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lke90

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  • Handicap
    5.8
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    Italy

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  1. the major concern about choking down on the grip is how much he will have to go down and if he can handle well the weight of the new clubs. I've been there 18 years ago with a longer set than I should have and I still remember that the tip of the grip was touching my belly at the impact sometimes, quite annoying
  2. A long time ago, in 2005, i had the chance to try a counterfeit golf driver: a callaway big bertha 454 and compare it with my original callaway driver, same model. it was a terrible copy, you could have tell just watching at it and the performance and the feeling were just a joke, losing a lot of distance . Fast forward to 2020, I had the chance to try fake taylormade p7tw, compared side by side with my same retail club, same shaft.. cosmetically they are identical I hit some shot and the overall feeling is good, there is no suspect of counterfeit club and no differences,
  3. > @"robert horneman" said: > Neck cracks are an easy fix if you know how to remove the head. Clean and abrade the shaft. Clean the hosel. > Plug the tip of the shaft, I use a piece of dowel. Apply epoxy to the shaft and hosel. Push pull and twist the shaft in place. Let it dry and apply whipping. If the head has a back screw, that has to be removed.Cover the back screw hole with a piece of tape when installing the shaft. > Whipping itself will not hold the hosel together. I removed heads from modern irons but never tried with wood, I guess heatgun is not appropriate in this
  4. > @dcopp7 said: > lexol or Meguiars leather care will work on the grips. Boiled linseed oil is good for the heads Thanks! I tried on a couple of them and The oils made great work for both wood and leather! I read somewhere that using oils on head may increase the probability to crack it, what’s your experience? Also, unwhipping the neck showed the crack in all it’s greatness.. can I do some epoxying without removing the head? Or I will break it even more when put in play?
  5. Hello everyone, it has been a while since my last post here, meanwhile, the collection has growned and a lot of 31 clubs from 1935/1940 (some pyratone, some steel) has been bought on ebay for 10£ (+31$ for shipping in Italy, sigh)! now, most of them are in bad conditions and they smell like vintage mining pickaxe. on the non playable ones I'd like to try some restoring, but I don't know from where to start.. the ultimate goal would be to resurrect them to be playable again. I don't think there are any collectibles items. - Is oil ok for dried wood on a golf club? - what can I use for li
  6. A lot of memories and very good info in this thread! Thanks guys
  7. Fixed it for you, Birly :) Frequency Matched Golden Rams would be a lovely choice for a 1990 set. In terms of irons, aside from my obvious Ram mention, I'd probably think about a set of the late 80s Wilson Staff Fluid Feels or the Muirfields/Muirfield 20ths.... hey, Ram Laser forged CBs! There's a thought, they came out in 1990. For woods, it's not yet Big Bertha time, so I'd probably stick with persimmons: Ram, Mac 80s reissues, or some lovely Clevelands. A random thought just before I hit the Post button... late 80s would be an awesome time to look at Spalding Tour Edition "bird
  8. very nice! I think I have a 3 and a 5 wood like yours somewhere in the garage! they will be put into play soon!
  9. good point, my other bags other than modern (taylormade Speedblade) are: - 1930 circa pyratone shaft clubs (blades) mixed maker with 1960 circa ben hogan persimmon woods (2,4) and orlimar handmade persimmon driver (unknown year) - 1980 circa ben hogan apex II blades with laminated woods (wilson, titleist, hogan) plus I kept every single set since I began playing, maxfly revolution black (1999), dunlop pro02 (2002) taylormade rac mb (2005) BH Grind are very good looking but since I already have one set of hogan I would look to other brands ping eye 2 looks quite game improvement, I would g
  10. Hello everyone! I've read somewhere about making a bag from your bith year and I really liked the idea I have already had some useful tips on this forums about my other(s) vintage bags and since most of you were probably already playing golf in 1990 that's my question: what would my bag was like with the clubs available at the date of july 22nd, 1990? photos or catalogues from the year would be great ps: there's a witb from 90's major champions but it starts from '92 my years range is more '87-'90
  11. I'm impressed! how did you know that!? :lol: .. when you dream about starting your own brand club factory
  12. you will love them, bought them one month ago! I've read somewere these are referred as the best iron ever made and I have to say they really are!
  13. had a very nice session today at the range.. modern club and some nice classic woods back home I decided to cut the old slippery grip from the Titleist acushnet 3w to put a new grip.. I also cut a smile in my left index finger and went to E.R to get 1 juncture point.. no golf for next 7 days (and I have all the week off work for holidays) for golf I went pretty deep under my skin this time
  14. Hello everyone! I've the following dilemma, I've been fitted 2 years ago, the clubfitter cut half inch from my irons to adjust the lie according to my height (175cm / 5'9") since then I started studying how to measure swing weight, loft lie and got a lot of clubfitting/making info on this forum.. now, after trying an old set of irons (ben hogan apex II) for a couple of rounds I realized my modern set isn't working for me.. I measured both old and modern irons and came up to light that the apex II are D3 swing weight, mine are between c8/c9 when the fitter cut that half inch didn't do anything
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