trim to a lesser weight?
  11. I pulled some of these out of some KBS Tour shafts, but have never seen them before. I'm curious as to what they are made of, want do double check they aren't lead. Also wondering where you could buy some?
  12. Is there any concern with moving the sweet spot by removing 10 grams of weight?
  13. Do you just use a drill press to carve out some weight in the hosel? If not, what other good way is there to remove weight?
  14. When you said you have played .5" gapping MOI Matched sets for years, were those with AMT shafts or standard taper tips?
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