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  1. The S+ series was Mitsubishi's "made for" series. The B series is the real-deal aftermarket blue profile (3rd generation I believe). It will feel more stable than the S+, even though both are "blue" profile shafts. @mcounci2listed the more current aftermarket blue profile shafts from Mitsubishi: Diamana BF and ZF(4th gen - the ZF will be slightly stiffer at the same weight), Diamana TB (5th gen), Tensei Pro Blue are your starting points. You could also check out Graphite Design. The DI is supposed to be very close to the Diamana blue profile. IZ, VR, TB and HD are
  2. @Paddy_2_Iron, I'd start with the above. Maybe add TM to this list. All of these make a good hybrid that should meet your needs.
  3. For years a 19* hybrid was my go-to club for tee shots, before I learned to hit a driver correctly. Then it became my alternate for tighter holes or where I had to stay <250 due to the hole layout. I still game a 19* 818H2 that gets a lot of play both off the tee and into par-5s. Modern hybrids have adjustable hosels, so you can flatten the lie angle and help manage the left miss (the most common complaint with hybrids). Think of a 19* hybrid as somewhere between a 2-3 iron. Get fitted for a good shaft. You won't look back.
  4. If your typical miss is low and left, my first thought is that you need a stiffer (or heavier) shaft, or a profile with less hinge (i.e. Diamana "white" instead of "blue"). Your signature shows a Smoke Blue in X-Stiff, but you don't mention if that's a 60-series or a 70-series. Its probably worthwhile to pay for a driver fitting to see what they would fit you for. At your SS I'd bet they put you in a 70X, so if the current shaft is a 60X that might explain the low/left miss.
  5. I have a Mizuno MP-18 Fli-Hi 16.5* that goes in the bag during the winter, when the wind in FL picks up. It's primarily used on tee shots where I'm looking for something low with good roll. It's pretty forgiving and I can get it up in the air if I want, but I think it will meet your needs quite well. I tend to replace it with a fairway wood in the summer/fall, when rain season softens the courses and I need more carry and less roll.
  6. I gamed Mizuno for almost 20 years. MX-23 > JPX 825 Pro > MP 54. The 23s are at my buddy's house up north, and the 825s at my parent's house, so I don't have to travel with my sticks. The 54s are my current backups. And I'll never get rid of the MP-32s in my garage. I agree with the observations on sound, vibration and feel. I think Mizuno was years ahead of anyone else on that logic. Did not like the 850 Forged at all, or any later models with Boron. Same goes with (most of) the TI-version irons (i.e MP15). The exception there w
  7. I put a Yururi Raw Gekku in the bag a few months ago, with a Nippon 125 Wedge shaft. The closest shop to me is a Dick's Sports, and I've gotten to know the head golf guy there over the years. I bought the head off the 'bay, ordered the shaft through him, and he assembled the club. We often talk about specs and other stuff while I'm there, so I'm guessing he had no issues putting the Nippon in the head b/c he probably would have said something to me.
  8. I agree with @03trdblack. I'd be looking at the TP first. The GP is probably next on the list. Stiff tip (probably the stiffest tip in the GD lineup) but mid is less stiff than either the tip or butt, resulting in some hinge and kick. VR is another possibility. On paper, the tip is not quite as stiff as the DI, which should lead to a higher launch. But GD lists the DI as a high-launch shaft and the VR as a mid/hi. Launch from highest to lowest (among those four): DI > VR > TP > GP
  9. They look similar to the CB-1008, and the Epon AF-Tour CB. Sweet sticks. Let us know how they feel once you get them.
  10. That was my experience. I had good results with the Smoke Black in multiple heads (TS3/TS4/917D2). The shaft was pretty stable with predictable ball flight. But at impact it felt like shattering glass. Diamana ('ahina and DF) and Graphite Design (GP, XC) both felt better. Based on this thread, maybe I should check out the RDX Black.
  11. @Noodler, as a long-time Mizuno gamer (and having hit my buddy's Miuras) I would agree with your assessment. Mizuno on the softer side, Miura more solid. Flushing a Mizuno pure has almost no feel at impact, almost like you were taking a practice swing. My buddy's Miura wedges felt solid, but the feel was addicting and I wanted to keep hitting them. The PR-202s feel like they are softer than the Miura but not as much as the Mizuno. Like ringing a proper church bell that's been tuned for a very specific musical note. When struck well, the feedback rings out like that bell - e
  12. Completely agree with all of this. I'm a Data Scientist by trade. I wondered (while watching TXG's video) how much you would have to loft up/down to get a sufficiently significant c.g. movement to really affect the outcome (assuming a properly-conducted test using an Iron Byron etc). And then wondered about the amount of data I'd want to be comfortable with any conclusions I might come up with....
  13. I have not. I was tracking one on BST but decided not to pull the trigger. I have a DF, and Graphite Design GP/XC, all of which I enjoy gaming. But every time I put that 'ahina back in the bag I wonder why I game anything else...
  14. Maybe this will kick the 'ahina out of the bag...
  15. @Stuart_G, I've seen some content (I believe TXG tested this theory) that suggests lofting down = impact slightly higher up on the face (and possibly lower spin), where lofting up = impact lower on the face (and possibly higher spin). Thoughts?
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