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  1. Since I was dogging Fairway Jockey, I thought is was fair to come back and post that my Ping Hybrid came in the mail today 3.5 weeks after I ordered it. Which is not bad for Ping at the moment. The odd thing was they never emailed to update the status of my order.
  2. I have a Ping G410 hybrid 3 on order, but I ordered it from a builder to get an X shaft, and they are taking their sweet time with it. I have gotten so spoiled by eBay and Golf Galaxy I failed to read the fine print on Fairway Jockey's fulfillment policy: They added that Ping part after I submitted my order on 24 August. I'm looking at this as a Par 5 approach stick, not for the tee. Generally hybrids don't agree with me, and seem to exaggerate my miss - either left or right. Which is why I went with DIs in the first place. But I am totally enamor
  3. There is only one club in my bag that was there a year ago - a Epic Flash SZ 3W with a Hzrdus Yellow shaft. Uneasy rests the head that wears the crown....
  4. I've been playing a Srixon U65 18* that I hit 220-235. I can hit it further, but high spin kills it. The Miyazaki Stiff shaft has too much flex, and when I try to really turn on one, it is a hook machine. I recently got a TM TP UDI 2 iron with a C-Taper Lite 110 S that matches my irons. It is 2 in shorter than the Srixon and goes about the same distance, but with a lower spin, and lower trajectory. Carry is 220-225, but it will roll out further than the Srixon if the fairways are dry. The thing is that I really don't want it to go any further, as I use it on dogleg Pa
  5. As a project, I'm trying to build some clubs that are MOI matched. I'm trying out graphite to deal with some arthritis, and thought it would be fun to give club-building a shot, since there is not a club builder in my immediate vicinity. After tons of reading, I have pieced together this build sheet, using the components I have, and Tutelman's MOI and SW equations I've found online. I got some cheap Aerotech Steelfiber 110 shaft pulls, and decided to use those, along with the Titleist CB heads I already have. I think I've account for everything, recognizing
  6. As a project, I'm trying to build some clubs that are MOI matched. I'm trying out graphite to deal with some arthritis, and thought it would be fun to give club-building a shot, since there is not a club builder in my immediate vicinity. After tons of reading, I have pieced together this build sheet, using the components I have, and Tutelman's MOI and SW equations I've found online. I got some cheap Aerotech Steelfiber 110 shaft pulls, and decided to use those, along with the Titleist CB heads I already have. I think I've account for everything, recognizing
  7. True, but my "average" variance with the Hogan is 6.5 yards. With the CB it is 3.5, and with the MB it is 4.8. The dispersion there is not bad, it just isn't as good for me. With someone with a different AoA and less clubhead speed, the results could be very different. The Hogan is a great iron -- it just has more dispersion with my swing than the CB. And the data suggests it is about spin. I disagree with driveandputtmachine that mishits can't outfly well struck shots -- at least when you are talking about lofts at 7i and higher. We've all skulled approaches. And on
  8. It is about spin. I'm rotating three sets right now: 718 MBs, 718 CBs, and Hogan PTx. None are really GI, though the Hogans are the closest. The Hogans do the best job of retaining ball speed on mishits. The CBs do the best job of consistent spin across the face -- and that is the difference for me. With a CB 7 iron, I am going to get 6500-7000 rpm and 160-165 on everything except a complete chunk. On a slight mishit, I lose both ballspeed and spin - so I retain decent carry distance. With the PTx, I get 6300-6500 and 167-170 most of the time, but occasionally get 4500 -- loosing
  9. I cracked an Epic SZ at the 23 month mark, and they replaced it with an Epic Flash -- without a hassle. But that was going through the dealer that fitted me. If you have a high swing speed and practice a lot, I would be cautious about buying a used Callaway just to save $100. Probably true of TM as well, but I only have personal experience with Callaway.
  10. The ferrule is slipping -- probably due to thermal expansion. The tip is very likely not moving.
  11. Grip is a pretty simple thing to adjust without messing with everything else. Should open the face a bit, reduce sidespin, produce a little more backspin. Higher, straighter, maybe a little loss of distance.
  12. With your club face that closed to your swing path, you are forced to have the toe down -- giving that dynamic lie. How strong is your grip?
  13. If I am reading it right, you club face is slightly closed to target line, but your swing path is 3.6 in to out. Which means your club face is over 4* closed to your swing plane -- which is going to start the ball right and then hook left.
  14. My handcrafted Hzrdus has done the same thing. I had it fixed, and it did it again. I've had several other factory clubs see ferrule separation. Never any issue with performance. I think temperature fluctuation here in Texas probably contributes.
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